the wire loom was red and i wanted it black...
Chaos's Christmas BuildUp
- Thread starter TiiM iiS l3eAsT
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im not curious why u painted the wire loom, thats a good reason, by the way. Just curious why in the world you have wire loom wrapped around the throttle cable?
lol honestly no clue.....i had left over wire loom and so i put it there lol....ill probably be taking it off lol....
notched the girdle and block tonight:
b4 block:
the tool i used:
the block after:
girdle after:
b4 block:
the tool i used:
the block after:
girdle after:
ill be getting the rods and pistons back on monday.....now i just have to wait for the head to be done.....
then i still have to order a new clutch(lookin at a stage 3 ebay clutch and chromoly 8lb flywheel) and a 2.5 Map Sensor
then im still waiting on my ecu to come back from a friend whos putting in a chip for it (running BRE) basemapped for 20psi but im only running 15......
also waiting on my topmount hf adapter piece ill be using
then i still have to order a new clutch(lookin at a stage 3 ebay clutch and chromoly 8lb flywheel) and a 2.5 Map Sensor
then im still waiting on my ecu to come back from a friend whos putting in a chip for it (running BRE) basemapped for 20psi but im only running 15......
also waiting on my topmount hf adapter piece ill be using
I'm not even sure you had to notch your girdle. I actually think that was a bad idea by creating a weak point for it to fail. The reason being that I had a built y8 in my car at one time and I only to notch the block to get the eagle h beams to fit. I didn't even contemplate cutting the girdle b/c I assembled the motor to see what they would hit, marked what needed gone, and then notched it. There was no need to notch the girdle and that may come back to haunt you, unless a zc has a way bigger girdle than a y8 which I highly doubt.
it doesnt matter.....all those sections in the girldle are doing is holding the "main caps" in.....the parts i notched arent that big of a deal.....im not worried about it....
took off the 3 bottom decals on the front window:
I'm going out on a limb to say that you didn't think about notching the girdle, and you don't care about it cracking, but what do you think is going to crack after the ground areas of the girdle. I would have to think that all that vibration would make your aluminum oil delivery system to the main bearings would be the next thing to go. I mean, there is a lot of vibration and forces going on inside of a motor and aluminum parts having half of their strength taken away. Imagine taking half the blocks thickness away....hmmm... there is a reason it is so thick. I think that if your oil delivery tube breaks, you are going to lose a lot of oil pressure, and your entire engine will be a big chunk of garbage, so hopefully it won't give, but there is a chance that it will especially with all the force you are going to be applying to it.
now why would you do that???
Honda designed the motor to run with like 90whp stock. This guy plans on putting 15 pounds of pressure, and he chooses to make the block weaker.
what do you have to notch it for anyway?
i have another girdle laying around from my old motor.....ill just redo it if its that big of a deal lol.....
i had to notch it to clear the eagle h beam rods/bolts
the car looks much better now without so many decals on the front window.....i thought maybe id like it but nah.....it looks better with only 2 on the front and 2 on the back.....
i had to notch it to clear the eagle h beam rods/bolts
the car looks much better now without so many decals on the front window.....i thought maybe id like it but nah.....it looks better with only 2 on the front and 2 on the back.....
You don't have to notch the girdle to get h beams to clear... at least you don't on a y8 and I had them in it. Only the bottoms of the cylinder walls have to be notched. And as for engine building, just think of swapping main caps between motors...you can't. They are line drilled at the factory and if they are 1 thousandth off, it will bind the crank and crack the bearings meaning not good. But for the road, YOU CANNOT USE THE MAIN CAPS OFF ANOTHER MOTOR.
o well i was told on many other sites that the girdle will be fine.....you guys have your own opinions as do i.....
http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41675
http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=41675
They aren't opinions. It is a fact that the engine was line bored at one time. Why not mix up the main caps in a motor. Because you CAN'T. Call any mechanic in town and they will tell you this.The only way you could swap the main caps is to put them on there and check the line bore to see if it is even 1 thousandth out, if so it is useless unless you overbore the mains to make the outside bore larger. There are a few companies that make oversized outer diameter bearings. These d16 people are idiots to say that you can just swap out main caps and you can take that s**t to the bank. I mean really, they all have d16's and like it.
i wasnt talkin about switching them up....calm down lol
i was just talking about that the girdle i just grinded will still work fine....
i was just talking about that the girdle i just grinded will still work fine....
i never said it wouldn't work. people do crazy things all the time that i wouldn't do. Some people have sleeved their block with JB-Weld mixed with Salt. But there is no denying that you are creating a weak point in a powerful engine (pushing its limits for sure) on a very important part...
Just think about it, don't let us convince you one way, but definately don't let those guys convince you either....just THINK about it.
WTF................................. JB Weld mixed with salt....................holy s**t. Who thinks up this s**t. and as for the girdle, it may break and it may not.
yea i guess we'll just have to find out....once i take it to my builder ill see what he says....thanks guys
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