1990 honda civic SI hatchback.

[DukeZukeM]

Hello there, I am new to this forum.My name is matt, i am looking a members who can help me more information and solved problem. I ljust got 90 civic si hatchback about four weeks ago. but its have low ides after warmed up. for example when i start car running so good. in around 10 to 25 min start low ides when you drive car effect low rpm,speed,etc. do you have idea what effect? I've cleaning all throttle body and idle air control. what else?

Do i need get new parts of throttle body or iac?


here my picture.

1.6L intake-PGM-FI

 

[DukeZukeM]

This forums aren't useful helpful????? " fml

 

[lethal6]

This forums aren't useful helpful????? " fml

This forum is very helpful, but to be helpful we have to understand your post. Your first post is very hard to understand. Please read over it very carefully and try again. As of right now, it makes no sense.

By the way this isn't a chat help forum where people sit in waiting for someone to ask a question. Our members have lives and will answer your question when they have time. If you don't have time to wait, I suggest taking the car to a mechanic.

 

[HeX]

Its obvious that English is not your first language. If you cannot clearly explain your problem then we cannot help you. Go to a mechanic or find a friend who knows English to help explain your problem.

 

[DukeZukeM]

Well I have problem with low idles after warmed up. What is cause problem?

 

[lethal6]

Well I have problem with low idles after warmed up. What is cause problem?

It could be a bunch of different things. Take it to a mechanic, it's obvious that it is going to be a nightmare to help here with the level of communication.

What you are asking is the equivalent of asking why your car doesn't start. There are too many factors. No one is going to sit here and guess. It's a waste of time. We don't even know what you have done to troubleshoot up to this point. Your first post is impossible to decipher and your next one comes in with something so vague, it's almost laughable.

First off, you didn't follow this simple rule we have posted right at the top in reference to making a new thread: Thread Makers: Thread titles must summarize the technical question or problem, and the first post must include the year, trim, and any mods for your Civic.

We have no clue what motor you are working with.

I'm tapping out. Have fun guys.

 

[XpL0d3r]

lol. I deal with language barriers every day at work. This is nothing, and though little information is provided, I understood the gist of what the OP was saying.

OP, first, if your CEL is on, pull the code. If not -- Since you've cleaned the IACV and TB, check the FITV, assuming you still have the original motor.

With the car warmed up (fan kicked on) and idle, pull the intake off. Inside the TB, the bottom hole leads to the FITV. Cover it with your finger. If there's a noticeable difference, replace the FITV. You should see just about 0 difference when plugging that hole. If you feel a VERY slight suction, don't worry.

Assuming that's all good, and the issue still persists when everything is back together, try adjusting the idle screw. While the engine is running, disconnect the IACV again, and adjust the screw until the car is at 800rpm. Turn off the car, disconnect the battery (you'll get a CEL, so disconnecting the battery for a few will eliminate it), reconnect it, and turn the car on. It should be idling where you need it, around 800rpm.

If the idle fluctuates up and down at all, you probably have a vacuum leak.

If you still have a low idle, it's possible that your valves may need a slight adjustment.

 

[HeX]

DukeZukem, consider yourself lucky that XpL0d3r took them time to explain in modest detail a potential fix IF a low IDLE (not ides) is the lone problem. In the future, make a better effort to explain yourself clearly if you want more people to try to help you.

 

[DukeZukeM]

Thanks i will try out this weekend. I will Come baxk here to let Know It worK or not. Sorry stupid phone with aautoword

lol. I deal with language barriers every day at work. This is nothing, and though little information is provided, I understood the gist of what the OP was saying.

OP, first, if your CEL is on, pull the code. If not -- Since you've cleaned the IACV and TB, check the FITV, assuming you still have the original motor.

With the car warmed up (fan kicked on) and idle, pull the intake off. Inside the TB, the bottom hole leads to the FITV. Cover it with your finger. If there's a noticeable difference, replace the FITV. You should see just about 0 difference when plugging that hole. If you feel a VERY slight suction, don't worry.

Assuming that's all good, and the issue still persists when everything is back together, try adjusting the idle screw. While the engine is running, disconnect the IACV again, and adjust the screw until the car is at 800rpm. Turn off the car, disconnect the battery (you'll get a CEL, so disconnecting the battery for a few will eliminate it), reconnect it, and turn the car on. It should be idling where you need it, around 800rpm.

If the idle fluctuates up and down at all, you probably have a vacuum leak.

If you still have a low idle, it's possible that your valves may need a slight adjustment.

 

[DukeZukeM]

hello there back.

I am about to buy used engine. willt his d16a ECU obd0 work with sawp b16 obd0 or obd1???

will b18c gsr fit obd0 from d16 too?

or do i have to stay D serials buy d16 zc DOHC??? will fit d16 tranny?


helppp me thanks..

 

[Harv_D_Johnson]

A d series ecu only runs a d series. You need the ecu for the motor your buying. Ex. B18c requires an ecu that is tuned to a b18c


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[lethal6]

Why are you buying an engine? Instead of finding and fixing the problem, you are going to replace the whole thing? Or are you trying to upgrade to a bigger motor?

If you are swapping to a B SERIES you need b series stuff.

 

[DukeZukeM]

A d series ecu only runs a d series. You need the ecu for the motor your buying. Ex. B18c requires an ecu that is tuned to a b18c


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if i stay with D series will run with any D ECU.

If i buy b16 or b18 i need have ECU/wire harness come with?

Why are you buying an engine? Instead of finding and fixing the problem, you are going to replace the whole thing? Or are you trying to upgrade to a bigger motor?

If you are swapping to a B SERIES you need b series stuff.

I've working on manfoild all sloved. then still problem, i check catback muffler no problem, so I took comprassion test found out that i have coolant leak into exhaust. so i took head gasket there was huge cracked on block.

 

[SpeedTechnik]

if i stay with D series will run with any D ECU.

If i buy b16 or b18 i need have ECU/wire harness come with?

Converting your EF from D to B can be simple, or complex. It will all depend on your automotive experience and understanding as well as your budget.

Your engine obviously needs an extensive overhaul. At this point, it would be better to buy a replacement. Albeit used or new, its up to you. It will be easier, both mechanically and financially, if you decided to replace this engine with another stock engine.

As far as your ecu goes, it will safely work for the d series of your model year. This means that if you intend to swap in a newer d series engine, such as a zc or y8, your particular ecu will not work for a number of reasons ranging from wiring to mapping .I would suggest for you to indulge yourself in some technical articles involving the basics of the engines you're interested in and then move on to articles regarding converting your EF from d series to the engine of your choice.

As for swapping a b series engine into the EF chassis, you will need more than just the engine. To keep everything simple, you will need full wiring and the ecu; as well as axles and mounts, shift linkage, etc; That's if you want things to be simple, strait forward, and OEM; You can always choose to do your own fabrication.

 

[lethal6]

if i stay with D series will run with any D ECU.

If i buy b16 or b18 i need have ECU/wire harness come with?



I've working on manfoild all sloved. then still problem, i check catback muffler no problem, so I took comprassion test found out that i have coolant leak into exhaust. so i took head gasket there was huge cracked on block.

You need more than just the ecu and harness to swap a B series into your car. Your transmission won't work with it either, so you will need a new one that works with a b series.

 

[DukeZukeM]

Converting your EF from D to B can be simple, or complex. It will all depend on your automotive experience and understanding as well as your budget.

Your engine obviously needs an extensive overhaul. At this point, it would be better to buy a replacement. Albeit used or new, its up to you. It will be easier, both mechanically and financially, if you decided to replace this engine with another stock engine.

As far as your ecu goes, it will safely work for the d series of your model year. This means that if you intend to swap in a newer d series engine, such as a zc or y8, your particular ecu will not work for a number of reasons ranging from wiring to mapping .I would suggest for you to indulge yourself in some technical articles involving the basics of the engines you're interested in and then move on to articles regarding converting your EF from d series to the engine of your choice.

As for swapping a b series engine into the EF chassis, you will need more than just the engine. To keep everything simple, you will need full wiring and the ecu; as well as axles and mounts, shift linkage, etc; That's if you want things to be simple, strait forward, and OEM; You can always choose to do your own fabrication.

my Ecu is Pm6, i seem it D serial say will work with d16 zc dohc. i've been looking all over on ebay find right to buy. willt his work with http://www.ebay.com/itm/321618614781

 

[SpeedTechnik]

my Ecu is Pm6, i seem it D serial say will work with d16 zc dohc. i've been looking all over on ebay find right to buy. willt his work with http://www.ebay.com/itm/321618614781

The PM6 ECU is for Sohc d series engines for your model year (88-91). The PM6 cannot manage the JDM Dohc Zc engine correctly due to incorrect mapping. The proper ECU for the Dohc Zc is the PM7, I recommend you buy one if it does not come with your engine.

As for the ZC engine in the eBay listing, I can only recommend that you contact the seller and ask about the engine, warranties, etc; if you intend to buy. Otherwise, I would suggest that you try and get one locally from a shop where you can visually inspect the engine. For either, I recommend you try to get a compression test.

 

[DukeZukeM]

The PM6 ECU is for Sohc d series engines for your model year (88-91). The PM6 cannot manage the JDM Dohc Zc engine correctly due to incorrect mapping. The proper ECU for the Dohc Zc is the PM7, I recommend you buy one if it does not come with your engine.

As for the ZC engine in the eBay listing, I can only recommend that you contact the seller and ask about the engine, warranties, etc; if you intend to buy. Otherwise, I would suggest that you try and get one locally from a shop where you can visually inspect the engine. For either, I recommend you try to get a compression test.

thanks, i understand now,

I am still looking for b16 or b18 obd0 or obd1. also i am curious about H22a will be good on into her car? ofcourse must have ECU,tranny come together engine swap.

 

[SpeedTechnik]

thanks, i understand now,

I am still looking for b16 or b18 obd0 or obd1. also i am curious about H22a will be good on into her car? ofcourse must have ECU,tranny come together engine swap.

Whether it is good or not is personal opinion. Of course, you should expect to do some work with either as they aren't directly plug and play. You will need more than just the transmission, engine and ecu. To begin, you will at least need the harnesses, shift linkage, CV axles,etc. Apart from parts alone, you will need to do some wiring and other upgrades to make either swaps reliable. As previously mentioned, Read and study a few articles (or 'write ups') concerning the swaps of your interest, as they have been covered in depth time and time again. After you have done so and have specific tech questions that haven't been previously addressed and/or documented, then feel free to update your thread (or create a new one within the given forum/topic) with those questions. This way, we will bring 'new' information to the forum, or at least refreshen past information, for others to read. Don't forget to provide links as they'll help us better understand your questions.

 

[DukeZukeM]

Whether it is good or not is personal opinion. Of course, you should expect to do some work with either as they aren't directly plug and play. You will need more than just the transmission, engine and ecu. To begin, you will at least need the harnesses, shift linkage, CV axles,etc. Apart from parts alone, you will need to do some wiring and other upgrades to make either swaps reliable. As previously mentioned, Read and study a few articles (or 'write ups') concerning the swaps of your interest, as they have been covered in depth time and time again. After you have done so and have specific tech questions that haven't been previously addressed and/or documented, then feel free to update your thread (or create a new one within the given forum/topic) with those questions. This way, we will bring 'new' information to the forum, or at least refreshen past information, for others to read. Don't forget to provide links as they'll help us better understand your questions.

What is best website/online to order swap engine with whole kit set or soemthing like that.. i've seem some ebay and jdm's site