MrKilroy
New Member
My car is a 1992 Honda Civic Ex automatic with a d16z6 engine.
I’m going to try to be as detailed as I can.
So a week or two ago the check engine light came on when I started my car. I turned the car off and on again and it was gone. On Monday it came back. This time it did not go away after turning my car on and off again. I pulled the code using a jumper and got two long flashes and two short ones. Code 22 vtec oil pressure switch. I tried to reset the code by removing the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes and the check engine light went away for a one On/Off engine cycle. I tried resetting the code again but the check engine light came on as soon as the engine started. I ordered a new switch and when it came I installed it. Check engine light was still on. I tried resetting the code again. This time I removed the cable for around 10 minutes. Check engine light came on when the engine started. I have also been checking the code after each reset and its always code 22. I tested continuity on both the old and new pressure switch and they both had continuity. Next I measured voltage from terminal 1 on the switch connector and the negative battery terminal with the ignition on. I was supposed to get 12 volts. I was getting 0.6 volts. I then traced the wire back to the ecu and measured the same 0.6 volts at the ecu. The car runs fine its just the check engine light is on all of the time.
At this point I’m 90% sure its the ECU but is there anything else I should check? I’m planning on going to a junkyard to see if I can find an ECU. Will any ecu from a fifth gen civic with the 1.6 and an automatic work? Thanks!
Edit 7/1/2016: I tried testing both switches to see if they would open when the engine is revved up to where vtec is supposed to engage. I revved the engine to 3,000, 4,000, 5,000, and 5,500 RPM. Neither switch opened. I'm assuming this means that the oil pressure isn't sufficient or it could be that both switches are bad.
My new theory is that vtec may be stuck in the engaged mode and that is why the computer immediately knows something is wrong after a reset, and maybe it would explain why there isn't sufficient pressure at the switch. I plan to manually engage vtec and listen for a change in idle. If the idle doesn't change I would assume I'm correct or the vtec solenoid is bad.
Edit 7/2/2017: I've completed the test and I do not believe vtec engaged. The engine did not sound different and the idle did not change. I did hear the solenoid click. Now I'm going to remove the solenoid and inspect / clean the screens.
I’m going to try to be as detailed as I can.
So a week or two ago the check engine light came on when I started my car. I turned the car off and on again and it was gone. On Monday it came back. This time it did not go away after turning my car on and off again. I pulled the code using a jumper and got two long flashes and two short ones. Code 22 vtec oil pressure switch. I tried to reset the code by removing the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes and the check engine light went away for a one On/Off engine cycle. I tried resetting the code again but the check engine light came on as soon as the engine started. I ordered a new switch and when it came I installed it. Check engine light was still on. I tried resetting the code again. This time I removed the cable for around 10 minutes. Check engine light came on when the engine started. I have also been checking the code after each reset and its always code 22. I tested continuity on both the old and new pressure switch and they both had continuity. Next I measured voltage from terminal 1 on the switch connector and the negative battery terminal with the ignition on. I was supposed to get 12 volts. I was getting 0.6 volts. I then traced the wire back to the ecu and measured the same 0.6 volts at the ecu. The car runs fine its just the check engine light is on all of the time.
At this point I’m 90% sure its the ECU but is there anything else I should check? I’m planning on going to a junkyard to see if I can find an ECU. Will any ecu from a fifth gen civic with the 1.6 and an automatic work? Thanks!
Edit 7/1/2016: I tried testing both switches to see if they would open when the engine is revved up to where vtec is supposed to engage. I revved the engine to 3,000, 4,000, 5,000, and 5,500 RPM. Neither switch opened. I'm assuming this means that the oil pressure isn't sufficient or it could be that both switches are bad.
My new theory is that vtec may be stuck in the engaged mode and that is why the computer immediately knows something is wrong after a reset, and maybe it would explain why there isn't sufficient pressure at the switch. I plan to manually engage vtec and listen for a change in idle. If the idle doesn't change I would assume I'm correct or the vtec solenoid is bad.
Edit 7/2/2017: I've completed the test and I do not believe vtec engaged. The engine did not sound different and the idle did not change. I did hear the solenoid click. Now I'm going to remove the solenoid and inspect / clean the screens.
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