1996 y8 mini me swap engine runs but dies when reved at all, cannot drive

[miniME Y8]

I have a 1996 civic hatchback. Ek bodystyle d16y7 motor was the original motor and I had no issues with it before the swap. Both O2 sensors and the caty were fried before but I replaced the sensors and ran a 4-2-1 header with both ports for the sensors. Unplugged the backup radio fuse in the engine and cleared the codes.

I swapped the cylinder head for a 6th gen y8 head, y8 intake manifold, 66mm skunk2 throttle body, y8 fuel rail and injectors. Ngk iridium spark plugs and wires for the ex model, and p2p ecu. Oh the car is manual btw and the IACV bolts onto the mani not the throttle body, and I ended up using a z6 throttle body because I wanted to eliminate any issues with a non calibrated tps on the skunk2 one until the motor ran properly.

After two or three tries I got the timing aligned correctly and all the valves adjusted to spec, pinned the wires for the vtec and altered the iacv from a three wire to a two wire and adjusted the pins as needed for it as well. I have not ran the knick sensor yet but this should not alter the engines ability to run or rev correctly.

Mechanically the motor sounds ok, the idle needs to be adjusted slightly but is a fine tuning issue. When I rev the motor, usually over 3k it stalls out. I have one CEL code and it's code 20 electrical load detector. Fuel and spark to each cylinder have been checked several times and are good there were no vacuum leaks previously and I even ran some new hoses since some weren't the correct lengths

I've been carless for over 2 months now and I need to get this solved before classes start again because it is my only transportation and college isn't cheap so I don't wanna waste that money ha. Any suggestiins, tips, or people who have had similar problems would be greatly appreciated

 

[lethal6]

The knock sensor can most definitely cause it to not run right. Think about it....the ecu reads the knock sensor failure or lack there of and adjusts the fuel and timing to try and compensate. This could cause the engine to stall, stutter, lack power, etc depending on how it readjusts.

 

[miniME Y8]

Ok I guess that makes sense. I'm a pre med student and not a mechanic but this swap seemed easy enough and I've always loved Hondas so I figured why not. I'm stuck in Kansas, possibly the worse state ever, and need to get back to cincy. I have several friends there that have worked with Hondas for years but its hard to diagnose issues over the phone so I appreciate any advice from members. I also just found out that the iacv I have is off of a 96 vtec accord, so the person on eBay had no idea what they had and I didn't run the number because if inexperirnce. Could this also be an issue?? It looks and fits exactly like the civic part but it is a f series not d series component. Which motor at a salvage yard can i pull a knock sensor from?? And any suggestions about code 20? I've retraced all wiring I ran and there was not an issue when it was all stock. Thanks again

 

[miniME Y8]

Questioning is knowledge. So after researching some more, I still have no knock sensor, but I know there is a port for one cause I checked for it before bolting my I/m on the head. Y7 block, and there was no sensor previously but I've also heard that the y8 and y7 blocks are similar or the same so I'm guessing that's why it is there. Anyway to the point, I am not throwing a code for the KS, and all forums I have read said when the sensor is out or missing with the p2p ecu I have ran that a code will be thrown. I have reset the ecu, due to fixing o2 sensors, and even ran it for around an hour to breathe the coolantlines and still no code?? Just the ELD still, is that odd or just me? Like I said I only question because I do not know and I want to learn these things so please don't bash me. I'm a quick learner but I still must be taught, I guess my theory is that if there's no code then why is the ecu compensating for it not being there if it isn't even acknowledging that it isn't missing. I will buy, install, and wire a KS don't think that your words of wisdom were not absorbed I'm just trying to better understand the system

 

[miniME Y8]

I read around more about the ELD code 20, and I'm assuming, like many others, the culprit was a bare wire under the I/M close to 113connector I believe. It had been rubbing against a support so I covered it, heat shrunk the wire, and covered the whole bundle of wires in plastic tubing. I plan to leave the I/M off until I get the KS installed properly, then I will reset the ecu and test my work. I don't kmow if this will fix my car not moving but it is a step in the right direction

 

[96cxgsr]

Make sure you have the right plug going to your throttle position sensor (TPS). I did a similar swap (Y7 to SOHC ZC VTEC, similar to the Z6). I'm using a chipped P28 and when I first started it up it ran fine but as soon as I pushed the gas the rpms just dropped and it died. I looked at the wiring diagram and found out I switched the plugs for my tps and one other sensor. Didn't throw a code or anything. I switched them around and it ran great. Also, I tried plugging in a Y8 ecu and Idont have a knock sensor either. I was able to drive it, it just ran like s**t. Didn't have the problem you were having. Hope this helps.

 

[RonJ]

Hook up a code reader to see whether you pull the KS CEL code. It should be thrown.

Did you solve code 20?