2000 civic D16 problems

ThatSilverEJ8

New Member
-Hey guys, this is my first post and hope I can get mature responses to help me out. My name is Josh and i own a 2000 civic EJ8 vtec.
-The problem with the car that I'm trying fix as of now are messing with the ability to actually drive my car.
What's happening in my best discription is when the car is warmed up and at operating temp it starts to bog. I don't really know how to explain it but for a example when I put it in first and try to start nice and easy the rpms bounce and feels like the car doesnt want to go until I give it enough gas to basically burn the clutch. When I shift it feels like a bog and when I try to go in that gear it'll do the same thing as first and some times it feels like it won't go then start to shake/jutter. Also when I let off the gas it'll bog down and take some throttle to get it going again.
-I have a slight idea but I want a experienced honda guy opinion.
-I think it's either my throttle body, IACV, Throttle sensor, IACV sensor. I don't know but I been told these are the problems with civics. I recently cleaned out my Tb and IACV with carb cleaner and it fixed my recent hunting problem with the rpms.
Thanks
 

XpL0d3r

I had a Civic once.
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@ThatSilverEJ8 Does the engine run fine when the motor is cold? What about if you get to higher RPMs? I ask because I had an identical issue to yours. I never had the CEL pop on. The issue ended up being the primary o2 sensor. It was sending signal to the ECU but was malfunctioning in a way to tell the car to basically run lean an bog down. It never happened when the motor was cold because the o2 sensors are not ready until the car warms up; the a/f ratio is ECU controlled.
 

ThatSilverEJ8

New Member
XpL0d3r said:
@ThatSilverEJ8 Does the engine run fine when the motor is cold? What about if you get to higher RPMs? I ask because I had an identical issue to yours. I never had the CEL pop on. The issue ended up being the primary o2 sensor. It was sending signal to the ECU but was malfunctioning in a way to tell the car to basically run lean an bog down. It never happened when the motor was cold because the o2 sensors are not ready until the car warms up; the a/f ratio is ECU controlled.
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Yes, for a example when I drive to school at 7 am it'll be fine because it'll take longer to get at the warmer temp that starts it. Right when it reaches to a operating temp it'll start to happen. I'd say about 5-10 minutes after leaving school is right when it happens.
 


ThatSilverEJ8

New Member
boofoo said:
Were you able to verify that the previous owner actually did replace the plugs and wires? Sellers may be highly motivated to fib. Inspect the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

Also check whether the CEL works. Some dishonest sellers will disable the CEL to hide problems.
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Yes, the sparks look pretty good and the wires and distributor looks good aswell. Checked that with the owner. And the guy I bought it from was a family owned lot. The car was a father and son project car but didn't go far, plus he has a good record of all the maintenance. I would trust this guy.
Also another reason I didn't scan it is because when I first looked it up people said it won't through codes. But when I get time I'll scan the CEL.
 
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