450 hp B16A

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Sleeper

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Yes, very much. no but I recomend using a blockgaurd, if not then sleeve it.
 


chadroper

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would i end up spending 8k on it like the accord and have to have valves, pistons, retainers, the camshaft, custom made?
 

chadroper

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for the accord engine parts list
B16A head
A20A3 block and crankshaft
eagle h-beam rods
Diamond pistons
Ferria valves and retainers
Ferria valve springs
The B16A head and A20A3 block were machined so the coolant and oil passages would line up. The block is a closed deck cast iron block so sleeving it is not necessary. A bearing cap girdle was fabricated from mild steel. The crankshaft was cryo and heat treated and knife edged and nitrided. The pistons are custom made by Diamond (the set of 4 was $700, after they were coated and shot peened).
The eagle rods were also shot peened (they are an existing part that is used in the LS/VTEC engines)
the valves and retainers are custom made parts from Ferria. The intake valves are sodium filled stainless steel. They have a heat reflective coating on the face and a nitride coating on the stem. The exhaust valves are sodium filled inconel and have the same coatings. They are also undercut very slightly. The combustion chamber is also coated with a ceramic that reflects heat. The engine develops 447hp at the wheels at 7,000 rpm and 371 lb-ft@5,700 rpm. And do not do this because it takes about a year to build it and another year to tune it(get it to work properly)
 


Sleeper

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You wont `really need anything custom madefor the B16A, since there is so much aftermarket suport for it
 

nd4sped

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Re sleeving the B16A would be a wise choise since you will be in excess of 8-10 psi trying tomake those kind of figures. 450hp B16A isnt gonna be a weekend project either. Obviously you kow this from your description of your last build.

Though resleeving is gonna be your best bet (smartest choice really) to prevent cylinder flexing that would happen with the stock sleeves becasue of teh open deck. A block gaurd I hear is good up to 15psi on stock sleeves but anyhting higher than that is rearlly pushing it.

Honestly I would resleeve it period since your trying for those kind of figures.

Also for it being a comfortable daily driver I wouldn't imagine so.
 

chadroper

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so as far as withstanding extremely high boost pressure the B16A is not that sturdy? It seems to withstand high rpm operation much better than high boost pressure
 

chadroper

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Would it be less drivable than the 2 liter engine. The 2 liter engine is drivable as a daily driver (not as much as a normal car) but it idle a bit rough and its set at about 1300 rpm. It also chugs 93 octane gas like its going out of style and eats synchonizer gears (I actually have a cardboard box full of transmission parts). The engine is some kind of frankenstein thing and its a mechanics nightmare. There are always little problems, for example coolant leaking out around fittings in the turbocharger housing, gaskets and seals failing in the intake manifold or before the manifold, intercooler problems, ignition problems, etc)
 

chadroper

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Since the B16A has aftermarket support it shouldnt have as many problems? With the accord there is no support of any kind. A few months ago it was detonating and I had a manual for an Apexi computer, the origional manual for the car, about 500 pages of documents from Garrett, and some documentation from Accel. It took me and a local shop (Self's Racing) 2 weeks to fix it. It turns out what was causing it was an imperfection in the ceramic coating on the face of the #2 piston. My favorite is "high oil pressure, low oil temperature"
 

stealthy

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chadroper said:
Would it be less drivable than the 2 liter engine. The 2 liter engine is drivable as a daily driver (not as much as a normal car) but it idle a bit rough and its set at about 1300 rpm. It also chugs 93 octane gas like its going out of style and eats synchonizer gears (I actually have a cardboard box full of transmission parts). The engine is some kind of frankenstein thing and its a mechanics nightmare. There are always little problems, for example coolant leaking out around fittings in the turbocharger housing, gaskets and seals failing in the intake manifold or before the manifold, intercooler problems, ignition problems, etc)
if your having that many problems you def did something wrong, building even a frankenstein motor made to be VERY reliable is VERY feasable if you do it right.
 

CivicKid95

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450 hp is a ton of power and i dont think a stock block could handle that. ive never seen more than probably 225 on an unsleeved or unguarded block.
 

MGLB

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you should send the motor to darton internationl in california get to sleeves they are bullet proof. 500 for sleeves and 500 for labor and machine work and 150-200 dollars for shipping rpund trip from the midwest. they are entire new cylinders with block guard. i got it about 12 months ago and its worth it. the best way to maximize the turbo set uo is the hp you have bofore the boost. the moor hp you have to begin with the less boost you need for 450 hp which will make the car a better daily driver
 

MGLB

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CivicKid95 said:
450 hp is a ton of power and i dont think a stock block could handle that. ive never seen more than probably 225 on an unsleeved or unguarded block.
is that you behind the b***h
 

orfus5

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Yall should probably have seen that one issue of SuperStreet where the got 500hp out of a stock block b16 with only rods and pistons. :shock:

Its all in the tuning
 

Sleeper

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orfus5 said:
Yall should probably have seen that one issue of SuperStreet where the got 500hp out of a stock block b16 with only rods and pistons. :shock:

Its all in the tuning
its all in not bring threads back from a year ago
 
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