95 EX running rich. Bad O2?
- Thread starter kody514
- Start date
The one at the manifold is the upstream and the one after the catalytic is the downstream, as they are both called. The ECU uses both readings to adjust air and fuel ratios. What is prompting you consider changing a sensor?
Also, neither of your O2 sensors will be that expensive unless you had a VX and you should never buy one that only costs $20 because it wont last. Hondas are very particular about these parts so only get the NTK brand, made by NGK. Go on NGKs website to get the NTK part number and search for the correct part.
Also, neither of your O2 sensors will be that expensive unless you had a VX and you should never buy one that only costs $20 because it wont last. Hondas are very particular about these parts so only get the NTK brand, made by NGK. Go on NGKs website to get the NTK part number and search for the correct part.
Dont just assume its the O2 until youve done some inspection.
Are you getting any check-engine codes?
Are you sure youre not misfiring?
Have you inspected the distributor cap, rotor, wires & plugs?
Inspect the fuel pump because its the only way youll have fuel smell inside the car unless you have a serious leak in the engine bay thats causing the smell to creep in through the air vents from the cowl.
Im changing your title again since this is about running rich and not identifying O2 sensors.
Are you getting any check-engine codes?
Are you sure youre not misfiring?
Have you inspected the distributor cap, rotor, wires & plugs?
Inspect the fuel pump because its the only way youll have fuel smell inside the car unless you have a serious leak in the engine bay thats causing the smell to creep in through the air vents from the cowl.
Im changing your title again since this is about running rich and not identifying O2 sensors.
kody514
New Member
Typical tune up stuff is fine i know i need a new upstream o2 sensor i unplugged it and smashed the connector in the hood. Fuel pump is fine its acting like an injector is stuck open. Im running straight pipe no cat or resonator you can smell the unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust.
kody514
New Member
you can close it now if you want. I will pick up a good ngk or denso tomorrow. and a o2 sensor wrench and see if it that makes any difference.MotorMo
Respected
Unplugging the primary ( upstream O2 sensor) should put your car into limp mode, aka base programming. Its a cheap way to see if you remove the O2 sensor input, if there is any difference in the performance of the car. That being said, to reply to your original post, an Air/Fuel sensor tends to be a bit more pricey than an older, 'traditional' Oxygen sensor.
I agree with Hex about going OEM only on the O2 sensor (NTK, aka, NGK). Although cheaper, aftermarket can cause way more problems than they tend to fix. And buying an upstream O2 sensor is kinda a once in a life time replacement kinda thing in a Honda, so its good to do it as best as possible, IMO.
Funny thing about your photo- looks like you are running a D16Z6 with maby D16y7 Exhaust manifold?, or one from a 5th gen CV, or High fuel/ low emission modle?-- If your running the ECU for the D16Z6, then you are only going to need an O2 sensor, not an air/fuel sensor- as this is what the D16z6 engines come from the factory, and is what the ECU is designed to run off of.
Funny tho, they are all, air/fuel ratio sensors....but the difference is in their internal design and structure which gives different levels of out put.
I agree with Hex about going OEM only on the O2 sensor (NTK, aka, NGK). Although cheaper, aftermarket can cause way more problems than they tend to fix. And buying an upstream O2 sensor is kinda a once in a life time replacement kinda thing in a Honda, so its good to do it as best as possible, IMO.
Funny thing about your photo- looks like you are running a D16Z6 with maby D16y7 Exhaust manifold?, or one from a 5th gen CV, or High fuel/ low emission modle?-- If your running the ECU for the D16Z6, then you are only going to need an O2 sensor, not an air/fuel sensor- as this is what the D16z6 engines come from the factory, and is what the ECU is designed to run off of.
Funny tho, they are all, air/fuel ratio sensors....but the difference is in their internal design and structure which gives different levels of out put.
kody514
New Member
I unplugged it and it is running the same without it. Didnt change anything that pic is just one i pulled off google for reference. Went ahead and pulled the plugs today and one was covered in oil. I pulled them a couple weeks ago when it started running bad and they all looked fine swapped out all the plugs today but it is still running way to rich. Gonna throw maybe 250-300$ more at it and if i cant get it running properly im just going to start looking for a new motor. Will a b series or k series motor be ok with a d series tranny?
Nope. Theyre not compatible.
kody514
New Member
I am not willing to dump a bunch of cash on a stock d series with 300k miles on it. I paid 250$ for the car running and driving of course it will have its issues. I have thrown another 400 in parts at it so far trying to fix the issues. with no success I just wish I knew what the problem was so I could stop guessing and wasting money. If it was a boosted b series that had a blown motor I would rebuild it because it would be worth it. but its not boosted or a b series therefore it isn't worth sinking tons of cash into.
kody514
New Member
Will do i will test it tomorrow. Hopefully i dont need to swap if i do i will just sell it and buy another one to swap with and boost it instead. Interior is stained with oil windshield is cracked it has 300k
miles on the body i could find one a couple years newer and nicer shape with half the miles for 2k
miles on the body i could find one a couple years newer and nicer shape with half the miles for 2k