Best budget upgrade for EG civic? need advice

[Ja176337]

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and to owning an EG, previously owned an EP3 with a k20/24 NA setup but got rid of it recently to move onto something cheaper and still as fun.

I was wondering what the best budget EG civic engine upgrade is as it currently has a D15B4 twin carburetor which is good for daily life but boring as it can be.

What's the cost involved in setups such as D16 turbo or K24 turbo?
What do I need to DIY one of these setups (Besides ECU tuning)?

Thanks

 

[Esotericimage]

How bout a K20/24?

 

[XpL0d3r]

to ClubCivic

Read this, though there is no K20 information, but good D/B-series information. If you want a budget build, K24 turbo is out of the question (done properly, anyways). I think it should help you out.

http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/looking-to-do-a-motor-swap-read-me-before-posting.196671/

Personally, I'd go with a B18. These motors are fairly cheap now, won't take nearly as much work as swapping a K20. Then down the road when you have more money, boost it!

 

[Ja176337]

to ClubCivic

Read this, though there is no K20 information, but good D/B-series information. If you want a budget build, K24 turbo is out of the question (done properly, anyways). I think it should help you out.

http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/looking-to-do-a-motor-swap-read-me-before-posting.196671/

Personally, I'd go with a B18. These motors are fairly cheap now, won't take nearly as much work as swapping a K20. Then down the road when you have more money, boost it!

Thanks!
The problem with b18c's in Aus here is that they are like 3.5K just for the motor and loom, whereas a K24 is around 500-800, would a whole KSwap N/A k24 end up being more costly than a b18?

 

[Snailed]

Swap in a non-vtec B-series. They are dirt cheap and bolt right in. I think the k24 your talking about is out of an accord in which case you in for a world of hurt to get it to run. On top of all this you'll have to get the K swap parts and thats a couple on grand.

 

[Ja176337]

Swap in a non-vtec B-series. They are dirt cheap and bolt right in. I think the k24 your talking about is out of an accord in which case you in for a world of hurt to get it to run. On top of all this you'll have to get the K swap parts and thats a couple on grand.

Ok I'll check them out, can they be boosted on say 5-7 psi easily? Do they require alot of engine work?

 

[CHILD]

a NA K24 for you would cost you about as much as a B18C-R swap. The K swap would be expensive with all brand new parts and plug and play bits and pieces, but if you wouldn't swap in a B series engine with all brand new parts, why would you do so with a K series. Coming from a K20/K24 EP3 to a non vtec B18 should still feel like an insanely slow car to you. The older and less powerful the swap, the cheaper it will be, and typically the fun factor follows the same scale.

 

[Ja176337]

Yeah it is definitely a 0/10 on the powerscale in comparison at the moment. It needs a good engine setup asap. Would you say doing a K is as costly and difficult as doing a B series swap0? K24 block only over here is around $600. The supporting parts I believe is what racks up the bill.
My budget by the way folks is around 3.5 - 5k depending on what setup. I'm trying to decipher best bang for buck and reliability.

 

[Esotericimage]

I would research both swaps with parts needed for a turn key set up.

Your budget is manageable for both since the K24 is so cheap waayyy over there.


I would love the torque from a 24 over a B anyday.

 

[CHILD]

The B swap is definitely more simple to swap, but I too would prefer a budget K24 swap over an old B series engine.

With your budget, you can do either one, so it comes down to you choosing the easy swap or the more involved K24 swap.

 

[MyLittleTeg]

If your used to a k series I wouldn't go b18b. Either go back k series or run a b18c. If you swap in a ls motor, you won't be happy with it

 

[Esotericimage]

If your used to a k series I wouldn't go b18b. Either go back k series or run a b18c. If you swap in a ls motor, you won't be happy with it

Well adding a vtec head, with the extra stroke of the LS and it'll be fine.

 

[MyLittleTeg]

Well adding a vtec head, with the extra stroke of the LS and it'll be fine.

I'm not a fan if lsvtec because no oil squirter. I was just going off of what he used to have. He is used to a lot of power with the k series and the ls motor isn't half of what a k series is

 

[mc360]

If b and k swaps are not cheap in your area what's a d16 go for? You can boost a d series on a 3500$ budget easily and crack 220whp which should be able to hang with most k series, problem is if you have to add another grand or so for a d16. You could boost the d15 but you probably want to convert to efi and you would be limited to a max of about 190whp from what I have heard unless you build the bottom end.

 

[CHILD]

220whp which should be able to hang with most k series

the rest was informative but this is just funny. although peak power would be similar to a bolt on K swap, the power curves are way different.

 

[mc360]

the rest was informative but this is just funny. although peak power would be similar to a bolt on K swap, the power curves are way different.

I think this is funny, I'm pretty positive that the only k series that stands a chance against my car is the k20a and k24a2 and being in the cars they naturally come in probably puts them at a weight disadvantage but throw them in a crx or something they would most likely take me.

My car 222whp 179 tq
K20a (07-11 type r) 225hp 159tq
K24a2 (us spec tsx) 205hp 160.5tq

My car has been dynex with those number at the wheels, what kind of loss at the wheels are the k20a and k24a2 dealing with? Also I have small t3 60 trim .42 .48 ar and it spools pretty quick so I'm pretty sure the torque curves are not going to ruin the race

 

[CHILD]

I think this is funny, I'm pretty positive that the only k series that stands a chance against my car is the k20a and k24a2 and being in the cars they naturally come in probably puts them at a weight disadvantage but throw them in a crx or something they would most likely take me.

My car 222whp 179 tq
K20a (07-11 type r) 225hp 159tq
K24a2 (us spec tsx) 205hp 160.5tq

My car has been dynex with those number at the wheels, what kind of loss at the wheels are the k20a and k24a2 dealing with? Also I have small t3 60 trim .42 .48 ar and it spools pretty quick so I'm pretty sure the torque curves are not going to ruin the race

I understand your thinking....but this is a K swap car in question....and the majority of the K swaps with just bolt ons make 220+ easily.

For example, my simple bolt on K24a2 hits 220WHP at 5500 rpm and keeps on climbing. That 246 was at 7000rpm. The power is reached sooner and carried for longer than the smaller single cam turbo. The displacement makes all the difference.

The average K swaps worth mentioning are the K20a2, K20z1, K20z3, K24a2, K24a3, JDM K20a, and budget minded people who are mechanically inclined with K24/K20's....and we haven't even gotten into the much faster transmissions.

Stock Native K cars, that's a whole other story and more on par with your setup if not slower than yours.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying a sohc turbo wouldn't be a fun ride, but it's nothing like a K swapped car

 

[mc360]

here is my dyno for comparison, 179tq at about 6000rpm so im sure it would be close. im probably making a little more power than this now as i have turned up the boost by 2psi and tuned it myself because the tuner did a shitty job oh and that power was at 5000ft elevation so im probably making more when i go down the mountains to sea level.