OK so here's my situation:Just put in a new headunit (see the Sony CDX-F605x Review thread) and it has a separate sub control volume. I only turned it all the way up 1 time and made sure not to turn the main volume very high, just kinda testing things out you know? well that was about a week and a half ago, and today i went to vaccum out my car and the sub was makin funny noises. I popped the trunk and WTF?!?!?!? the foam is torn for about 3-4" around the cone. My amp is only 220 watts cuz i didnt want HUGE boom but because the way my last headunit was, i had the gain all the way up? My sub was a 10" JL Audio W0. The sub is a lil old and it was only a $30 investment off a friend. What do i need to know so i dont do this again when i get my new sub
Blown Sub and amp power
- Thread starter AutoFanatik
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why not just superglue it back together .... on my infinti 10s that i got used the cone seperated from the rubber part on the outside and i just glued it back on and it still slumps good and hasnt started seperating since.
the amp is an alpine MRP T220 so i dont know exactly what the power is on it i wanna say something like 125 RMS
ok because i couldnt understand how i could blow it with that little amount of power. so it's probably not that i was turning the volume up too high, it was just that the sub was old?
k so any suggestions on my next sub? i wanna stay with JL
see there, moneybags?!a100100 said:
13W7 needs optimum 1kW RMS.. 
Think realistically..
Even though a 10W0 is no longer produced, NOS ones can still be had..
Another good choice is MB Quart DWC254.. 175W RMS design puts it within range of your current amp, unless you decide to go all new equipment.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=2114
yea the amp willl remain the same, i was actually thinking about the 10W1v2
Could it be the sub wasn't rated for the frequency? What did you have your low frequency set for? I know some times if the frequency to low, even at low watts, some speakers go to pieces. I would think the JL could withstand a pretty low frequency though.
I think it was just the fact that the sub was old 
maybe not, but i dunno. I'm lookin for a place to buy a new 10W1v2 cuz it falls under that power range. and whats EOL?
maybe not, but i dunno. I'm lookin for a place to buy a new 10W1v2 cuz it falls under that power range. and whats EOL?ahhh thanks qwik. do you have an opinion on the 10W1v2? and any recommendations as far as gain settings on the amp and sub volume settings on the deck?
i think a think turning it up that much and the fact it was old made it crap out. Whatever sub u get next make sure u brake it in first. Start playing it at fair volume, not loud but can hear it fine, then gradually turn it up a lil bit more gradually move up till it distorts and u know how loud u can put it with sounding like crap and not destroying the sub. Breaking in should take a couple weeks and u should be good to go........
first off
YOU CANNOT BLOW A SUB BY UNDER POWERING IT. The 10w1 is a great sub, low cost, effiecent, and doesnt need much air space, i would personally do a 12w1, but lets go with the 10w1. when you put a sub in a sealed enclosure you take away a lil of its power handling(to a point) the smaller the box the less the power handling, unless its in a box that has the recommended air space. the 10 and 12 W1's are rated at the same RMS power 150watts that alpine amp should do you fine. a 10w3v3 is rated at 300watts RMS. either would do fine. as to setting the amp, i would turn you deck to the loudest you listen to it, with the gain all the way down on the amp, and sub controll maybe up a lil bit, and slowly turn up your amp's gain. until you get a little distortion and than turn it down a little. now remember Max excursion on the w1's are .75" both ways, so that means the sub will move a maximun of .375" back and .375" front. once you start excedding that, your going to start hearing a pop come from the sub. and thats not good. ive talked enough for now. so i hope this helps you.