Boosted!! but problems

[iamcivic]

Finally boosted, 19t, type 31 FMIC, Turboxs BOV, Emanage.
Its nice, but was looking for eairler boost. Starts spool at 3000, but full boost is not til 4500 or so. That much lag is not what I thought would happen from what I read.

No CEL, until about 30mins of driving. I was in 5th about 3000 rpms, not in boost and it came on..weird.
I pluged it into the computer and it said I was to lean. When I start it at idle it bogs and almost stalls until I give it gas, and when I take off it bogs and takes a few secs for it to go. But after that its fine.

Bov shutters, so I might have it to tight.

I need to figure out how to tune the A/F on the emanage.

Help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[SeanMc300]

what sort of injectors are you using (size), do you have a fpr?

 

[iamcivic]

stock, it came with 310rc but didnt change because theres not much difference. stock fpr.

You think that might be the problem, that the emanage is set for the 310 injectors? Ive never thought of that.

 

[nd4sped]

Now is a great time to upgrade your FPR and fuel pump if you havent already, along with your ignition system also.

 

[lkailburn]

ya u need to put in those new injectors. but about the fpr and pump.. idk. i know A LOT of turbo guys and everysingle one is on a stock fpr and pump and no one's ever had any problems. sure i'd be nice but 'if it aint broke don't fix it' lol

 

[vandynamics]

GET THOSE INJECTORS IN before you blow your s**t up. bro.

and your stock fuel pump may hold for awhile, but its always nice to have a 255 walbro. thats i what i have and its perfect.

go uberdata and do the s**t right. f**k emanage

also make sure youve set back your ign. timing about 3 degress retard. run the best pump gas you can. one step lower plugs. and do you have a wideband installed? you can see what your running that way.

 

[iamcivic]

GET THOSE INJECTORS IN before you blow your s**t up. bro.

and your stock fuel pump may hold for awhile, but its always nice to have a 255 walbro. thats i what i have and its perfect.

go uberdata and do the s**t right. f**k emanage

also make sure youve set back your ign. timing about 3 degress retard. run the best pump gas you can. one step lower plugs. and do you have a wideband installed? you can see what your running that way.

I startd to put the injectors in, but they looked shorter than the stock ones, so I didnt think they would seal right. Does it matter how short they are?

After I get everything right I'll get a new FPR and pump. but now I have biger problems.

How do you set the ignition timming back? I just filled up on premium. Also yesterday I checked my oil and i was a little over the top hole on the dipstick. Today I drove about 40 miles or so and checked it again when I got home. Its was a little below the bottom hole, so Im leaking oil somewhere.\

I didnt know it would be this much of a pain to turbo.

 

[nd4sped]

Length shouldnt really affect anything. just as long as it seals properly. Im sure if they came with your kit for your engine then its not a problem.

Before you move your distributor use a protractor or something with degrees marked on it and mark on the distributor +5/-5 degrees and a dash on the opposite side. This way your degrees are accurate.
I cant remember exactly but I think if you turn the ditributor to the left it will retard the timing and to the right is advance. Im almost positive thats right.

Also is this the first time you checked your oil after installing the turbo. Did you add more oil after the install. Because your capicaity will go up Also check your oil when the engine is warm.

TO check for external leaks, pay attention to all surfaces while the engine is warming up. Because leaks can form while it scold but stop when its warm & vica versa. Also watch you rexhaust. If there is burning (blueish smoke). There are a few options to where its coming from.

Turbo shaft, head gasket & valve guides. Those are a few off teh top of my head.

Thats about all I can think of right now. ill check bck inteh morning to read your reply.

 

[iamcivic]

Length shouldnt really affect anything. just as long as it seals properly. Im sure if they came with your kit for your engine then its not a problem.

Before you move your distributor use a protractor or something with degrees marked on it and mark on the distributor +5/-5 degrees and a dash on the opposite side. This way your degrees are accurate.
I cant remember exactly but I think if you turn the ditributor to the left it will retard the timing and to the right is advance. Im almost positive thats right.

Also is this the first time you checked your oil after installing the turbo. Did you add more oil after the install. Because your capicaity will go up Also check your oil when the engine is warm.

TO check for external leaks, pay attention to all surfaces while the engine is warming up. Because leaks can form while it scold but stop when its warm & vica versa. Also watch you rexhaust. If there is burning (blueish smoke). There are a few options to where its coming from.

Turbo shaft, head gasket & valve guides. Those are a few off teh top of my head.

Thats about all I can think of right now. ill check bck inteh morning to read your reply.

Ill try the injectors, but the emanage came with the kit also, but the instructions it came with wasnt even for the my ECU.

What does timming the ignition do? I have never heard of that.

No I checked the oil almost every time I stopped, since I dont have my psi gauge yet. I changed my oil during the install, because I had to tap the oil pan. At the gas station tongiht I saw some sort of buroff comming from the exaust, but I couldnt tell if it had a color. I tried to smell it also, but I coundnt smell anything. It is a major leak somewhere, cause It leaked all my oil out in one night.

Im having to many problems.

 

[Sm0ked0uTCiViC]

does you turbo have floating bearings? Did you hafta run a oil line? If so check both sides of the connection,Where you tapped it at and where it goes into the turbo, I don't see you losing that much oil anywhere alse, A good way to check for oil leaks is get a nice white peice of card board and park your car overnite somwhere at your house on level ground, Put the cardboard under it and let it sit overnite,When you come out in the morning b4 you remove the cardboard take a good look at it and kinda note the loacations of oil spots so it gives you a idea of what side of the engine its on where its at etc etc, also like nd4sped said keep a close eye on your exaust for a few days, Have a buddy of yours rev your car up a little and see what color if any color you are getting out of your tail,Blueish white smoke is oil,Billowy white is coolant,Black is too much gas

 

[EG_CaSe]

Length shouldnt really affect anything. just as long as it seals properly. Im sure if they came with your kit for your engine then its not a problem.

Before you move your distributor use a protractor or something with degrees marked on it and mark on the distributor +5/-5 degrees and a dash on the opposite side. This way your degrees are accurate.
I cant remember exactly but I think if you turn the ditributor to the left it will retard the timing and to the right is advance. Im almost positive thats right.
.

if your infront of the car and you push it back you Advance it, pull it forward you retard it.. thats how i remember it, i love to run my car a little retard it tends to run better on top end, also iamcivic if you advance your timing remember to use good pump gas 93 or better, if you use anything lower your motors gunna start to make funny sounds, i use 94 my car runs good

 

[nd4sped]

What does timming the ignition do? I have never heard of that.

What this is gonna do is allow your iginition to fire earlier (advanced, but you want this in N/A apps, not boost). Retarded ignitions will fire later allowing more compression before it fires.

The ingintion fires anywhere from 10-16 degrees or as much as 20 degrees before TDC of that cylinder. But in our case ours only fires once. So if it dosent ignite then there is no combustion, in turn no power stroke.

That is why its a great idea to upgrade ignition when adding boost. To allow for multiple spark discharge instead of just once.

A good way to check for oil leaks is get a nice white peice of card board and park your car overnite somwhere at your house on level ground, Put the cardboard under it and let it sit overnite,When you come out in the morning b4 you remove the cardboard take a good look at it and kinda note the loacations of oil spots so it gives you a idea of what side of the engine its on where its at etc etc,

A great idea but its not always gonna net you the result you want. Though a leak may form and drip. They most of the time never drip striahgt down from where they form. They tend to have a tendency to move down accross the engine, which ever way is fastest tot eh bottom. So even though a leak my start, for example at the right side fo the valve cover, it may find its way accross to tehg other side of the engine. That is why its always best to find a leak from under the car looking up with a nice light. Using a lift you can follow the leak. Always follow the leak to its highest point.

if your infront of the car and you push it back you Advance it, pull it forward you retard it.. thats how i remember it, i love to run my car a little retard it tends to run better on top end, also iamcivic if you advance your timing remember to use good pump gas 93 or better, if you use anything lower your motors gunna start to make funny sounds, i use 94 my car runs good

Thats correct. I was just thinging of its mechanical operation.

Also advanceing your ignition a few degrees. (Actual figures wont show unless on the dyno). But you will find it better with a advanced ignition when you have a N/A app.

 

[Squintz]

also make sure youve set back your ign. timing about 3 degress retard.

Hey now, no need for name calling.

 

[iamcivic]

What this is gonna do is allow your iginition to fire earlier (advanced, but you want this in N/A apps, not boost). Retarded ignitions will fire later allowing more compression before it fires.

The ingintion fires anywhere from 10-16 degrees or as much as 20 degrees before TDC of that cylinder. But in our case ours only fires once. So if it dosent ignite then there is no combustion, in turn no power stroke.

That is why its a great idea to upgrade ignition when adding boost. To allow for multiple spark discharge instead of just once.

So what kind of difference will I see if I retard it?

And what is causing the lag? My wastegate has a dent in it, like it has been dropped. Would that be the problem?

 

[nd4sped]

So what kind of difference will I see if I retard it?

And what is causing the lag? My wastegate has a dent in it, like it has been dropped. Would that be the problem?

It may have a miniscule difference in performance, but like I siad you might not notice it but your engine will like ti better.

Your wastegate may be damaged. Give it a good visual insteption. The spring or actualor diaphram may have become unset or even damaged. But I dont really see that happing unless it was dropped really hard/high place. Make sure there is no damage to teh wastegate. If ther eis I would replace it.

Also if you havent ever had a compression check you may want to do that also.

 

[iamcivic]

It may have a miniscule difference in performance, but like I siad you might not notice it but your engine will like ti better.

Your wastegate may be damaged. Give it a good visual insteption. The spring or actualor diaphram may have become unset or even damaged. But I dont really see that happing unless it was dropped really hard/high place. Make sure there is no damage to teh wastegate. If ther eis I would replace it.

Also if you havent ever had a compression check you may want to do that also.

K few problems fixed.

No more oil leak, lose return line. BOV is fixed, I finally taped it to the right vaccum hose and it makes the PHSS sound and only shutter when the turbo has barly spooled.
I still didnt get to change the injectors, they are to small and will either fit in the fuel line or the manifold, but not both. Im gonna have to trim it down somehow. WILL IT HURT MY ENGINE TO DRIVE IT DAILY WITHOUT GOING INTO BOOST UNTIL I CAN GET THEM IN????. Im not gonn bother turning the ignition back, because I found out it makes you lose power, and it has a built in retard on its own.
The bracket on my wastegate was bent, holding the wastegate partically open the whole time. I took it off and bent it straight, and now the turbo spools louder and faster. Now I boost by 4000, but still dont see full boost til around 4300. So I dont know what else to do.

 

[lkailburn]

haha yah open wastegate flapper will defiintly lag your spool. good job on fixing the leak and bov. i understand what your saying about the injectors but i've never seen this problem before. who did u say made the injectors?

 

[loud3nergy]

who and where did you get this kit (cause I dont want it. :-p )? Or is it a homemade kit?

 

[stolle]

put those injectors in!!!! the fuel raill has spacers on each mounting stud take them out see if that helps the fit, stack up some washers to make them fit well enough to work, you need to get your management working correctly or your gonna start having major problems

 

[iamcivic]

haha yah open wastegate flapper will defiintly lag your spool. good job on fixing the leak and bov. i understand what your saying about the injectors but i've never seen this problem before. who did u say made the injectors?

RC

who and where did you get this kit (cause I dont want it. :-p )? Or is it a homemade kit?

i got it from a guy on here. Starting not to like greddy. Im glad you dont want it cause im not planning on selling it.

put those injectors in!!!! the fuel raill has spacers on each mounting stud take them out see if that helps the fit, stack up some washers to make them fit well enough to work, you need to get your management working correctly or your gonna start having major problems

Yea, I havent been driving it much, until I get them in. The spacers will prob do the trick, since they are about 1/4" shorter. thanks for the help. Im gonna work on it FRI.