Boosting OEM d16y7

Udrv2slw

New Member
Ok. I've been looking around for a actual answer can't seem to find one.
Some people want to know how much boost a stock d16y7 can handle.
But we get answers like 200 hp. Well I'm sry but that's not a answer to the question. There look for psi ( pounds per square inch). Some people have no access to a dyno at the moment to check.

So my question simplified is

"How much I'm PSI can a complete stock or OEM d16 handle. "
This includes
stock internals
Stock ECU no tune ob2. Whith no check engine light if possible . Some people like me can't do a ob1 swap for inspection reasons like in ny.

Stock head.
Stock intake manifold
Stock head gaskets
Stock fuel injection
Stock fuel pump.

How much psi can it take and run good, safe
 
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Udrv2slw

New Member
Boost it and return with results!
Lol I have considered it. I'm going to build a separate turbo motor for the car anyway. Low compression pistons. Forged rods y8 head. Skunk2 y8 intake manifold. Ect
But I'm just curious as some other people are as to how much the y7 stock could do before the ecu gets angry if any at all. Even it it's ok with 1 psi i would be interested in knowing
 

XpL0d3r

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:welcome: fellow NYer!

Udrv2slw said:
"How much I'm PSI can a complete stock or OEM d16 handle. "
Stock internals can probably handle somewhere around 7-8 PSI depending on the health of the motor. There is no set "once it hits exactly x PSI it's going to break" limit.


But I'm just curious as some other people are as to how much the y7 stock could do before the ecu gets angry if any at all. Even it it's ok with 1 psi i would be interested in knowing
No, because you need a tune. ANY extra air will confuse it. Think of it this way.... you boost the car. Everything works with stock tune. But then you take the car out for a test drive and hit boost. Any boost, even your 1psi. Under vacuum you have negative pressure. Hitting boost, you're switching from negative pressure, to positive pressure. All this extra air is being forced into your motor. This is where the tune comes in, and corrects your A/F to the proper ratio... there needs to be the correct amount of fuel in there because of the added air, or else you will run lean and may cause detonation. It might run for a little bit, but eventually you would run into issues. Boosting for 1psi is simply foolish. For what it's worth, we supercharged my friends Dodge Dakota, and he drove for less than 24 hours un-tuned before he toasted it.

In short, if you can't go ODB1, and you can't get something like AEM for management, don't go boost. No, not even 1 psi, unless you want to risk wasting your money and blowing things up.

You CAN go ODB1, though. Every inspection you'd need to pull the wastegate spring, put stock ecu and stock injectors back in, o2 sensors if you eliminate them for odb1, and then drive carefully to the inspection place.

I say this is every turbo build -- the tune is *THE* most important part of the entire setup.

I encourage you to read the link that @Esotericimage provided.. I consider that link a turbo bible.
 

Esotericimage

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Also, you should familiarize with how engines work, then how adding power adders such as nitrous, turbo etc effects the engine and in what ways. Then figure whats needed to keep the engine healthy with the power adders.

Once youve learned this, you should have no problems getting to your goal of a healthy boosted Y7


EDIT: also make sure your wallet can sustain your goals.

Fast
Reliable
Cheap

^^
Pick 2 and the third is what its not.
 

Udrv2slw

New Member
Also, you should familiarize with how engines work, then how adding power adders such as nitrous, turbo etc effects the engine and in what ways. Then figure whats needed to keep the engine healthy with the power adders.

Once youve learned this, you should have no problems getting to your goal of a healthy boosted Y7
I know engines. I dI'd not know what is in the parameters of the stock ecu. That's all
 

Esotericimage

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For some reason, Im hitting the bullshit button.

from your posts, you might have some idea, but you really dont know much.

And im trying to say this as nice as possible.
 

Udrv2slw

New Member
Like my stock ecu in my f150 does allow for positive pressure. Only because my motor and ecu are the same that were used in the ford lightning
 

Esotericimage

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The Honda MAP sensor does allow for up to 11lbs of positive. But the ECU wont add fuel by itself.


Also, PSI doesnt kill the engine, cylinder pressure does. Theres alot to determine "What/How much PSI will XX engine handle" as far as how much volume are you feeding the engine.

If this engine is going to be a street engine, I would use a mid level compression ratio. 10:1 area.

But hey, thats just me.
 
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mc360

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I believe stock ecu sees boost and it freaks out and goes into limp mode, you need a chipped ecu to boost a honda. If you plan on building a block later on then you might as well buy a chipped ecu now and tune the stock motor for boost while it still runs. Everyone says 200hp because that's what the motor can handle, I'm sure a d16 could handle 50psi plus as long as the hp that it makes at 50 psi is below 250hp. Every turbo at same psi makes different hp that's why you don't see people saying run xx psi
 

HockeyZombies

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I would at the very least make sure ALL your fluids are up to par. Run top tier or non ethanol fuel and a synthetic 5w30 thats HTO 6 certified like Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra or Castrol Edge 5w30. These oils that are HTO 6 specd and are for turbo and also run a synthetic ATF or manual fluid from Amsoil or Redline if possible. Check coolant and replace if necessary. Make more power purs more wear on parts and fluids. Change everything 30000 or under Honda extreme recommended. We have a 500hp big block and change all fluids early or 12000 mi.Cheaper than new motor or tranny.
 

Esotericimage

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^^
This guy and the fluids.. LOL

the OP has alot more issues than fluids.

And how do you think engines were kept alive during the 80"s without these modern oils? I ran conventional 10/30 in my boosted ride and it was fine.
 

CHILD

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I believe stock ecu sees boost and it freaks out and goes into limp mode, you need a chipped ecu to boost a honda. If you plan on building a block later on then you might as well buy a chipped ecu now and tune the stock motor for boost while it still runs. Everyone says 200hp because that's what the motor can handle, I'm sure a d16 could handle 50psi plus as long as the hp that it makes at 50 psi is below 250hp. Every turbo at same psi makes different hp that's why you don't see people saying run xx psi
I was wondering why it took so long before someone wrote this. Clearly the OP got legitimate help and chose to ignore it without understanding it first.
 

saquon

New Member
Ok. I've been looking around for a actual answer can't seem to find one.
Some people want to know how much boost a stock d16y7 can handle.
But we get answers like 200 hp. Well I'm sry but that's not a answer to the question. There look for psi ( pounds per square inch). Some people have no access to a dyno at the moment to check.

So my question simplified is

"How much I'm PSI can a complete stock or OEM d16 handle. "
This includes
stock internals
Stock ECU no tune ob2. Whith no check engine light if possible . Some people like me can't do a ob1 swap for inspection reasons like in ny.

Stock head.
Stock intake manifold
Stock head gaskets
Stock fuel injection
Stock fuel pump.

How much psi can it take and run good, safe
I wanna know the same thing cause I wanna do that with my Y8

Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
 

Esotericimage

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The info is out there.. just have to search and learn.


you should come to find that the rods/bearings/crank isnt the culprit of why they blow up over 200hp
 


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