Brake Pedal Travel and Booster Replacement

[iHopeItWorks]

I drive a '89 civic hatch with what i believe is stock but not original brakes. Drums out back and disks sitting up front. I was unable to maintain brake pressure and had noticed heavy corrosion on the master cylinder. I have since replaced the brake booster and master cylinder with a fairly new set from a junk yard. To save the hassle i left the master and booster attached during the entire install. After a bleed they work well and after a week i will call it fixed. However the brakes don't engage till the end of the pedal. I have read that this is because i haven't adjusted the booster so that there is the proper clearance between it and he master cylinder. Can i do this without removing the master cylinder, (required if i want to get the measurement) and just adjust it to where the brake travel feels right. If so what way do i want to turn the nut and how much?

 

[dynochris1]

if you didnt mess with the adjustment then dont its not wrong

take off your rear drums and adjust them up your rear brakes are applied first and until the shoes hit the drum your front brakes wont do anything

which is y the pedal goes so far down but the brakes work great

if after that they still feel low bleed them again the rears are a pain to bleed right if they are not contacting the drum because there wont be much line pressure to force air out

and by no way am i implying u bled them wrong just the system wont allow the rears to be bled properly without the shoes contacting the drums

 

[iHopeItWorks]

Excellent, it seems you may be right. However how do i adjust them as you have suggested?