Brake problem need some good feed back guys!!!

[Daddyydex]

Ok I have a 95 Honda civic ex vtech 1.6 with abs. Ok so ever since I brought the car the "Abs" light stays in while driving. Is this normal is it suppose to be on or off? Now I was changing my brakes in front and the right side caliper braket the top pin is stuck and I can't get it out some places won't even sell the bracket by itself so I have to get a new caliper. So my 2nd question is is this what's affecting my abs and also how much less braking power am I getting? 3rd question I realized I been putting brake fluid in like 2 to 3 times a month is this because of that pin that's stuck? Or cud one of the bolts be loose by the bleeder? Or cud it be somethn else? Need some good answers guys and give in detail please !!!

 

[serversurfer]

It's not normal for the ABS light to stay on; it indicates a problem. As far as getting "less braking power" because of it, typically, a non-functional ABS would just mean it's not pumping the brakes for you on panic stops, etc. Of course, if the ABS is only non-functional on one wheel, that could lead to loss of control during panic stops.

When you say you were changing the brakes, what do you mean, exactly? Were you just changing the pads? If so, why were you trying to remove the top pin?

With regard to how much fluid you've been putting in, it certainly sounds like you have a leak somewhere. I don't know if that would cause the ABS light to come on, but it's certainly possible.

 

[Daddyydex]

Well I was just changing pads but since I was a litte new I wanted to look around and the bottom pin moved to the touch but the top pin was stuck like it was stuck n there n wudnt come out. So that means my pads wud wear uneven right!!!? And I wasn't tryn to remove pin but I was looking and around so I better understood what I was seeing. I was with my boy who is a machanic so he saw problem as well so he said I have to change the whole bracket but like I wrote before they goig to sell me the whole caliper not just bracket.... Would that stuck pin be a cause of less brake power since only some of the pad is touching the rotoer due to unevenness? N wud that be part of y abs like is on?

 

[serversurfer]

Well, I'm not entirely sure what you're describing, so let me explain how it's supposed to work, and we'll try to figure out if there's any difference.

There are two pins which go through the caliper. The lower pin is the one you remove to change the pads, and after you remove it, the caliper assembly should "flip up" to give you access to the pads. During the flip-up, the top pin basically acts like a hinge. During operation, the calipers slide in and out on those two pins. You can think of the top pin as a more or less permanent fixture. It's bolted directly to the wheel assembly, and doesn't move, unless you're removing it to replace the calipers. (The new set will include two new pins.)

Are your pads worn unevenly? Like, is the inner pad more worn than the outer, or vice versa? What about more worn on the left side of the car than the right? If the pads are wearing evenly and your brakes feel good, then that stuff is probably all fine.

I don't really know anything about the ABS though, so someone else is gonna need to help you out there.

 

[RonJ]

Pulling ABS codes is similar to pulling CEL codes -- by jumping the service connector and watching the ABS light blinking pattern. If you post a video, I'll tell you the circuit that is causing the ABS problem.

 

[Daddyydex]

Thanks Ron I'll see if I can get that vid for u I'll ask my boy if he is free. But if not how can I do it myself or where can I take my car?

Ok so SURFER we on the same page I got u 100% that how I change but on each pin there is a boot like a little rubber that's in between the pin an caliper and I know that that screw goes into the pin when I have to put brakes together. I'm sayn when I do take that screw out the top pin to change pads. That top pin is not suppose to be stuck in there like its suppose to have some play because that rubber boot is there! Like if I just wanted to change the top pin for whatever reason I shud be able to just take it out! But I can't it jammed in there like its corrupted n there or like someone didnt grease it up before putting it in! So the top part of pads in worn out more than the bottom yes! My brakes feel ok cuz I mean I drive that car for years now but wen I drive my boys car n he has a 92 civic his brakes feel so much more tighter and like u feel the car slow down as soon as u tap. My car I have to push down a little more to actually start feeling it slow down as good. And yes I did bleed my brakes so there is no air!

 

[RonJ]

http://honda-tech.com/showpost.php?p=44652561&postcount=3

 

[serversurfer]

You don't need to remove the top pin to change the pads. You remove the bottom pin, and then the calipers flip up, using the top pin as a hinge.

Look at this.

Are you able to flip the calipers like it shows in the diagram? If so, are you also able to slide the caliper assembly off of the top pin? You don't need to remove it completely — though it won't hurt anything if you do — but you should be able to slide the calipers back and forth a bit. If it's seized up, then yes, you'll want to replace the caliper. You can get a new one with a lifetime warranty at AutoZone for $40, and obviously, it's pretty easy to replace yourself.

With regard to your brakes feeling soft compared to your buddy's, like I said in my first response, it sounds like you've got a leak in your system somewhere. That's why you need to keep adding brake fluid. A leak will cause the brake pedal to feel soft, and the brakes to be weak. The leak could be anywhere, from the master cylinder itself, along the brake lines, and out to the calipers and/or wheel cylinders.

Did you check the wear on the pads?

 

[caljam]

hello, I am new at this. How do I post?

 

[serversurfer]

Just like that, caljam.

 

[caljam]

I need help changing the plastic end of the hood release lever. I pulled it too hard yesterday to open the hood and I broke it.
My car is a 4-door Honda civic 99.

 

[serversurfer]

You should create a new thread, Cal. Click the New Thread button at the top of the forum.

 

[Daddyydex]

Mmm ok so I'll replace caliper easy fix thanks. Where is master cylinder located and would I be able to check that myself or bring to. Shop? I'm going to check the ends at the wheels to make sure they at tight. And if I check the brake lines wud I myself notice where it's dripping or do I also take it to shop and let them do it? N I'll check pads n the am. But I'm sure it's uneven because when I put new pads in a few months agO as soon as I started driving the car wud scratch rotor hard and then go and scratch hard and then go till it evened out

 

[serversurfer]

The master cylinder is the little jar-looking thing near the firewall that you've been pouring brake fluid in to.

I'm not really sure what you mean by "scratch hard, go, scratch hard, go." Was this all happening within a wheel revolution, as though there was a "bump" in the new pads or something, or are you saying one time you'd try to stop and they'd grind, but the next time they didn't, and then they started grinding again later?

How hard do you normally brake, on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being an elderly grandmother, and 10 being a pre-teen playing Gran Turismo? If you're in the habit of romping on the brakes at the last second, there's a good chance your discs are warped.

As far as finding the leak goes, you can do a visual inspection yourself. Check the bleed bolts on all four corners. Check the banjo bolts on the calipers in front, and the flare nuts leading in to the wheel cylinders in back. Check the lines themselves for leaks. Check the master cylinder. Lift the calipers and look for leaks in and around the piston. Pull the drums and look for leaks in the wheel cylinders. It might be helpful if you have someone pumping the brakes while you're checking. If you push and hold the brake pedal firmly, does it slowly get closer to the floor, or does it stay put?

You said you bled the brakes. Are you sure you did them in the correct order? It should be right-rear, left-front, left-rear, right-front. What method did you follow when bleeding the brakes?

 

[gugiey]

The master cylinder is the little jar-looking thing near the firewall that you've been pouring brake fluid in to.

I'm not really sure what you mean by "scratch hard, go, scratch hard, go." Was this all happening within a wheel revolution, as though there was a "bump" in the new pads or something, or are you saying one time you'd try to stop and they'd grind, but the next time they didn't, and then they started grinding again later?

How hard do you normally brake, on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being an elderly grandmother, and 10 being a pre-teen playing Gran Turismo? If you're in the habit of romping on the brakes at the last second, there's a good chance your discs are warped.

As far as finding the leak goes, you can do a visual inspection yourself. Check the bleed bolts on all four corners. Check the banjo bolts on the calipers in front, and the flare nuts leading in to the wheel cylinders in back. Check the lines themselves for leaks. Check the master cylinder. Lift the calipers and look for leaks in and around the piston. Pull the drums and look for leaks in the wheel cylinders. It might be helpful if you have someone pumping the brakes while you're checking. If you push and hold the brake pedal firmly, does it slowly get closer to the floor, or does it stay put?

You said you bled the brakes. Are you sure you did them in the correct order? It should be right-rear, left-front, left-rear, right-front. What method did you follow when bleeding the brakes?

he doesn't even know how to check for leaks I don't think he can bleed his brakes .

 

[Daddyydex]

Hmmm ok can't really explain the scratch umm no bump on pads but because pins are uneven to begin with the brake pad was slanted going in. Top pin is seized up in whatever position it's on either out to much or in to much bottom pin has play to get cuz it not stuck like glue in the bracket. So putting new pads there coming in on a slant so it's already touchn rotor before start driving and burns off pad till its even with bottom pads position hope u understand that that's best way I can explain kid

From one to ten I brake at maybe a 4 or 5 but like I said I have to push a little more being that there isn't that pressure there when I push right away

No didn't follow order in bleeding brake I usually bleed where I'm doing the change. Like if I do back brakes I bleed both back and if I do front I bleed both front. Maybe that's where I went wrong ....? Umm I have someone in car push petal hard nd I open n close bleeder I do that a coule of times till all air is out of system. N I wud do that on. Both sides

I'll check today for leaks as u told me il just hoping my fingers dnt fall off cuz its mad cold over here n NY since yesterday n I dnt have a garage just a parking spot!!

Thanks Serfur for ya help ima run those checks today and get back to u. I'm hoping I can check today

Oh and I'm sorry "Gugiey" I forgot all guys are born knowing how fix there own car before they even get it. There not on here asking questions or watching a YouTube video or even watching one of there boys fix there own cars like I'm doing to learn!! If I dnt kno ima ask not gona act like I know it all n then mess up my own car tryna front like ima pro!

 

[Daddyydex]

Oh surfer I just looked on YouTube on how to change the master cylinder so ima going to change that an see if I get any improvements and yes I know I have to bleed them once I change cylinder wud u perfer bleeding it from the cylinder or from the wheels in the order you told me?

 

[serversurfer]

Hmmm ok can't really explain the scratch umm no bump on pads but because pins are uneven to begin with the brake pad was slanted going in. Top pin is seized up in whatever position it's on either out to much or in to much bottom pin has play to get cuz it not stuck like glue in the bracket. So putting new pads there coming in on a slant so it's already touchn rotor before start driving and burns off pad till its even with bottom pads position hope u understand that that's best way I can explain kid

Well, it sounds like the caliper is shot. Go ahead and replace it, and replace the pads too. If you don't already have pads with a lifetime warranty, go ahead and get some that do. You can get a full set of four pads from AutoZone for about $20; a bit more for ceramic, and a bit less for semi-metallic.

Edit: Be sure to replace the pads on both sides of the car, even if you feel like the other side doesn't need it.

From one to ten I brake at maybe a 4 or 5 but like I said I have to push a little more being that there isn't that pressure there when I push right away

Okay, that's fine.

No didn't follow order in bleeding brake I usually bleed where I'm doing the change. Like if I do back brakes I bleed both back and if I do front I bleed both front. Maybe that's where I went wrong ....? Umm I have someone in car push petal hard nd I open n close bleeder I do that a coule of times till all air is out of system. N I wud do that on. Both sides

Yeah, you're doing it wrong. First of all, any time you open the system, you need to re-bleed the entire thing, in the order I described. Second, your method for doing the bleed is wrong as well. When you're at AutoZone, tell them you need a bleed kit. I got one for about $9 that has a little vacuum bottle, which prevents air from moving back in to the system. It also comes with the stuff you need to "bench bleed" the master cylinder. It has instructions that are fairly easy to follow, but post back if you have any questions.

I'll check today for leaks as u told me il just hoping my fingers dnt fall off cuz its mad cold over here n NY since yesterday n I dnt have a garage just a parking spot!!

I find gloves to be helpful.

Oh surfer I just looked on YouTube on how to change the master cylinder so ima going to change that an see if I get any improvements and yes I know I have to bleed them once I change cylinder wud u perfer bleeding it from the cylinder or from the wheels in the order you told me?

Well, don't change the master cylinder if there's nothing wrong with it.

If you do change it, you'll need to bench bleed the MC, and then bleed all four lines, in the order I gave you. The kit I described also has instructions for doing the bench bleed. For the record, not all cars are bled in the same order; it varies from car to car. The service manual for your car will list the proper order, but for the 5G Civics, it's RR, LF, LR, RF.

Speaking of manuals, you should download the Helm's manual, if you haven't already. It's really helpful. Oh, and grab a Hayne's manual while you're at AutoZone. It's not as comprehensive as the Helm's — which is the official shop manual — but it's more beginner-friendly.