Cruise Control no longer working.

EJackBauer8

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Well two weeks ago I took my car to a shop so they could replace the head gasket and everything that goes along with that. I barely noticed yesterday that the cruise control isn't working. The button lights up when I press it and when I press the set button on the steering wheel it lights up the light on the cluster, but when I let go of the gas all it does is slow down as if it never engaged. So my question is, what would cause this? And I will be letting the shop know soon.
 

RonJ

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it lights up the light on the cluster, but when I let go of the gas all it does is slow down as if it never engaged. So my question is, what would cause this? And I will be letting the shop know soon.
Does the cluster CC light remain lit the whole time or turn off?

Have you checked the actuator cable and the two vacuum hoses? Post pictures of the CC system under the hood.
 


EJackBauer8

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Does the cluster CC light remain lit the whole time or turn off?

Have you checked the actuator cable the two vacuum hoses? Post pictures of the CC system under the hood.
It remains lit the whole time until I press the CC button.

Where's the CC system under the hood, so I can check it?
 

EJackBauer8

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Upon inspection I found that there is a hose disconnected, but I don't know where it leads to.


 

RonJ

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Did you look at the diagram? There are only two vacuum hoses in the CC system. You can't pinpoint the disconnected vacuum hose in the picture and reconnect it?? The disconnected CC hose in the top picture connects to a nipple on the rear of the IM.

And neither picture shows the actuator or vacuum tank. Focus your pictures on the CC components.
 

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EJackBauer8

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Actually after I posted that I found that it connected to the back of the intake manifold, I'll take more pictures in a few.
 

RonJ

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The CC will probably work now. The mechanic just forgot to reconnect the vacuum hose. You most surely also had a high surging idle problem, right?
 

EJackBauer8

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The CC will probably work now. The mechanic just forgot to reconnect the vacuum hose. You most surely also had a high surging idle problem, right?
When I would start it, it would start at 2k then go down after 5 seconds, but other than that it would idle fine.
 

EJackBauer8

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On my way to work I tested the CC and it worked, but I stalled at least 5 times on the way there since now after connecting that line the car idles at around 600 rpms and sometimes when I have I foot on the clutch and it's dropping rpms it goes to far and it stalls.
 

SpeedTechnik

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On my way to work I tested the CC and it worked, but I stalled at least 5 times on the way there since now after connecting that line the car idles at around 600 rpms and sometimes when I have I foot on the clutch and it's dropping rpms it goes to far and it stalls.
When the shop adjusted your idle they must have done so with the cc disconnected. meaning they did it while the car had surging idle. Just adjust the idle and you should be fine.
 

EJackBauer8

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When the shop adjusted your idle they must have done so with the cc disconnected. meaning they did it while the car had surging idle. Just adjust the idle and you should be fine.
How would I adjust the idle? Isn't there an Idle screw to adjust it?
 

lethal6

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Do not, I repeat do not mess with the screw on the throttle body. Ron correct me if I am wrong here but doesn't the ECU readjust idle if it senses something is off?

You probably need to just reset the ECU or let it readjust on it's own.

Messing with the set screw is liable to cause you a lot of head ache. This isn't a carb'd engine, its an electrically controlled fuel injected one.
 

SpeedTechnik

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Do not, I repeat do not mess with the screw on the throttle body. Ron correct me if I am wrong here but doesn't the ECU readjust idle if it senses something is off?

You probably need to just reset the ECU or let it readjust on it's own.

Messing with the set screw is liable to cause you a lot of head ache. This isn't a carb'd engine, its an electrically controlled fuel injected one.
Im not RonJ but yes you do have a point. the Ecu is resposible for electronically readjusting idle, its just going to take a while for it to do that. Reseting the ECU is an option as it would be starting off of a "clean" slate. It is possible to adjust it through the screw, but i would only recomend this if he knew how. Which i think it is safe to assume he does not.
 

lethal6

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On my way to work I tested the CC and it worked, but I stalled at least 5 times on the way there since now after connecting that line the car idles at around 600 rpms and sometimes when I have I foot on the clutch and it's dropping rpms it goes to far and it stalls.
600 RPMs at idle is normal for a d-series motor.
 

Intertwined

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just disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes and it resets the ecu.
 

RonJ

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Do not, I repeat do not mess with the screw on the throttle body. Ron correct me if I am wrong here but doesn't the ECU readjust idle if it senses something is off?

You probably need to just reset the ECU or let it readjust on it's own.

Messing with the set screw is liable to cause you a lot of head ache. This isn't a carb'd engine, its an electrically controlled fuel injected one.
I agree. This^ is where to start. OP - remove the 7.5A hood Back Up fuse for about 5 minutes, and then reinsert it and take the car for a drive. Note that the idle speed will be a little inconsistent at first because the ECU needs to relearn the sensor inputs. If the idle speed hasn't steadied after a day of driving then post again.

Im not RonJ but yes you do have a point. the Ecu is resposible for electronically readjusting idle, its just going to take a while for it to do that. Reseting the ECU is an option as it would be starting off of a "clean" slate. It is possible to adjust it through the screw, but i would only recomend this if he knew how. Which i think it is safe to assume he does not.
^ agreed
 

EJackBauer8

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600 RPMs at idle is normal for a d-series motor.
I thought 700-900 was normal?





I agree. This^ is where to start. OP - remove the 7.5A hood back up fuse for about 5 minutes, and then reinsert it and take the car for a drive. Note that the idle speed will be a little inconsistent at first because the ECU needs to relearn the sensor inputs. If the idle speed hasn't steadied after a day of driving then post again.



^ agreed
So remove that fuse from the fuse box and drive for a day? Do I need to remove the negative battery cable at all?
 


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