D16Y8 N/A High Comp. Build

Docta2002

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What Happened 1st?

So I started with a Tercel (crashed), then got a Saturn because it was m/t and had a sunroof (blew the motor), fixed the Saturn and it blew again. So I was thinkin, the way I drive, I need a civic and it HAS to be m/t and have a sunroof. I knew a cheapy Civic wouldn’t do, so I financed one with Carmax. Sothe first week I got the car I put on a muffler and I had that cool sound from the exhaust. Ohhhhhh lol

Then I never did anything to the car till last year when I started. At last I neglected it, (didn’t change the oil in 9k and when I did, only 2qt came out) and it started knockin. At this point I still barely know anything about engines. So I got a junkyard Y7 block, a remanufactured head, and paid 1k in labor alone to put it in. s**t broke (knockin again) 5k-7k later. Then I decided I need it to do it myself since I’m a true believer of “If you want it done right, do it yourself” motto.

Months went by doing research and saving and buying parts, and learning how to build an engine the right way so I ended up with these parts for my build:

(BTW, I choose to stay with my D cause of costs and I chose N/A cause of $$$$ as well). I rather have a built D then a stock USED B.

The Parts
-my original y8 block: decked, honed, prof. cleaned// remanufactured stock y8 head
-Eagle Rods
-CP Pistons High Comp.
-ACL Race (rod), ACL Duraglide (main)
-ARP Head Studs
-ARP Flywheel Bolts
-Fidanza Flywheel
-Exedy Stage1 Clutch
-KMS Block Guard
-NGK Spark Plugs and NGK Wires
-Cometic Head Gasket
-New Oil Pump
-New Water Pump
-New Timing Belt
-Hondata S100
-Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
-P28 ECU
-2.5" Catback + Test Pipe
-Al Radiator + Thin Elec. Fan
-Skunk2 Intake Manifold
-Skunk2 Cam Gear
-Honda Real Main Oil Seal
-Honda Thermostat
-Honda Exhaust Manifold Gasket
-Honda Oil Pan Gasket
-Honda Oil Filter (3)
-Honda Cam Gear Key (woodruf key or something like that)
-Denso Idle Air Control Valve
-New Alternator
-Vision Motorsports Washable Fuel Filter
-Marshal Fuel Pressure Gauge
-AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
-CRV Cluster

And I still need:
-Chipping and installation of the S100 in my ECU (taken care of by Xenocron)
-Engine oil, tranny fluid, brake fluid, clutch fluid, coolant, basically all fluids...
-The catback mounting braket were crap so I cut them off, but I need'em welded correctly so...

A few of the tools I had to get to do this:
-Feeler gauges
-Piston Ring Compressor
-Piston Ring Expander
-Plastigauge
-CD-ROM of Honda Service Manual
-Haynes SCV Manual
-Micrometer
-Needle Files
-Wire Brushes
-2 different torque wrenches
-Engine Stand
-RTV and an Anaerobic RTV
-Assembly Lube
-And more things I dont find usefull listing

The Build:

Block returning from the shop



Block Notched


Block Guard in. At this point I still didnt have the engine stand


Oil Pan and baffle ready to go


Pistons and Rods in then crankshaft




Main Bearing Cap Bridge notched as well


Closed up. Torqued to spec, all clearances check... everything's good.



Rear Main Seal in


I think I used too much of that anaerobic RTV and its a b***h to take it off


More progress


Before and After of the oil pump




Before and After of the thermostat housing



and a bit of chamfering too


a bit of cleaning of the bottom of the cylinder head


Throttle body chamfered as well
 

fwdpower

No traction though.
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:popcorn:

I'm doing a similar build. Except I'm using P29 pistons and I'm doing a fully built head. New springs, teflon coated valves, Aggressive camshaft, etc.

I am expecting to get at least 160 whp with my setup. I probably won't use eagle rods though. I might just use shotpeened stock rods, mainly because I do not want to notch the girdle for the rods to fit. Cheaper too.

Good luck. D blocks are so cheap, if it ever blows, it's easy to build again. New ARP bolts, and new pistons and rods. Your head is most likely still good if anything. Since D series have longer strokes, you yield more torque, thus beating those stock B series. =P You still end up having a cheaper set up than a decently USED b-series.
 


Docta2002

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FWDPOWER, too late on the BG, its in and its staying... I'm aware of the hot spot issue but I doubt it'll cause me problems... Well I hope it wont..

Studs in


My work area. Dust free, not crumb free



Cheapy eBay piston ring compressor was crap so I had to improvise and made my own.


Performing p2v test
Engaging VTEC



 

Docta2002

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And many things are installed on the block. Its on the engine stand and I'm waiting for the ECU to come back and my injectors to come back as well.

Meanwhile, I still dont have a hoist so Imma try n hustle it out from beneath (the junkyard y7 Im talking about). I'm stuck thou cause Idk how to, or I just cant, swing the control arm out of the way in order to take the axles off... And no pics for now either cause i dont have the camera these days...
 


Kensai

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How high is the compression? Like 13 to 1? No valvetrain upgrades =(?
 

fwdpower

No traction though.
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How high is the compression? Like 13 to 1? No valvetrain upgrades =(?
Yeah, compression is really high.

Don't get it above 13:1, or you might have to use race gas for the rest of your life. I think my set up will end up with 12.8:1, but idk.
 

Tam4511

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if u mess this up...get a bicycle lol, jp, gl
 

Docta2002

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No valve train upgrade so far, cause it costs more to do so...

Compression will be (most likely) above 12:1 and (definitely) below 13:1. Right now the head gasket I have is a 0.030" cometic mls, I might get the 0.045" or the 0.051" instead cause I didnt know better before and I did the p2v test with my new HG, so I gotta get a new one and I might as well get a thicker one so it lowers my compression a bit, makes it easier to tune, and makes the 93 octane burn better. These pistons I'm using are specifically for a D16A6. This whole high compression thing is why I got an S100. I believe that's good enough for my car to get tuned w/e has to be tuned... I dont plan to keep messing with the tunning afterwards...

Tam4511, I wish I still had my 01 FSR-XC, I would go everywhere with it but instead I sold it loooooooong ago. :(
 

Billy.

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lol @ the motor sitting on your kitchen counter :rolf:

nice build thread though :thumbs up
 

Docta2002

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Nothing has been done cause I dont have a tie rod puller to take the axles off and the cherry picker is only gonna be here on saturday (maybe tomorro cause on sat imma go to the game)..

But I have a question. I sold my P2P long ago so I cant look at it to tell the difference... Is it an OBD2A or OBD2B? P2P, off 2000 civic ex... I totally forgot I had to buy one..
 

Szady

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Why are you taking the tie rods off to pull the axles? Just pop the ball joint out, and your good to go. No need to pull the tie rods.

P2P for a 2000 Civic, is OBD2b.
 

Docta2002

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Why are you taking the tie rods off to pull the axles? Just pop the ball joint out, and your good to go. No need to pull the tie rods.

P2P for a 2000 Civic, is OBD2b.
Thanks on the OBD2B help...

Ok, "just pop the ball-joint out" i guess thats what im trying to do. I probably worded it wrong. So I need a ball-joint "popper", or what's it called?

I went under the car, I removed the bottom part of the shock from the top part and the LCA. I removed a nut that had a cotter pin thru it, this nut holds the LCA and the 'other part' (I think its part of the steering). So now I need to pull those threads (where the above mentioned nut was removed from) up and/or pull the LCA down. I tried hammering it a bit but I think I might damage the bolt/ball-joint so I need a specific tool. Which is it?
 

Szady

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Nope, you want what Esotericimage posted. Sometimes called a pickle fork. If you have a long ass screw driver/crow bar, that sometimes works, but is a real PITA. With the pickle fork, you just pound it in between the LCA and the knuckle, and eventually it'll pop free.

You shouldnt even be touching anything to do w/the steering if your just pulling the axle out.
 

Docta2002

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k thanks dude. Imma get that tool these days and borrow a hoist maybe tomorrow. then take out the old motor/tranny and go from there...
 


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