Dimming Flickering Light Problem - Back from the Dead

RonJ

Banned
I said it then and I'll say it again -- check fuse 15 and have the alternator tested.

When you turn the key from off to the ON(II) position, does the cluster charging system (battery symbol) light stay on?

Also make sure the upper and lower alternator mount/bracket bolts are tight.
 


will85w4

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5+ Year Member
RonJ said:
I said it then and I'll say it again -- check fuse 15 and have the alternator tested.

When you turn the key from off to the ON(II) position, does the cluster charging system (battery symbol) light stay on?

Also make sure the upper and lower alternator mount/bracket bolts are tight.
Click to expand...

Alternator good, fuse 15 7.5A good, battery symbol does not stay on...

Have to check mount/bracket bolts for alternator still.

Getting timing belt/water pump replaced this Saturday. If I can't find anything out before then, I will see if the mechanic changing belts/pump can find anything.
 

will85w4

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5+ Year Member
RonJ said:
I said it then and I'll say it again -- check fuse 15 and have the alternator tested.

When you turn the key from off to the ON(II) position, does the cluster charging system (battery symbol) light stay on?

Also make sure the upper and lower alternator mount/bracket bolts are tight.
Click to expand...
If it's none of these, what else could be causing this?

The power wire for my stereo is running along the firewall inside the engine bay, then comes through just above pedals. I have the remote wire for my amp wired up to rear left passenger power window wire (works perfect, no problems) and controlled via toggle switch in center console (turn bass on and off as needed, I have a 3 year old that rides in car with me quite often).

I've disconnected power wire for amp, remote wire, and car still has same problem, so I don't believe it's related to stereo at all (as determined in thread from 2 years ago).
 


will85w4

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RonJ said:
This^ is a problem. When the key is turned from OFF to ON(II), the battery light should remain on steady.
Click to expand...
RonJ - I read this wrong the first time. YES the battery symbol does stay ON when turned from OFF to ON (II)

chrome magnum said:
How old is the battery and altnater?
Click to expand...

The battery is about 6 months old. The alternator hasn't been changed since I bought the car in April 2007 (car only had 16k miles on it when I bought it) but have never had any problems with it and have had it tested at AutoZone several times because of this problem. Most recent test on it was about 2 months ago.
 

will85w4

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RonJ said:
Give details. How do you know?
Click to expand...
I pulled the fuse and looked at it, that's how I know. No breaks or cracks in the filament that I can SEE. I need to buy some more fuses anyways (my hazards aren't working, fuse blown).
 

R3dline

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its ur alt. i had this prob with my 99 ex, just get a new one
 
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RonJ

Banned
will85w4 said:
RonJ - I read this wrong the first time. YES the battery symbol does stay ON when turned from OFF to ON (II)
Click to expand...
This^ tells you fuse 15 is good.

Now do this:

...make sure the upper and lower alternator mount/bracket bolts are tight.
Click to expand...
Also check the tension of the alternator belt and whether it is glazed. If good, then have the alternator tested.
 

steve.21

New Member
Had the same thing happen to my 97 lx. And for me it was the alternator. How did autozone test it exactly? Did you take it out of the car and have them test it or was it in the car with that handheld thing on the battery
 

aneidiaztorres

New Member
If your dash is flickering the light from bright to a little darker then back to bright and again and again it's most likely the alternator my friend. Just because you get teh alternator tested still doesn't mean it's subject to failure soon enoigh. If you are still riding with the original OEM alternator in your car it has alot of years of use and it's just a matter of time.... If you have a remanufactured alternator those are even more suspect... I had the same problem about a year ago before I completely restored everything in my engine back to OEM new.. I bought most of my parts at my local AAP aside from the aftermarket upgrades (AEM intake, XXR rims, etc..). But after I changed my alternator it never did that problem. And before I handed in my OEM alternator to get my core charge $ back, I got it tested and it came out good. So it's most likely the alternator my friend. Good luck with that.
 
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