Ingalls Front and Rear Camber Kit DIY
Tools Needed:
2 10 mm wrenches
17 mm socket and wrench
18 mm socket and wrench
19 mm socket and wrench
Jack and jack stands
Torque wrench
Air wrench if you have one and swivel ends (Makes life easier)
I decided to do a front and rear camber kit DIY seeing that there wasnt' too much info on how to install them even though it is a really easy install. First, this is what I got in the mail, two Ingalls "SmartArm" Adjustable camber bars for the rear (rubber bushing model) and two Ingalls "FastCam" Adjustable camber bolts for the front. This kit will provide up to + or - 4 degrees of camber in the back and + or - 2 degrees in the front. My car is a 2001 Civic Ex with Neuspeed Sport Springs (1.75" drop).
We'll start with the rear first since that seems to be the most difficult, jack up your car and take off your wheels and tires.
Heres what you should see, or something similar (I had an existing camber arm but the OE looks similar except its not adjustable)
First, you want to remove the 10 mm bolt and nut on the ABS bracket to remove it from your old upper support arm, or in my case, my old camber bar.
Then, remove the two 17 mm bolts from the upper support arm that are mounted to the upper under portion of the wheel well. You will be needing to reuse these bolts so be careful.
Next, remove the 19 mm nut and 17 mm bolt from the outer end of the upper support arm to finally remove the upper support arm assembly.
Now it's time to install your new Ingalls camber kit. Heres what it should look like before you fasten it all together. Refer to this picture on which way everything attaches. Compare your newly put together camber arm with your old OE one and try to get it to the same length for the time being until you can take to an alignment shop to get fully adjusted.
First, attach the bracket end of the arm onto the spindle using your old bolt and new nut and washer supplied with your kit. Torque to 43 ft/lbs.
Then, I found it easier to install the OE ABS bracket while you can still move the camber arm around. Use your existing screw and new nut supplied in the kit and hand tighten with two 10 mm wrenches. Its somewhat tricky so have patience.
After installing that, bolt in the other end of the arm using the OE bolts. You have to jack up the lower control arm to compress the suspension, or else your bolt holes will never line up. Tighten to 43 ft/lbs as well. You are now done with the rear of the vehicle :rockon:
Front "FastCam" Camber Bolts
You will notice when you get these bolts, that they aren't as wide as the stock bolts, but have a cam in the middle. This cam is offset with the bolt and provided the camber adjustment. Ive never really dealt with these before the install so I don't know much about them so I just tried following the instructions best I could. There are two sizes available to order, 14 mm for 01-03 and 16 mm for 04-05 I believe so remember to order the right one or it won't fit.
First, raise the vehicle at the jack points underneath the body.
Next, remove the upper strut bolt circled in the picture but NOT the lower one using a 19 mm socket and wrench.
Next assemble your fastcam bolt and washer like this in the picture. The instructions were a bit confusing, but this is how I interpreted it.
The instructions say to add positive camber, have the bolt arrow pointing towards the engine while having the washer handle towards the tire. Like I said before, just guess until you can have your car properly aligned.
Next, loosen the bottom strut bolt a bit so the top one can be rotated. Insert the bolt the same way the stock one was with the washer between the strut and bolt head. Remember to keep the bolt arrow pointing towards the engine
and the washer tab towards the wheel for positive camber. I found it best to hold the bolt head with a 15 mm wrench and torque the 18 mm nut so the bolt head won't move. Torque to 76 ft/lbs.
Now my car is only lowered 1.75", so camber adjustment for the front is minimal. If you need more positive camber, remove the bottom strut bolt next and repeat the same procedure except for this time, point the bolt arrow towards the tire and washer tab towards the engine. But like I said before, if your unsure, make and educated guess until you can take to an alignment shop in which they can dial in your car to your specs.
I will soon get my car aligned and will report back to you guys ASAP!
Tools Needed:
2 10 mm wrenches
17 mm socket and wrench
18 mm socket and wrench
19 mm socket and wrench
Jack and jack stands
Torque wrench
Air wrench if you have one and swivel ends (Makes life easier)
I decided to do a front and rear camber kit DIY seeing that there wasnt' too much info on how to install them even though it is a really easy install. First, this is what I got in the mail, two Ingalls "SmartArm" Adjustable camber bars for the rear (rubber bushing model) and two Ingalls "FastCam" Adjustable camber bolts for the front. This kit will provide up to + or - 4 degrees of camber in the back and + or - 2 degrees in the front. My car is a 2001 Civic Ex with Neuspeed Sport Springs (1.75" drop).
We'll start with the rear first since that seems to be the most difficult, jack up your car and take off your wheels and tires.
Heres what you should see, or something similar (I had an existing camber arm but the OE looks similar except its not adjustable)
First, you want to remove the 10 mm bolt and nut on the ABS bracket to remove it from your old upper support arm, or in my case, my old camber bar.
Then, remove the two 17 mm bolts from the upper support arm that are mounted to the upper under portion of the wheel well. You will be needing to reuse these bolts so be careful.
Next, remove the 19 mm nut and 17 mm bolt from the outer end of the upper support arm to finally remove the upper support arm assembly.
Now it's time to install your new Ingalls camber kit. Heres what it should look like before you fasten it all together. Refer to this picture on which way everything attaches. Compare your newly put together camber arm with your old OE one and try to get it to the same length for the time being until you can take to an alignment shop to get fully adjusted.
First, attach the bracket end of the arm onto the spindle using your old bolt and new nut and washer supplied with your kit. Torque to 43 ft/lbs.
Then, I found it easier to install the OE ABS bracket while you can still move the camber arm around. Use your existing screw and new nut supplied in the kit and hand tighten with two 10 mm wrenches. Its somewhat tricky so have patience.
After installing that, bolt in the other end of the arm using the OE bolts. You have to jack up the lower control arm to compress the suspension, or else your bolt holes will never line up. Tighten to 43 ft/lbs as well. You are now done with the rear of the vehicle :rockon:
Front "FastCam" Camber Bolts
You will notice when you get these bolts, that they aren't as wide as the stock bolts, but have a cam in the middle. This cam is offset with the bolt and provided the camber adjustment. Ive never really dealt with these before the install so I don't know much about them so I just tried following the instructions best I could. There are two sizes available to order, 14 mm for 01-03 and 16 mm for 04-05 I believe so remember to order the right one or it won't fit.
First, raise the vehicle at the jack points underneath the body.
Next, remove the upper strut bolt circled in the picture but NOT the lower one using a 19 mm socket and wrench.
Next assemble your fastcam bolt and washer like this in the picture. The instructions were a bit confusing, but this is how I interpreted it.
The instructions say to add positive camber, have the bolt arrow pointing towards the engine while having the washer handle towards the tire. Like I said before, just guess until you can have your car properly aligned.
Next, loosen the bottom strut bolt a bit so the top one can be rotated. Insert the bolt the same way the stock one was with the washer between the strut and bolt head. Remember to keep the bolt arrow pointing towards the engine
and the washer tab towards the wheel for positive camber. I found it best to hold the bolt head with a 15 mm wrench and torque the 18 mm nut so the bolt head won't move. Torque to 76 ft/lbs.
Now my car is only lowered 1.75", so camber adjustment for the front is minimal. If you need more positive camber, remove the bottom strut bolt next and repeat the same procedure except for this time, point the bolt arrow towards the tire and washer tab towards the engine. But like I said before, if your unsure, make and educated guess until you can take to an alignment shop in which they can dial in your car to your specs.
I will soon get my car aligned and will report back to you guys ASAP!
