dynamat?
- Thread starter BluCiv08
- Start date
... dynamat in particular.. no, in my humble opinion. There are better products out there at competitive products.
Sound deadening in general is most def worth it. It's generally advised to basically put sound deadener all over your car. But a great starting point would be your doors and trunk.
Sound Deadener was one of the greatest investments I made in car audio. As an alternate to Dynamat I would suggest one of the following products:
Raamat BXT - this is if you want the 'best bang for your buck' on a budget... which can be found here:
http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=60
or
Second Skin Damplifier (pro) - This is if money is not an issue and you want the best of the best product out there (according to several knowledgeable reviewers)
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php
... if you're really hell bent on getting Dynamat, I would suggest going for the (extreme). According to your location you're in Florida, your going to need a product that can withstand the heat. But Raamat and Second Skin both make far better products than dynamat, imo. They also have great customer service so you can give them a shout and get all your questions answered by professional
Sound deadening in general is most def worth it. It's generally advised to basically put sound deadener all over your car. But a great starting point would be your doors and trunk.
Sound Deadener was one of the greatest investments I made in car audio. As an alternate to Dynamat I would suggest one of the following products:
Raamat BXT - this is if you want the 'best bang for your buck' on a budget... which can be found here:
http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=60
or
Second Skin Damplifier (pro) - This is if money is not an issue and you want the best of the best product out there (according to several knowledgeable reviewers)
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php
... if you're really hell bent on getting Dynamat, I would suggest going for the (extreme). According to your location you're in Florida, your going to need a product that can withstand the heat. But Raamat and Second Skin both make far better products than dynamat, imo. They also have great customer service so you can give them a shout and get all your questions answered by professional
Hahaha, Palm Compton in the house! Used to be in the P section few years back..
thanks for the info ill defiantly look into those two brands and see what i can afford
haha yeah Palm Compton, im in the B section right across from Indian trails when did you leave?
Exactly, Dynamat Extreme is not bad, there is definitely better out there, but I wouldn't consider something like RAAM mat much better. Second Skin products are the only ones that I would consider significantly better than the majority of butyl based sound deadening products. Definitely doors first. Completely seal up your doors, block off large access holes with fiberglass or ABS and then deaden over. At least 12sq ft in each door is what I recommend. Deadening is where you always want to start an install, too many people are under the impression that it is an optional step.
^^ true.. Raamat wouldnt be anywhere near Second Skin, but If you're looking at Dynamat, I feel that Raamat, is a much cheaper substitute and does as well as, if not a better job than Dynamat Extreme.
I'm a firm believer that sound deadening is an absolute essential to any car sound system.
Let us know if you need any help picking out the right equipment
peace
I'm a firm believer that sound deadening is an absolute essential to any car sound system.
Let us know if you need any help picking out the right equipment
peace
btw, here's a great place to start if you want ideas for your doors. Trust me, its worth it, and makes all the difference in the world:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/27-simple-cheap-effective-door-treatments.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-tutorials/27-simple-cheap-effective-door-treatments.html
I found dynamat xtreme on ebay for pretty cheap and i did both door panels and my entire trunk with it. It was kinda a b***h at times and took a lot of time but well worth it. Definitely use some type of sound deadening product if your thinking about putting any type of car audio in.
psychotic_civic
Guest
damn SQSI you shouldve just Dynomatted your whole car haha. theres one thing i cant stand and thats hearing tons of rattle when a car passes by. no bass just rattle. listen to these guys and take the time and do it right with quality products. i only used dynomat under my carpet to reduce road noise and it works quiet well...no pun intended.
This is a thread I made over on EJ8squad regarding sound deadening. Do this, forget Dynamat.
This is intended to be a living document explaining auto sound deadening for your EJ8. This information is compiled from multiple sources. The goal here is sound deaden your car for under $100 bucks and not add significant weight with the products suggested below, you can do this. Please feel free to tac on your own experiences and tricks of the trade.
Commercial auto sound deadening products, such as Dynomat, BQuiet, eDead, Fatmat, Rblocks are all essentially reproductions of housing construction grade sound deadening - aluminum foil over a butyl rubber base. There is essentially no functional difference between these products and "roof barriers" such as Peel and Seal and Quick Roof.
Roof barriers are approx 40-mil thick but Quick Roof also offers a 60-mil material called Stormblock. http://www.cofair.com/sb60.aspx. All these products have adhesive backing, which is perfect for applying to the inside of your stripped-down vehicle.
I read about how some car audio shops "stumbled" onto this solution in the '90s - it does the exact same thing as Dynamat but for about 20 percent of the cost. Honestly I think Dynamat started by repackaging similar stuff.
The 40-mil stuff is all about a buck a foot and it works really well. Double up on the firewall, the area around the rear window and rear parcel floor and the car will get real quiet inside.
Home Depot carries Quick Roof.
Lowe's carries a similar product called Peel and Seal.
Both are roofing products with adhesive backs, but apparently Quick Roof is a tad bit more effective.
I've heard, although not seen for myself, that you can do your whole car for around 65 bucks. http://www.yourautotrim.com/ has some good prices, but I'm sure there are more sources. If you were to use Dynamat, the same sound deadening would cost between $300 and $400, without any significant difference in effectiveness.
Some pictures of Civics with Peel and Seal..
Also, see this link for inside the door
It's also common to double up Peel and Seal/Quick Roof with a product called Thermozite, also known as Jute. I've found 27oz of Jute online for seven bucks. Termozite is a bit more expensive, but looks a bit thicker. This product helps diffuse sound, and has an aluminum backing to keep out diffused heat. It's common to put it ontop of the Peel and Seal/Quick Roof with latex caulking.
Notice above how it's placed ontop of the wheel well to reduce road noise
Also, ever notice how once you put a sub in your truck it takes up a butt-load more space, and depending on its size, can get in the way of getting to your spare? Here's a quick DIY schematic for making your own trunk floor that'll be more functional once you have a sub installed!
Basically all you have to do is trace the outline of your stock trunk floor onto 1/2" MDF, or something else of your choice. Then cut a rectangular access door for the wheel, and add hinges, as seen below:
Here is a picture of the access door open
Again, please feel free to throw your own information in this thread.
This is intended to be a living document explaining auto sound deadening for your EJ8. This information is compiled from multiple sources. The goal here is sound deaden your car for under $100 bucks and not add significant weight with the products suggested below, you can do this. Please feel free to tac on your own experiences and tricks of the trade.
Commercial auto sound deadening products, such as Dynomat, BQuiet, eDead, Fatmat, Rblocks are all essentially reproductions of housing construction grade sound deadening - aluminum foil over a butyl rubber base. There is essentially no functional difference between these products and "roof barriers" such as Peel and Seal and Quick Roof.
Roof barriers are approx 40-mil thick but Quick Roof also offers a 60-mil material called Stormblock. http://www.cofair.com/sb60.aspx. All these products have adhesive backing, which is perfect for applying to the inside of your stripped-down vehicle.
I read about how some car audio shops "stumbled" onto this solution in the '90s - it does the exact same thing as Dynamat but for about 20 percent of the cost. Honestly I think Dynamat started by repackaging similar stuff.
The 40-mil stuff is all about a buck a foot and it works really well. Double up on the firewall, the area around the rear window and rear parcel floor and the car will get real quiet inside.
Home Depot carries Quick Roof.
Lowe's carries a similar product called Peel and Seal.
Both are roofing products with adhesive backs, but apparently Quick Roof is a tad bit more effective.
I've heard, although not seen for myself, that you can do your whole car for around 65 bucks. http://www.yourautotrim.com/ has some good prices, but I'm sure there are more sources. If you were to use Dynamat, the same sound deadening would cost between $300 and $400, without any significant difference in effectiveness.
Some pictures of Civics with Peel and Seal..
Also, see this link for inside the door
It's also common to double up Peel and Seal/Quick Roof with a product called Thermozite, also known as Jute. I've found 27oz of Jute online for seven bucks. Termozite is a bit more expensive, but looks a bit thicker. This product helps diffuse sound, and has an aluminum backing to keep out diffused heat. It's common to put it ontop of the Peel and Seal/Quick Roof with latex caulking.
Notice above how it's placed ontop of the wheel well to reduce road noise
Also, ever notice how once you put a sub in your truck it takes up a butt-load more space, and depending on its size, can get in the way of getting to your spare? Here's a quick DIY schematic for making your own trunk floor that'll be more functional once you have a sub installed!
Basically all you have to do is trace the outline of your stock trunk floor onto 1/2" MDF, or something else of your choice. Then cut a rectangular access door for the wheel, and add hinges, as seen below:
Here is a picture of the access door open
Again, please feel free to throw your own information in this thread.
Using just a deadened is good for vibration, but there really is alot more to it to really do it right. Here is some good info.
www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
^^yup
