Dyno for b16a2 fully built here

apme123

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Dyno for b16a2 fully built here *UPDATED*

Hi everyone, I posted a thread about the fully built b16a2 engine
from dh-racing about a day ago, well really wanted to get that engine so I went to Dh-racing to check it out, thier up in lancaster ca near mountain high. I gotta say damn they do some nice work. I saw them dyno a natrually aspirated fully built b16a2 for the price of $2800 just for engine. I want to know if it is still worth to buy the engine and put it into a hatch.

here are the 2 dynos!
 

CRX-Fluffy

The Guy from Long Beach
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Damn that's pretty nice for a b16a2. But id rather still build up the engine myself and learn the tricks of the trades. I mean what happens when you break down in the middle of the road, are you going to know whats wrong? My point is, people who build their engine know the in's and outs of their engine and that makes the person smarter in the lon grun.
 


apme123

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
hay it come bored, honed, hot tanked, decked and fully blueprinted. Oversized Low Compression Arias Pistons, Eagle/Stock Rods. Ported Head with 3 angle Valve job i dont think ill be able to do that, and compression is a lot more then 11:1.
 

spideybusa

New Member
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by apme123
hay it come bored, honed, hot tanked, decked and fully blueprinted. Oversized Low Compression Arias Pistons, Eagle/Stock Rods. Ported Head with 3 angle Valve job i dont think ill be able to do that, and compression is a lot more then 11:1.
I say go for it. 11:1 compression is pretty good. I would like to do my own work but i am a beginner. So I will be looking for a built engine myself. :thumbs up
 

2kstreetcivic

Runnin to Redline
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by CRX-Fluffy
Damn that's pretty nice for a b16a2. But id rather still build up the engine myself and learn the tricks of the trades. I mean what happens when you break down in the middle of the road, are you going to know whats wrong? My point is, people who build their engine know the in's and outs of their engine and that makes the person smarter in the lon grun.
:werd: its one thing to have a fast car, its another thing to know how it was made fast
 

Shiznit

Stickin it to the Man
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
15+ Year Member
id rather not waste my money on something that when i sell wont get me my money back. did that make sense? if i were you then i would get it. well if i had a civic then id run down there and buy it right now. that place is only an hour away.
 

TheNotoriousMogg

CC's Public Enemy #1
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
Originally posted by spideybusa
I say go for it. 11:1 compression is pretty good. I would like to do my own work but i am a beginner. So I will be looking for a built engine myself. :thumbs up
I think 11:1 is what the ITR (b18c5) engines compression is so thats pretty tizzle ;)
 

BioHazard the Reaper

PHACM 1B
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
11:1 is good, whats teh redline on it? i guess if you actually checked out shop and what not its kewl, but what kinda warrantee does it have?
 

Handlebars

None Taken.
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
15+ Year Member
compression is a lot more then 11:1.
guys, read what he says. that c/r has to be like 13:1 to get that kind of hp, and not to mention, thats probably not whp, thats flywheel hp. it also probably redlines at somewhere well north of 10,000. get the real specs on it, ill bet that things a grenade waiting to go off. i see nothing about upgradign the full valvetrain or the bearings, which are both huge no-no's when building a motor.
 

Declectic

SeanJohn1802
Registered VIP
Registered OG
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
so how about we put this in the right forum... NA forum... not the f**kin conversation forum *moved*
 

Tommy Pickles

Unregistered User
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
10+ Year Member
First, we'll have to take his claims through the "bullshit" filter so you know what you're gonna get. If you said you saw, with your own eyes, the shop dyno a 250 hp B16A2, then I guess you know they have one for sure. But let's consider some other factors besides, the numbers okay. 250 hp @ the wheels is a monumental task for a naturally aspirated 1.6L, VTEC or not. To achieve that, it'll take crazy compression and huge cams. Something seems a little fishy and $2800 dollars seems a little "cheap" for a fully built, blueprinted, multivalve-ported monster. And already, I know the guy took some "shortcuts" in the build-up. But first, let's talk compresion...let's face it. It's gonna take sky-hi a compression to achieve 250 n/a rwhp (that's over 270 hp at the crank!). Much more than 11:1 or even 11.5:1. As a rule, running on aluminum heads, you won't be able to get much higher a compression than 12:0 on 91 octane piss. Even then, it'll take an air/fuel ratio that's gonna flood the cylinders, atleast and air/fuel ratio of 11:1 (read:RICH!) to prevent detonation. To put it another way...you'r NOT gonna make 250 rwhp on 91 octane without a lot of magical cooling additions to prevent the engine from going boom. The tuner is probably trying to sell you a pooly "assembled" engine and use a C16 eating monster to attract buyers. Or maybe he isn't lying...to a certain extent. You see here's another lie I caught from your engine builder. YOU DO NOT HOT TANK ALUMINUM BLOCKS!!!!!!!! Oh, I just thought of a fun little experiment for you. Go and tell the guy to hot-tank that little b16 and let you watch him do it. Hehehe...the caustic solution with dissolve that little engine like Alka-Seltzer in hot water. We know never to hot tank a Chevy Aluminum block, but seems like your friendly engine builder here is quite unfamilar with engine building (Yes, B-series are aluminum). And unless somebody disconvered some magical way of hot-tanking aluminum blocks...DON'T DO IT JOE!!!
 

iamgod

Banned
i say to invest in a ported head from them, they pulled 189whp from a STOCK BLOCK b16a, here is the dyno and mods



This is a dyno sheet of a B16A stock pr3 piston motor that has the original "stock" bottom-end. The modifications are listed below:

"dh" - ported head
"dh" - ported intake manifold
CTR cams
Stock valves with after-market valve springs
68mm Throttle-body
The motor makes peak power @ 9350rpm. At the drag strip, we shift it at 10,000rpm. The car runs consistent 13.1, but we have recorded a 12.9sec pass (full interior). The interior has recently been stripped, but we haven’t taken her to the strip since. We’ll keep you posted!

there you go
 


Top