Engine rebuild

[Montagnard184]

I can't believe the cost incurred because I left my original stock radiator in my recently boosted D16Y8. Anyway, it blew on a very dangerous and busy highway and I had to find a safe shoulder area. Unlike some older cars, these aluminum heads can get out of shape pretty fast. I ruined the original gasket and lost compression besides having some minor warpage. Bearings and valves seem OK at this time. I was already going to have a high-end professional rebuild done, but I was going to do it on my own time. Now the engine is all apart and I am awaiting a quote for both time and labor.

Lesson # 1: Get a decent radiator i.e. "Forged"

Now here is my 1st question: How much should a good rebuild cost with professional machining and how long should it take. The machinist told me the high end could be $2000 for labor. I also was convinced to get some CP Forged pistons instead of putting in the NPR cast pistons I already bought. In for a penny, in for a pound, eh? These will likely add another $600 at least.

My 2nd question: How much boost (Turbonetics T3/T4) can I push with a mid-grade rebuild kit with the addition of CP forged pistons, top end rings, good machine/mechanic work, Cometic MLS gasket and ARP head studs? This is my daily driver, but I want to try for 15 PSI.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

[2slo4u]

I know for a fact a stock radiator can withstand more than what your y8 was giving it. I drove around with a stock single size radiator for almost two months with my boosted b16.
It doesn't matter on how many pounds you push but how much hp and how it's tuned. I have friends who've boosted stock ls and gsr's up to 19 pounds and were perfectly fine

 

[TokyoSkies]

Just my $.02, If the cost is that high for rebuilding, get rid of your single cam, and go to a dual cam (I'd recommend doing a low comp boost-ready GSR). The D16's top out around 250whp without dumping a ton of money into them, whereas I was making 310whp on a near stock LS at 10psi, with only $400 into the engine itself (ARP headstuds, rods, new bearings, no pistons though). If they're quoting you some $2k price range, A) That's ridiculous (a local machine shop here in Southern California quoted me $400 for a complete rebuild using OEM-spec parts), and B) a swap is much more economical.
You're in AZ, and from what I remember, you don't have smog restrictions, and you don't have to BAR stuff out there, correct? If that's the case, you're a prime candidate for this. All you'd really have to do to mod your turbo kit is get a new exhaust manifold, and a few steel braided lines for oil feed and return.
Once again, just my $.02, and from my boost experiences, B-series motors hold up much, much better. Good luck, though!

 

[Montagnard184]

It may not have been the boost that caused the radiator issue, but the extra heat sure didn't help after the radiator blew.

Thanks. I had a choice....the local machine shop with Billiy Bob or the high-end performance build shop where the regional race teams send some large displacement stuff. Yes, I probably should have went B16 along time ago, but I have too much in this already. I burned out everything and my wonderful aluminum engine didn't like it. It is a little warped. Once I get out of the Army and get a real garage, maybe I'll keep a spare engine, or at least top end, around.

I have the manifold and the braided lines, so I'll start ratcheting up the PSI when I get everything back together.

 

[Butterz]

It depends on what's gone wrong. If you just spun a couple bearings, it shouldn't cost any more than a $1000.

I had my D16A rebuilt and it cost me $550 taxes in. That's including:
- Crank polished
- New bearings
- New seals
- New piston rings
- Honed Cylinder walls
- Block assembly

I also gave them a stripped block so I saved some money there aswell.

Something to consider; you could probably get another D16Y8 at a junkyard for like $300. The advantage to spending the extra to get it rebuilt is it will essentially be a 0km bottom end.

On another note, your stock rad can handle your boosted D series without a problem. Maybe explain what you mean by 'Blown' and I might be able to give you some insight as to what happened.

 

[Montagnard184]

No real mystery based on all your replies. The original stock radiator took a crap. Regardless of all the heat, it went down in a dangerous place and I had to drive a short distance to get to a shoulder. I warped the head out about .05. Either way, all rebuilt now. If anybody is familiar with Koerner Racing in Tucson, AZ.....that is who did it. Thanks for all the advice.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

 

[emerican]

so is it rebuilt with boost back on it? if so hows it doing and whats the whp nimber? boost number?

 

[Montagnard184]

Engine going in this week. The only thing didn't change was the rods. I would love to get over 300 whp. We'll see. Going to Dyno as soon as I get a chance. Still setup on base chrome. Planning on getting Hondata before dyno.

What boost do you think I can push with built engine (stock piston rods) ?

 

[Hecz]

I know for a fact a stock radiator can withstand more than what your y8 was giving it. I drove around with a stock single size radiator for almost two months with my boosted b16.
It doesn't matter on how many pounds you push but how much hp and how it's tuned. I have friends who've boosted stock ls and gsr's up to 19 pounds and were perfectly fine

Yea man. I once even used a stock radiator with no fan. It was not smart, but it was done. Had to blast the heater tho.

 

[ilovemyb16]

i had blown a radiator in my turbo d16y8 but that was only cuz my fan seized up...i bought a stock fan and radiator and hav not had any problems with it...it is only runnin 8 pounds right now but it needs to be tuned again...i got 9:1 pistons arp studs and i hav had a bunch of guys tell me that i should be at like 350 hp and maybe 15 psi...