Front brakes grabbing / staying on 92 civic need info!!!

myposhonda44

New Member
5+ Year Member
I have a 92 honda civic ex with 4 disk brakes and abs.

i have this problem ware after 5 minutes of driving the car the front brakes start to grab. Eventually the brakes get so bad i can't drive the car and the front brakes are glowing red and smoking i have replaced the front brake pads 3 times because of burning them up.

so far i have replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, both front calipers and front brake lines, and brake rotors are brand new (went threw 2 used abs units)-new ones are 700 bucks, than i have bleed the heck out of the brake system

i have replaced all of the breaking system and don't know what to do. any help would be great

:(
 

RonJ

Banned
Clogged/bad ABS modulator unit?

Did you bleed the system like this:

 


myposhonda44

New Member
5+ Year Member
Yes i bleed the heck out of the brakes and i do have good flow from each of the brake bleeders at each calliper.

Problem is where am i spost to get this abs checker thing and the special tool to bleed the abs??
 


BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
you get an ABS booster? the plungers are different. i did an abs delete on my cb7 and long story short, i didnt get the change the booster, and the plunger is different. it kept pressure on my mastercylinder as if i was hitting the brakes. even before i knew hwat was wrong, i adjusted the push rod, made the special tool and everything. took me a week, untill i swapped the booster too a non abs one and re adjusted the push rod, and its perfect.

just a suggestion
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
honestly man, just do an ABS delete. i save like 60 lbs all together from what all i weighed, which wasnt all of it. i even stripped the wires from the harness and that alone was 10lbs.

its simple too do.
 

myposhonda44

New Member
5+ Year Member
what do i need to do an abs delete?? Also I replaced the brake booster with a brand new brake booster i dont understand also i dumped 2 cans of brake fluid out of the old booster? Do i have the wrong part or something?
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
i understand you replaced the booster man, but people make mistakes. they could have packaged the wrong one.

abs delete is super simple. this is where you can upgrade. ive never owned an eg longer than 2 days so i dont know the upgrades.

you will need:

EG Non abs booster and mastercylinder. (just get the booster from the yard. and like you did before, new m/c.

4040 valve from da integra or non abs dc integra should work. has rear disks with no abs. the abs....thingy is basically a distribution block. most abs systems leak. its (with the cb7's) a $0.14 o ring inside the pump. which you need a special tool too get out, and the dealer wants like $500 to fix it.

and the brake lines that run from the mastercylinder too the prop valve and front brakes. i only needed 4 on my cb7.


thats it man. they all just go right together. no confusion.

TIP: (this was done on my cb7 but is the same concept)

take a pic of the lines at the junk yard with your cell and mark them by scratching them or marking them with a sharpie.

re-thread the lines and prop valve. makes it easier.

take off your intake manifold. makes reaching the lines way easier.

thats it bruh. just plug and play. then pull all the s**t off the suspension, from under the hood, the abs computer and wires running too it, and the bulb from the cluster.

weigh it all. itll add up. then i cut the harness for the abs computer which was located in the trunk of my accord, and pulled all the wires for the abs, i went from like 16 wires i think, down to 2. one for the door jam switch (only 1, coupe) and one for the.......sending unit or fuel pump cnat remember. OH and i htink like 1 ground.


take it into consideration. the abs unit is awesome if it works, but most likesly doesnt. and its expensive too ahve fixed.
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
what do i need to do an abs delete?? Also I replaced the brake booster with a brand new brake booster i dont understand also i dumped 2 cans of brake fluid out of the old booster? Do i have the wrong part or something?
i just noticed something........you dumped fluid out of the booster? im not being a smartass i promise, but i dont hink theres any fluid in the booster at all, cause it runs off the vaccum (sp) hose that houses your check valve. eg's have check valves?
 

RonJ

Banned
Brake fluid inside the booster would almost surely come from the master cylinder. The check valve is for the vacuum system not the hydraulic system.
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
Brake fluid inside the booster would almost surely come from the master cylinder. The check valve is for the vacuum system not the hydraulic system.
i know that man, but i mean theres isnt suppose too be right? and i understand the check valve, thats why thers not suppose too be fluid in the booster cause itd get sucked into the motor.
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
but i dont know what a booster looks like inside, didnt know if it has seperate sections for air and fliud. iunno.
 

civicSIcoupe

All Day, Every Day
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
make sure you clean your sliders and put a hell of a lot of anti-seize/lube on your sliders, check your calipers piston too, idk what else to say that already hasnt been said :what:
 

RonJ

Banned
but i dont know what a booster looks like inside, didnt know if it has seperate sections for air and fliud. iunno.
The brake booster and the master cylinder are separate components. The master cylinder contains fluid but the brake booster does not and instead has a chamber to create vacuum. If there is any fluid inside the brake booster, it would most likely come from a leak in the master cylinder as these two components are connected.
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
The brake booster and the master cylinder are separate components. The master cylinder contains fluid but the brake booster does not and instead has a chamber to create vacuum. If there is any fluid inside the brake booster, it would most likely come from a leak in the master cylinder as these two components are connected.
exactly what i was thinking. thanks for the clarification.
 

myposhonda44

New Member
5+ Year Member
Im still haveing this problem, stupid questin but, Dose the new brake booster come already with the piston / push rod adjusted or do i need to adjust it? Can a bad abs unit cause this because i have gone threw 3 of them now and still have the same problem.

Im thinking its gota be the brake booster push rod lenth. But i dont know
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
honestly id try another booster first. too adjust it, you have too make a tool, turn the rod likw 1/32'nd of an inch, tighten it back up without f**king it up, then drive the car and see if it stops. its a HUGE pain in the ass. honestly if i had too do it again......id part the car. im serious. BUT worse case, adjust it. ill see if i can find you the link. the push rod is on the clutch pedal.


OH!! i think i have video of what im talking about when i was trying too diagnose my cb7.
 

BlindSniper

New Member
5+ Year Member
cant find video, but heres your link big guy.


http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/adjustment.html

have fun, and god speed.

tips!!!!!

1. Take out your driver seat. youll be spending a lot of time under there.

2. when you adjust it, park on a real slight hill. no need too drive around. just go forward and backward a few times. youll figure it out. its very simple, BUT TEDIOUS!!!!!!!

3. youll see the adjusment section too actually adjust the hight of your break pedal itself, adjust it all the way up, towards you for the time being. itll give you more room. im a small guy, so it was cool for me. but if your average size..........squeeze!!! lol

4. DONT USE GENERIC TOOLS!!!! the wrench you will have too cut, has too be quality. if not it doesnt cut right and distorts from the heat. plus when you try too break it loose, itll stretch and almost strip it. just buck up, an spend the money on 1 good wrench. the other can be generic.

5. DO NOT FORGET THE WHITE OUT TIP!!!! THATS WHY IT TOOK ME FOREVER!!!.

if it is the wrong combo, ie NON abs mc and abs mc (and vice versa) it will not work!! i had an abs booster with non abs mc and no matter how much i adjusted it, it wasnt enough. the plunger itself (the rod that sticks out when the mc is off) was simply too long.i went from one end too the other. it took me a week of f**king with it.
 


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