good tune
- Thread starter SickEk
- Start date
you could get a full standalone, or a decent piggyback like emange, and get ok results, but for a stock civic block, its not "ONLY" 10 psi, its "10 PSI!!!!!!!!" as in thats about all a stock block can handle. (also just a small tip, psi really doesnt mean anything, CFM does and hp in turn, not psi, cuz psi on a .63 is a lil diff then psi on a 15g
Please don't base your goals on psi, shoot for a HP goal, then a right turbo setup can be choosen. But RSKier is right, psi is only preasure. CFM is the actual flow of air going into the engine. obd1 is alot easier to tune, obd2 can be done with more money.
Chris.
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RKSskier said:
Please someone explain to me where everyone is getting that AFC hacks advance timing?
Changing the VTEC crossover point on a VAFC does not advance the timing, simply changes the engagement point.AFC hacks worked based off running larer injectors, and pulling enough fuel out to drop the MAP voltage to the point that if you were to hit around 10 psi of boost your voltage would only be that of what it would normally be under naturally aspirated conditions.
AFC hacks aren't recommended unless you have atleast a adjustable FPR, wideband O2, pyrometer, upgraded fuel pump and DSM 450's.
Honda-tech... read up kids.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137901&page=1
vafc & safc are piggy back FUEL control units not an engine management system for a boosted honda with aftermarket injectors.
when u run an safc you trick the ecu into thinking its at a different map sensor value. that produces a change in fuel AND ignition values. the safc when tuned properly will adjust for fuel properly(in theory), but what about the changes that have happened to ignition? its running on n/a values
that post you linked is from 5 years ago i think honda tuning has come a long way. with so many engine management options available to hondas there no reason to look at a vafc. hondata s100 with boost is cheaper than a vafc and a much more reliable setup!
when u run an safc you trick the ecu into thinking its at a different map sensor value. that produces a change in fuel AND ignition values. the safc when tuned properly will adjust for fuel properly(in theory), but what about the changes that have happened to ignition? its running on n/a values
that post you linked is from 5 years ago i think honda tuning has come a long way. with so many engine management options available to hondas there no reason to look at a vafc. hondata s100 with boost is cheaper than a vafc and a much more reliable setup!
+1 He's right, also AFC's don't accomidate for more fuel. They increase more preasure yes, but doing so also decreases flow rate from the pump. And if there isn't a ignition system that doesn't adjust timming according to preasure increases; you get to play with blowing a hole in the block. An also, if the "missing link" setup get's used also, any preasure above 0 psi. The ECU is blind to what is happening, except for the 02 sensor, so the ECU is going to tune by the stock mapping(n/a).
MSD Boost Master Timing Retard.
By pulling that much fuel out with the AFC, it drops the MAP sensor voltage and sends less fuel, however with larger injectors (DSM 450's) and a adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set @ 40psi) you can compensate the dropped voltage. The only thing to deal with the is the ignition timing under boost, which is where the MSD box comes into play. Pulling .5 to 1 degree of retard is the common amount per psi of ignition timing.
If this is such a dumb idea why are SRT-4 .50 trim owners using this exact same setup to tune all their cars to 400+whp? Same concept, they borrowed it from the Honda community since the only ECU tuning option they have is AEM EMS.
By pulling that much fuel out with the AFC, it drops the MAP sensor voltage and sends less fuel, however with larger injectors (DSM 450's) and a adjustable fuel pressure regulator (set @ 40psi) you can compensate the dropped voltage. The only thing to deal with the is the ignition timing under boost, which is where the MSD box comes into play. Pulling .5 to 1 degree of retard is the common amount per psi of ignition timing.
If this is such a dumb idea why are SRT-4 .50 trim owners using this exact same setup to tune all their cars to 400+whp? Same concept, they borrowed it from the Honda community since the only ECU tuning option they have is AEM EMS.
well...looks like they don't have a choice to tune right, . ie...remapping the ecu. until some programers can crack it. But a srt-4? it doesn't need to last. But, by all means; if you wanna shorten your engine life, please do so.
Yea, f**k the SRT-4's. I have a few buddies with them but I'm not impressed by a car that was originally built to be stupid fast.
As for the AFC Hack, I'm going to be attempting it as a temporary fix until I can my money together to buy Hondata S300. Theres been more than ALOT of people who used AFC hacks and had the engines last a long time. However there are those that apparently have no sense of precautionary measure, like no using a wideband, pyrometer, adjustable FPR, etc.
As for the AFC Hack, I'm going to be attempting it as a temporary fix until I can my money together to buy Hondata S300. Theres been more than ALOT of people who used AFC hacks and had the engines last a long time. However there are those that apparently have no sense of precautionary measure, like no using a wideband, pyrometer, adjustable FPR, etc.
Wow, some serious tuning.
you're going to run an afc AND an msd retard module or just the afc? big difference. and why get an afc, when u get can s100 with boost, or crome CHEAPER Than the vafc i dont get it.
also an afc on an already boosted car imo is much different than a honda. the ecu already has figures for boost, and can compensate to a much further extent than a stock honda ecu.
its ok for bpu cars ie dsm's, srt4's with a 50 trim, take a little timing out....add a little fuel. the honda ecu has no values in boost its all on the afc now.
its def not ok for hondas not because it wont work but because theres sooo many better choices for cheaper.
also an afc on an already boosted car imo is much different than a honda. the ecu already has figures for boost, and can compensate to a much further extent than a stock honda ecu.
its ok for bpu cars ie dsm's, srt4's with a 50 trim, take a little timing out....add a little fuel. the honda ecu has no values in boost its all on the afc now.
its def not ok for hondas not because it wont work but because theres sooo many better choices for cheaper.
Right, the reason the SRT4s and crap can use the AFC is they are already have boost maps, and have some sort of safe ignition timing, not to mention the OBD2 knock sensor tables which pretty much won't let you blow the car up if you try.
But the SAFC and MSD box is just a "guess" of where you actual ignition timing is at. If you are not on the verge of maxing out the map sensor, AFTER taking out the fuel, then you aren't even where the N/A full throttle values would be. In a sense, you would have to tune the ignition retard with the box and most of the time it will be more than a 1 degree retard.
But there is absolutely no reason to do such a thing on a honda motor, like suggested above.
But the SAFC and MSD box is just a "guess" of where you actual ignition timing is at. If you are not on the verge of maxing out the map sensor, AFTER taking out the fuel, then you aren't even where the N/A full throttle values would be. In a sense, you would have to tune the ignition retard with the box and most of the time it will be more than a 1 degree retard.
But there is absolutely no reason to do such a thing on a honda motor, like suggested above.
just get some bigger injectors and tune the ecu yourself using a turbo program: crome, uberdata, turboedit, neptune, whatever fits your OBD.....thats the best way i would go....other than dyno tuning....but what ive read is you should street tune it....then go to the dyno....