That doesn't make any sense to me. Who told you this? First, a stock p28 will make a B16 run like poop. Could this be the reason you think you don't have vtec? If you haven't already, you're going to need that thing chipped with a p30 base map to at least make you run like a p2t would do. And why aren't you running a p2t anyway? Most people that go ob1 do so because they need advanced tuning from going with a boost set up and Hondata. If you think you're gaining anything from sticking a stock p28 in there, you've heard some bad information. Also, not all p28's are the same. Be sure you're not running an Automatic ECU (I assume you're manual) but if you are, it can be modified easily. Though I'm not sure if an auto would even run in a manual car or what'd it do? Never tried I guess. If it does at least let your car start and move, that could also be the cause of your problems. Do a quick check if you aren't sure which you have.
Here is a quick cheat sheet of auto/manual p28 codes:
92-5 ECUs P28-..... (pick from the list below)
5spd = 000, 001, 002, 003, A00, A01, A02, C00, C01, C02, J00, J01, J02
Auto = J50, J51, 901, 902, C50, C51, C52, A50, A51, A52
As I mentioned before, your jumper harness should take care of moving your OBD2 VTEC pins to the correct location of VTEC on OBD1. That's the point of the jumper harness. They're supposed to be plug and play. If you have one that someone messed up, well that's a different story. There is no pins on a p28 that can jumper vtec pins across each other. It doesn't work that way. If you really believe your vtec isn't working, try running a jumper wire DIRECTLY to your vtec solenoid and pressure switch. That will solve your question once and for all. The pins to run from were posted at the top of this thread. DO NOT MIX THEM UP.
And again, if you're running a stock p28, that's going to be a problem. Fix that first before you go jumping wires and making things more difficult.