My engine bay Cleanup. Full write-up. By popular demand!! *pics*
By popular demand, I have Made a list of what I did to clean-up my engine bay. Hope it helps you out.
Then LS turbo
Now Swapped in a B18C
Besides the obvious swap from LS turbo to stock GSR
Removed
* AC (ALL components, wires, and lines)
* PS (ALL components, wires, and lines)
* Drag 3 turbo (and ALL components, wires, and lines) from the LS
* ITR radiator (replaced w/ stock civic radiator, and single Fal slimline fan)
* Washer fluid resivior
* Stereo circuit breaker
Relocated
* ALL wiring from wiring harness
-Wiring moved from on top and across fender well, to underneath chassis, and outside of the engine bay. Between the fender and engine bay.
* Headlight wiring
-For both sides, I cut the headlight wiring, and ran it through a little hole in the chassis behind the headlamp assembly. Then I connected the wiring using solderless butt connectors, then heat wrapped it with black heat wrap.
* Radiator catch can
-I took off the front facia, and attached the can to the center radiator support, on the passenger side in front of the radiator, using black gardener's plastic coated wire. All that was needed after that was a hose long enough to reach it.This will not affect cooling enough to even matter. I have not seen ANY rise in tempature.
* Brake booster vaccume hose and check valve
-I bought a line of hose long enough to run underneath the booster and up to the intake manifold (approx 24"). I then used a pair of pliers to rotate the fitting on the top of the intake manifold to face down to better hide the hose. Be careful while doing this as not to break it off. I have noticed that on some engines, it is almost impossible to move without breaking.
* ALL battery wiring
-I removed the battery and all mounting hardware. I moved all wiring behind the battery and underneath the mount. I ran the negative wire behind, and around the passenger side to the fender wall. I moved the positive power wire behind and underneath the battery. Then up to the fuse block. I moved the positive starter wire behind and underneath the battery, under the chassis, and to the starter. (see Replaced section for new wire treatment)
* ALL misc. motor wiring (including; distributor, O2 sensor, VTEC, and GSR intake secondary wiring)
-Heat wrapped, and moved as close to the motor, and under the intake manifold, as possible, using black zip-ties.
* Fuel injector wiring
-While fuel rail was off (see Painted section) I disconnected the injector wiring. I removed all of the stock heat wrap from the injector wiring, pulled out as much as I could through the harness, and re-wrapped it with heat wrap. This lengthened the wiring just enough. I then ran each wire and connector as follows: I ran the wire for cylinder #1 (going from left to right) through the 1 & 2 runner. #2 through the 2 & 3 runner. #3 through the 3 & 4 runner. #4 on the outside of the #4 runner.I put back on the fuel rail, leaving the wiring underneath, and plugged the injectors back in. You will have to spin the injectors so that the connector is pointing at the driver (kinda diagonal-right).
Replaced
* ITR radiator for smaller, stock radiator
* Top radiator bracket
-I removed the stock radiator bracket. I cut a short length of metal plumbers tape and bent it to shape. This is a lot smaller and, in my opinion, looks much better. Then I attached it in place of the original.
* STR oil cap for stock oil cap
* Battery terminals (my little secret
. If you really want to know what terminals I used, PM me)
* ALL battery wiring
-I used 0 gauge, Stinger ground wire (completley covered in heat wrap) with stinger gold connectors on everything.
* ALL ground wires
-I used 0-4 gauge stinger ground wire, completley heat wrapped in black, with stinger gold conectors.
* Red 8mm spark plug wires for stock black wires
Painted
* Engine bay
* Valve cover (Complete Write-up: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=622687 )
* Spark plug wire cover
* Fuel Rail
* Fuel pressure regulator
* Cap on the passenger side of fuel rail
* VTEC solenoid
* Battery
* Battery hold down
* Master cylinder
* Clutch resivior bracket
* Intake manifold diaphram (top left)
* ALL motor mounts
* Exaust heat shield
* Radiator
* Radiator cap
* Radiator hold down bracket (see Replaced section)
* Hood latch (will not affect functionality)
* Tranny fluid line bracket (lower left)
* ALL brake lines
* ALL fuel lines
Materials used
* Paint
-Duplicolor 1200 degree engine enamel (satin black)
-Duplicolor black textureized paint (valve cover)
-Any Primer
* Paint stripping
-Aircraft paint remover (spray)
-GOOD pair of anti-corrosion gloves
-Fine grit wet sanding paper
* Wiring
-0 to 4 gauge Stinger ground wire
-Stinger gold wire connectors
-Black heat wrap
-Black electrical tape
-Black zip ties
* Misc.
-Metal plumbers tape
-Any masking tape for painting
-Simple Green spray for degreasing
-Hose from any auto parts store
-I replaced all nuts and bolts that I could with new, black ones from the hardware store
If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or email me @ NickQuisenberry@yahoo.com
By popular demand, I have Made a list of what I did to clean-up my engine bay. Hope it helps you out.
Then LS turbo
Now Swapped in a B18C
Besides the obvious swap from LS turbo to stock GSR
Removed
* AC (ALL components, wires, and lines)
* PS (ALL components, wires, and lines)
* Drag 3 turbo (and ALL components, wires, and lines) from the LS
* ITR radiator (replaced w/ stock civic radiator, and single Fal slimline fan)
* Washer fluid resivior
* Stereo circuit breaker
Relocated
* ALL wiring from wiring harness
-Wiring moved from on top and across fender well, to underneath chassis, and outside of the engine bay. Between the fender and engine bay.
* Headlight wiring
-For both sides, I cut the headlight wiring, and ran it through a little hole in the chassis behind the headlamp assembly. Then I connected the wiring using solderless butt connectors, then heat wrapped it with black heat wrap.
* Radiator catch can
-I took off the front facia, and attached the can to the center radiator support, on the passenger side in front of the radiator, using black gardener's plastic coated wire. All that was needed after that was a hose long enough to reach it.This will not affect cooling enough to even matter. I have not seen ANY rise in tempature.
* Brake booster vaccume hose and check valve
-I bought a line of hose long enough to run underneath the booster and up to the intake manifold (approx 24"). I then used a pair of pliers to rotate the fitting on the top of the intake manifold to face down to better hide the hose. Be careful while doing this as not to break it off. I have noticed that on some engines, it is almost impossible to move without breaking.
* ALL battery wiring
-I removed the battery and all mounting hardware. I moved all wiring behind the battery and underneath the mount. I ran the negative wire behind, and around the passenger side to the fender wall. I moved the positive power wire behind and underneath the battery. Then up to the fuse block. I moved the positive starter wire behind and underneath the battery, under the chassis, and to the starter. (see Replaced section for new wire treatment)
* ALL misc. motor wiring (including; distributor, O2 sensor, VTEC, and GSR intake secondary wiring)
-Heat wrapped, and moved as close to the motor, and under the intake manifold, as possible, using black zip-ties.
* Fuel injector wiring
-While fuel rail was off (see Painted section) I disconnected the injector wiring. I removed all of the stock heat wrap from the injector wiring, pulled out as much as I could through the harness, and re-wrapped it with heat wrap. This lengthened the wiring just enough. I then ran each wire and connector as follows: I ran the wire for cylinder #1 (going from left to right) through the 1 & 2 runner. #2 through the 2 & 3 runner. #3 through the 3 & 4 runner. #4 on the outside of the #4 runner.I put back on the fuel rail, leaving the wiring underneath, and plugged the injectors back in. You will have to spin the injectors so that the connector is pointing at the driver (kinda diagonal-right).
Replaced
* ITR radiator for smaller, stock radiator
* Top radiator bracket
-I removed the stock radiator bracket. I cut a short length of metal plumbers tape and bent it to shape. This is a lot smaller and, in my opinion, looks much better. Then I attached it in place of the original.
* STR oil cap for stock oil cap
* Battery terminals (my little secret
. If you really want to know what terminals I used, PM me)* ALL battery wiring
-I used 0 gauge, Stinger ground wire (completley covered in heat wrap) with stinger gold connectors on everything.
* ALL ground wires
-I used 0-4 gauge stinger ground wire, completley heat wrapped in black, with stinger gold conectors.
* Red 8mm spark plug wires for stock black wires
Painted
* Engine bay
* Valve cover (Complete Write-up: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=622687 )
* Spark plug wire cover
* Fuel Rail
* Fuel pressure regulator
* Cap on the passenger side of fuel rail
* VTEC solenoid
* Battery
* Battery hold down
* Master cylinder
* Clutch resivior bracket
* Intake manifold diaphram (top left)
* ALL motor mounts
* Exaust heat shield
* Radiator
* Radiator cap
* Radiator hold down bracket (see Replaced section)
* Hood latch (will not affect functionality)
* Tranny fluid line bracket (lower left)
* ALL brake lines
* ALL fuel lines
Materials used
* Paint
-Duplicolor 1200 degree engine enamel (satin black)
-Duplicolor black textureized paint (valve cover)
-Any Primer
* Paint stripping
-Aircraft paint remover (spray)
-GOOD pair of anti-corrosion gloves
-Fine grit wet sanding paper
* Wiring
-0 to 4 gauge Stinger ground wire
-Stinger gold wire connectors
-Black heat wrap
-Black electrical tape
-Black zip ties
* Misc.
-Metal plumbers tape
-Any masking tape for painting
-Simple Green spray for degreasing
-Hose from any auto parts store
-I replaced all nuts and bolts that I could with new, black ones from the hardware store
If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or email me @ NickQuisenberry@yahoo.com