softciy
Respected
What the heck is going on? I cant figure out why Cruise isnt working.
I am installing OEM Cruise on my 92 Hatchback with SRS.
I have tested three used Cruise actuators with the following method:
You'll need power to complete the test. I found it convenient to pull one of the leads out of my digital voltmeter, unplug the two-pin distributer harness, and shove the lead in the blk/yel pin.
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the third position (Key On, Engine Off).
Test One
Ground black and touch power to white. You should hear the actuator lock so you can't pull the cable.
[this test I get these results for each of the three used ones i tested
Test Two
Ground black and blue. Touch power to brown. The actuator should push the cable out.
[this test I hear the motor but its not pushing the cable at all.
Test Three
Ground black and brown. Pull on the cable so the linkage is in a middle position. Touch power to blue. The actuator should pull the cable in.
[same result...motor make noise but no movement]
I further tried Honda's tests as follows.
EXCEPT !! I just searched for this troubleshoot diagram and I saw on this copy at the top that it says to test the connector UNPLUGGED from the unit! First time I have seen that. I have been testing with it connectd.
So,
Tests 3 and test 4 both fail. Fuse good, replaced set resume again (junk yard), and slip ring(junk yard) again. continuity test are good.
Test 10 fails also. I replaced the little dim circuit board in the dash console, and tested it with a multi meter. Continuity and ground are good. Bulb and fuse good.
Test 11. I dont see how test 11 is different than 12. Is it the same test, are they combining two things?
tests12, as soon as I touch the positive to BRN/WHT the FUEL PUMP( or something in the engine like that comes on) ( I accidentally had the Cruise Actuator DISCONNECTED and making the mentioned connection turned on something under the hood. So I wasnt even hooked up to the Actuator anyway but something was caused to turn on. ??? WTF??
Leaving BRN/WHT hooked to power and then connecting BRN/BLK gave same result. Whatever was running under the hood was still running. Continuity is good.
Test 13 is basically the exact same test as 12 as far as I can see with the results. Something runs as soon as I touch brn/wht. I tested continuity, and ground are good.
Now I need to go retest all over again with the connector removed from the CCU to see if I get any different results.
Anyone have any suggestions as to what the heck was running? Its like it was the ignition or starter or something, like when you normally go to start the car it makes a noise like this.
I am installing OEM Cruise on my 92 Hatchback with SRS.
I have tested three used Cruise actuators with the following method:
You'll need power to complete the test. I found it convenient to pull one of the leads out of my digital voltmeter, unplug the two-pin distributer harness, and shove the lead in the blk/yel pin.
Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the third position (Key On, Engine Off).
Test One
Ground black and touch power to white. You should hear the actuator lock so you can't pull the cable.
[this test I get these results for each of the three used ones i tested
Test Two
Ground black and blue. Touch power to brown. The actuator should push the cable out.
[this test I hear the motor but its not pushing the cable at all.
Test Three
Ground black and brown. Pull on the cable so the linkage is in a middle position. Touch power to blue. The actuator should pull the cable in.
[same result...motor make noise but no movement]
I further tried Honda's tests as follows.
EXCEPT !! I just searched for this troubleshoot diagram and I saw on this copy at the top that it says to test the connector UNPLUGGED from the unit! First time I have seen that. I have been testing with it connectd.
So,
Tests 3 and test 4 both fail. Fuse good, replaced set resume again (junk yard), and slip ring(junk yard) again. continuity test are good.
Test 10 fails also. I replaced the little dim circuit board in the dash console, and tested it with a multi meter. Continuity and ground are good. Bulb and fuse good.
Test 11. I dont see how test 11 is different than 12. Is it the same test, are they combining two things?
tests12, as soon as I touch the positive to BRN/WHT the FUEL PUMP( or something in the engine like that comes on) ( I accidentally had the Cruise Actuator DISCONNECTED and making the mentioned connection turned on something under the hood. So I wasnt even hooked up to the Actuator anyway but something was caused to turn on. ??? WTF??
Leaving BRN/WHT hooked to power and then connecting BRN/BLK gave same result. Whatever was running under the hood was still running. Continuity is good.
Test 13 is basically the exact same test as 12 as far as I can see with the results. Something runs as soon as I touch brn/wht. I tested continuity, and ground are good.
Now I need to go retest all over again with the connector removed from the CCU to see if I get any different results.
Anyone have any suggestions as to what the heck was running? Its like it was the ignition or starter or something, like when you normally go to start the car it makes a noise like this.