ls or b20 turbo?

[stealthy]

ok i know i know...."search" but honestly i jus want simple responses with helpfull information without me having to search and read over a million posts....

i'm looking to buy a eg hatch and swap a motor with plans of doing nothingbut drag racing for the most part. i'd like to know what setup would be best for the application. i was gonna go gsr bc i love vtec but i know the cylinder walls on the gsr aren't so great for turboing. at first i thought about turboing decreasing reliabillity but decided that shouldn't be an issue on a car at the track 95% of the time.....so i was thinking either turbo ls or turbo b20, the b20 has lower hp but higher torque (keep in mind i'm goin for 1/4 mile not top end speed)...is one better than the other to turbo, or should i build up the "lesser" motor to be able to handle it better in hopes to achieve more power in the end? any help, suggestions, or comments are appreciated, i'm open to all ideas and want to hear what your preferred drag setup would be(and dont say a turbo f20, i'm talking more in the price range of a b20 turbo,ls turbo,gsr etc....)

oh yeah, and would the b20 swap be more work than what its worth?harder than a b18 swap?

 

[Handlebars]

b20 is harder. you need to source a ls manifold, a new tranny, and various other parts. the b20 block is a bit different, its missing some ports and sensors taht the ls has, making it harder to do the swap. ls is just plug and play (more or less). as for boost, ive said it once and ill say it again- any b series motor is good for about 300 whp or so if you tune it right. if ultimate cylinder wall strength is what your after, the b18 has thicker sleeves than the b20 (81mm bore vs 84 mm bore, duh). however, because of the added displacment, a b20 spools the turbo faster and makes more power with less boost.

one final note- if your building a drag car, why a civic.. why not a car that actually is a decent dragger, like a dsm or a domestic?

 

[bklynEG]

i say b18b bored and, sleeved.... some b20b's actually came with a low manifold. we got two at work right now. holla if you want one.

 

[SeanMc300]

the b20 isnt harder...just more time consuming. first off, if you boost a b20, you gotta resleeve it. the prices for longblocks are about the same for a b20 and a b18b. sohfast.com has alot of stuff youll need. you can get everything there.

 

[Handlebars]

you dont have to sleeve a b20 to boost.. im tired of people saying that. if you want 400 whp, you have to sleeve. if you want 270, the stock ones work fine. there are people on h-t running 350+ whp on stock b20s.

 

[stealthy]

thanks for the input guys....as for why i am choosing a civic to drag, i just like hondas i guess, and if you can get respect out of a fwd 4 cyl. more power to you, idk its just something i've been wanting to do for a long time

so right now i'm thinking of an ls over b20....with that said, do you think it'd cost more to build up a n/a gsr to that of the power a turboed ls would have?

 

[stealthy]

according to hmotorsonline.......

30007 - B18B 94-01 (LS) Complete Change Over
145Hp 127Trq 9.4 Compression (JDM)
142Hp 127Trq 9.2 Compression (USDM)
$ 2200.00 Plus shipping and handling.


30009 - B18C 94-95 (GSR) Complete Change Over
180Hp 126Trq 10.6 Compression (JDM)
170Hp 121Trq 10.1 Compression (USDM)
$ 3149.00 Plus shipping and handling.


it seems to me that with the price of an ls and a turbo(roughly $1000) it'd be better to do a turbo ls as opposed to an n/a gsr, i'm sure i'd be getting more power, plus the ls has more trq, so it seems that'd be the way to go.....yay or nay?

and to throw out another option....

30016 - H22A 92-95 Complete Change Over
200Hp 161Trq 10.6 Compression (JDM)
190Hp 156Trq 10.0 Compression (USDM)
$ 2199.00 Plus shipping and handling.

but they are so heavy....

 

[Handlebars]

wow.. im speechless. you have 1100 posts and you dont know how to use the search function or even read a few threads down. if you cant take 30 seconds to search, then no one is going to answer your question. locked.