My 92 EG, The Boosted Boo Hatch

[A]]Th!ngSound]

Hello CC, and welcome to my build thread. I figured that it was about time to start one of these up. I'll begin by giving a brief history of the car.

A buddy of mine told me someone was trying to get rid of it. It was the typical (and sad) story of "Girlfriend doesn't want me to have a project, so its gotta go". 1992 Civic CX hatchback, white with mint blue interior. It had a knocking D16Y8 swap in it, and the owner mentioned that it was recently fitted with brand new HID's in some 1 piece halo headlights and a new Sony CD player. He also said it was slammed and felt like eBay suspension. I went out to pick it up for 600 bucks.

I tore out the single jingle and inspected what was salvageable of the engine. Good Y8 head? 100 bucks. Good Y7 trans? 100 bucks. Good P28 ECU? another 100 bucks! I then looked over the tires that were on it.

Stock 13's, painted dark purple with 85%ish tread. It took me a while but I sold the set of 4 for $50.
I had to grab these from a friend when he mentioned he didn't want them anymore:

Grabbed some BWR white lug nuts to compliment them (I feel) nicely.

After a good cleaning, I took a picture of the side. It unfortunately has cancer in the usual places on the back quarters.

So... goals and mods? I wanted a really fun street car that has a little flash to it. Horsepower could be 550 to 600 and I'd be really happy with it.

B18C1
Dart block
GSR crank, micro-polished and knife edged
ACL race bearings
ARP rod bolts
Eagle I beam rods
Wiseco 8.5:1 pistons
Moroso oil pan
Modified oil pickup
ATI race super damper
Gates racing timing belt

B16 head
Port n Polished
Edelbrock Victor X manifold
Edelbrock 70mm throttlebody
Hondata 4 bar MAP
ARP headstuds
Crower springs, retainers
Ferrea oversized valves
Skunk2 LMA's
GSR cams
Skunk2 Camgears

LS trans
MFactory LSD
Synchrotech carbon synchros
Hardened sliders
ACT stage 5 6 puck sprung clutch kit
ACT 12 lb. flywheel
ARP bolts
Innovative shift linkage
Password:JDM shift bushings
Skunk2 dual bend

Fuel
AEM stealth fuel rail and regulator
ID2000's
Aeromotive 340 LPH pump

Boost
Go-autoworks Pro kit
Turbonetics 6165 BB
Tial 44mm MVR
HKS SSQV
3 inch coldside upgrade

Electronics
GReddy Profec
Prosport Oil gauge
Prosport Boost gauge
AEM Wideband
Hondata S300 V2 (P28)

Other
Blackworks radiator
GS1 white radiator hoses
Custom catch can with 6an hoses and fittings

More to come later...

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

I forgot to mention in the previous post... I found out that the car actually had Koni Yellow suspension with Eibach springs and adjustable coilovers! Definitely better than the suspected eBay suspension we thought it had!

I took off the valve cover, stripped, sanded, polished and did more sanding to prep for paint. I threw some champion white on it and did a few coats.

Added some clear, sanded down the lettering and put the ugly oil cap back on it to take a quick pic.

Looked at the massive scrubbing fest everyone always looks forward to and got to work.

Getting there slowly but surely...

Oil in the damn wiring harness plugs

Took a break from scrubbing and mocked up my battery relocation kit. I got it from TSR auto, and it is amazing. Sturdy, strong and clean. (Apologies for the grainy phone pics)

Also started cleaning and polishing the transmission housing. It was ick. (this was taken over halfway through)

More to come later...

 

[XpL0d3r]

So, so far so good man! I'm excited to see where this goes. Good choice on a Go-Autoworks kit too! Progress seems to be coming alone nicely

Any plans to take care of that Honda rust? My experience, it only gets worse from there.. take care of that if you can before it gets too out of hand.

 

[brandonwaltersmi]

Wow looking good so far.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

So, so far so good man! I'm excited to see where this goes. Good choice on a Go-Autoworks kit too! Progress seems to be coming alone nicely

Any plans to take care of that Honda rust? My experience, it only gets worse from there.. take care of that if you can before it gets too out of hand.

Thanks! I plan to pick up some patch panels for the quarters and take care of all the body work in one sweep. You can tell this wasn't a "Texas" car lol.

Wow looking good so far.

Thank you!

 

[HeX]

I love white hatchbacks. Its very nice.

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

I found out some good news and some bad news today. One of the needle bearings in my trans was falling apart basically, so I ended up paying about 100 bucks for 4 OEM new ones. On the bright side, they should be in on the 3rd! I also called Greg @ Go-autoworks and was told that they were working on my downpipe currently and that as soon as the turbo comes in the mail, they should be shipping it to me within 10 days or so! Those guys are awesome and I highly recommend them. Even during the extremely busy tax return season they make time to talk to customers over the phone about how things are going.

I should be able to upload more pictures of the bay cleaning process and I'm currently debating doing a brake line tuck.

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

Progress is being made, and I took a couple pictures of goodies that came in the door today. I'll add more this weekend. Hopefully some mock-up shots?

Stay tuned!

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

I did a few things over the last couple months. Most of it is sort of monotonous, so I didn't bother talking about it or taking pictures.

I DO have a few updates, however! (Apologies for the poor, grainy pictures)

Mock-up of the exhaust manifold w/ 44mm Tial

Greg and team @ go-autoworks LLC and their amazing welds!

Still tons of work to do on the bay. I always took for granted all the hard work that goes into cleaning up and working on an engine bay while looking through pictures or at car shows. So much scrubbing.

ATI race damper waiting on me to get more loctite:

Fittings and sandwich plate installed on the back of the block!

More goodies waiting for me on the shelf... GReddy profec b, ID's, skunk2 low pro hardware and dual bend, and some AEM/Golden Eagle mfg. stuff.

My horribly messy benches, with the transmission, some piping and head parts. It's amazing how you start with so much space and a clean environment to work in, then it quickly goes out the window lol.

I'll be working on it more tomorrow afternoon through the evening. I need to hit up pick'n'pull for misc. parts, then the shop for more new supplies. Thanks for looking!

 

[Chance EG]

Looking very good so far. Should be an awesome ride!

Let me know how the Dart block works out for you. My current plans are to have a B18 built/sleeved by Laskey next year but if things change in the meantime I may go the Dart route. I've just heard horror stories about the prep work not being completed properly, and with the engines having problems sealing properly and leaking coolant.

That being said though, I've also seen some pretty crazy HP output from them.

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

Looking very good so far. Should be an awesome ride!

Let me know how the Dart block works out for you. My current plans are to have a B18 built/sleeved by Laskey next year but if things change in the meantime I may go the Dart route. I've just heard horror stories about the prep work not being completed properly, and with the engines having problems sealing properly and leaking coolant.

That being said though, I've also seen some pretty crazy HP output from them.

Thanks! I have high hopes for it and (also at the same time) am worried about cooling, first dyno run etc. I'll be happy with 450-500 on 93 octane. I'm considering meth injection but I'm getting worried that I'm overdoing things.

Right now, I've come to a stand-still due to clearance issues with the valve cover and my manifold. I need to swap out that shiny freshly painted VC for one that has the bungs welded in the back instead of the front.
I only put several hours of stripping, sanding, cleaning, grinding and painting into it... so no big deal lol. Anyone know of a place that would trade? Or sell me a valve cover that has the bungs welded in the back already? Google isn't producing results for me.

 

[Diana Nam]

Thanks! I have high hopes for it and (also at the same time) am worried about cooling, first dyno run etc. I'll be happy with 450-500 on 93 octane. I'm considering meth injection but I'm getting worried that I'm overdoing things.

Right now, I've come to a stand-still due to clearance issues with the valve cover and my manifold. I need to swap out that shiny freshly painted VC for one that has the bungs welded in the back instead of the front.
I only put several hours of stripping, sanding, cleaning, grinding and painting into it... so no big deal lol. Anyone know of a place that would trade? Or sell me a valve cover that has the bungs welded in the back already? Google isn't producing results for me.

they have bolt on bungs you can use instead of welding. you just need to drill the hole it uses O-rings to keep it sealed.

 

[MACE]

post 9 pic 1
Hnnnnng./10

 

[A]]Th!ngSound]

they have bolt on bungs you can use instead of welding. you just need to drill the hole it uses O-rings to keep it sealed.

I'm researching crank case ventilation and setups that are relevant to my desired power levels. I may not go with the setup I have currently... but I'm not sure yet. Using this current setup means changing the valve cover out as well as adjusting brake lines since it routes my AN lines to the catch can almost directly on top of them (on the firewall).

It's surprising to me that I can't find good write-ups on crank case ventilation with proven methods. I do see several "this is what I'm doing" threads where different people comment with "that's wrong" and "you'll get oil in your IM/Turbo" etc.

If anyone knows of any *solid* faq's or how-to's for this type of stuff, I'm all ears! I prefer to learn why and how so I better understand what can go wrong.

 

[Diana Nam]

I'm researching crank case ventilation and setups that are relevant to my desired power levels. I may not go with the setup I have currently... but I'm not sure yet. Using this current setup means changing the valve cover out as well as adjusting brake lines since it routes my AN lines to the catch can almost directly on top of them (on the firewall).

It's surprising to me that I can't find good write-ups on crank case ventilation with proven methods. I do see several "this is what I'm doing" threads where different people comment with "that's wrong" and "you'll get oil in your IM/Turbo" etc.

If anyone knows of any *solid* faq's or how-to's for this type of stuff, I'm all ears! I prefer to learn why and how so I better understand what can go wrong.

if you have one of those vented oil catch can that has 4-6 ports, on B series i always see them with 2 lines coming off the back of the block and other 2 lines coming off the valve cover. or with 6 ports 2 off the block and 4 off the valve cover.

 

[Onesillyhatch]

Nice... I have an unfinished dart build... I lost motivation so I may just sell it. My wife is giving me a hard time about it.