my car shut off while drivig and will not crank or light up

[mrcell]

so first off I have a procharged 2000 Honda civic si with 82xxx and I was driving about 40 ish and hit some pot holes and my car turns off. so I coast to the side of the road and take the key out and put it back in and try to start it but nothing happens. non if the gauge lights ( oil, check engine, brake, seatbelt) that normally come on when you turn the key, didn't come on, but the hazards still came on and worked on the outside as well as the high beams. so I checked all the fuses and the ignition fuse looked blown so I replaced it but when I tried to start it with the new fuse nothing happened and I looked back at the fuse and it was blown. so does anyone know how to fix this or know what's wrong. thanks

 

[RonJ]

Post a picture showing the location of the specific fuse that blows.

Also describe the conditions that cause it to blow, for example key off or turning it to ON(I), ON(II), or ON(III).

 

[mrcell]

it is the ignition fuse inside the engine bay. the large 40 amp green one. and I believe it happens when you first turn the key on so the first click. but if you have a door open it will still make the door ding sound.

 

[RonJ]

The photo I requested was needed to avoid any guessing. There's 4 different 40A fuses in the hood fuse box, and also somebody could have installed a 40A fuse into a different slot. Put in more effort when you're asking for help from others.

Is the blown fuse #42? If not, which one is it?

 

[myfavecoupe]

With car/ignition off, take a multimeter set to ohms, connect black lead to a good ground like the battery terminal and probe each side of the fuse terminals (without a fuse installed) only one end should give a shorted reading (0 ohms) if both terminals give same reading you have a short in that circuit. Trace it down using the shop manual to the shorted component. Also possible a wire chaffed in that circuit path and is touching the body of car essentially grounding out.

 

[RonJ]

With car/ignition off, take a multimeter set to ohms, connect black lead to a good ground like the battery terminal and probe each side of the fuse terminals (without a fuse installed) only one end should give a shorted reading (0 ohms) if both terminals give same reading you have a short in that circuit. Trace it down using the shop manual to the shorted component. Also possible a wire chaffed in that circuit path and is touching the body of car essentially grounding out.

If fuse 42 is the one that blows, as now seems likely, and the fuse blows when the key is turned to ON(I) (ACC), then the short to ground is already limited to (1) the ACC Wht/Blk wire from the ignition switch, (2) the dash fuse box itself, or (3) an optional electrical device drawing voltage from the C928 option slot in the dash fuse box.