N20 build, cam and block protection

[MasterShake]

Im building a D16 for n20 (like 75 shot) i need to kno what cam and valve springs to get cus i dunno if the n20/turbo ones will be good without me spraying? also if yall recomend getting tha block guarded, sleeved, filling or not? cus i heard good tuning will make that unnesary, speaking of tuning what do yall recomend for tuning? APEX-i, AEM, hondata etc.?
What i have for the build now:
D16Z6 head and block
skunk 2 valves, camgear
port and polished
Eagle rods
titanium retainers
guide seals
exedy clutch
stock ex tranny

 

[24-7]

For a 75 shot you don't need to do anything. It is not much of a shot.

As for a cam you need to get a big cam(s). High lift on the intake and exhuast. Not a turbo cam.

 

[King Bob]

get ready to be bombarded with people telling you to get uberdata (wich is good for people who know their s**t) but I say go with hondata I have heard a lot of good about it.

 

[banzai]

might not be a bad idea to get some larger injectors, but it is unnecessary to get block gaurds. Can't go wrong with hondata. I've had Uberdata and Crome, my car didn't run as good with those as it does with the s200 unit

 

[Grendel]

75 get 2 stage colder plugs and a way to retard timing you'll be ok.

always run 93/94 gas

 

[io_303]

75 get 2 stage colder plugs and a way to retard timing you'll be ok.

always run 93/94 gas

I think 1 step colder would be fine, 2 steps you will run the risk of the plug fowling during non hard driving. Also you will want some kind of FPR and for a little safe factor an aftermarket ecu like uberdata or hondata(they both have nitrous controlls). If you go much over 75(or just get it to be safe) you would want a fuel pump or a booster pump.

 

[Grendel]

I think 1 step colder would be fine, 2 steps you will run the risk of the plug fowling during non hard driving. Also you will want some kind of FPR and for a little safe factor an aftermarket ecu like uberdata or hondata(they both have nitrous controlls). If you go much over 75(or just get it to be safe) you would want a fuel pump or a booster pump.

I've always been told for sake of safety 2 steps with n2o

I'm sure 1 works fine good call on the FPR slipped my mind.

 

[io_303]

I've always been told for sake of safety 2 steps with n2o

I'm sure 1 works fine good call on the FPR slipped my mind.

I was talking to one of the professors at the automotive department where i go to school, and after he got done bitching about ricers, he taught me the theroy behind plugs. He said 2 or 3 steps would be ideal, but if its a DD only go down 1 step beacuse its easier to fowel a colder plug

 

[24-7]

I've always been told for sake of safety 2 steps with n2o

I'm sure 1 works fine good call on the FPR slipped my mind.

I spray twice the amount of what he is and I run stock Honda plugs. I run 114 octane instead.

 

[Grendel]

I spray twice the amount of what he is and I run stock Honda plugs. I run 114 octane instead.

Most people dont put that into a DD
wait let me rephrase that,
NO ONE stuffs 114 into a daily.

True off that stuff you'd be ok even on 93/94 he wouldn't be.

 

[24-7]

Most people dont put that into a DD
wait let me rephrase that,
NO ONE stuffs 114 into a daily.

True off that stuff you'd be ok even on 93/94 he wouldn't be.

Cooler plugs will make it run like s**t under normal driving. My daily driven '03 s-10 I run 110 through it when I go to the track and spray.

 

[Grendel]

You run 110 everyfill up......

Car will be fine under 1 or 2 stages its not a massive change.

 

[24-7]

You run 110 everyfill up......

I only put 110 in my truck when Im racing at the track and using nitrous.

 

[MasterShake]

Thats cool thanx yall but are the "ZEX" plugs 1 stage colder? and i heard tha AEM FPR is tha best to get so ima order that this weekend.

 

[j_fukin_t]

i also have a question along the same lines, for the timing, can't you just do that manually w/ a timing light and so forth?? or do i need to buy a new ignition??

 

[stealthy]

i also have a question along the same lines, for the timing, can't you just do that manually w/ a timing light and so forth?? or do i need to buy a new ignition??

i think its msd that has a retarding module....might wanna look into it

anyways,like pretty much everyone else said
-1 step colder plugs
-fpr and pump,maybe even a fuel rail
-bigger injectors
-uberdata or hondata
-bigger,non turbo cams
-and retard your timing (i THINK its 2 degrees?someone reinforce me.maybe its 4)

 

[j_fukin_t]

i think its msd that has a retarding module....might wanna look into it

anyways,like pretty much everyone else said
-1 step colder plugs
-fpr and pump,maybe even a fuel rail
-bigger injectors
-uberdata or hondata
-bigger,non turbo cams
-and retard your timing (i THINK its 2 degrees?someone reinforce me.maybe its 4)

zex recomends it like this:
50 = 2 degree
75 = 4 degree
100 = 6 degree

thats the extent of my knowledge because 100 is all i would ever do IF i rebuild the bottom end on the
lil b b***h (aka b16) now w/ the msd do i have to get the entire system or can i buy just that module??

 

[stealthy]

zex recomends it like this:
50 = 2 degree
75 = 4 degree
100 = 6 degree

thats the extent of my knowledge because 100 is all i would ever do IF i rebuild the bottom end on the
lil b b***h (aka b16) now w/ the msd do i have to get the entire system or can i buy just that module??

sweet


i believe you just need the module but dont quote me,i dont know much about it

 

[j_fukin_t]

i believe you just need the module but dont quote me,i dont know much about it

i wish, just looked it up and it looks as i have to buy the whole set-up which i don't really want to do, how well would the car run w/ a 4 degree retard all the time???

 

[HATCHMAN82]

tunning is the most important part here if you wanna be safe spraying