new clutch, pedal to the floor..

[Colten EK]

I installed a Mitsuko stage 3 six puck clutch over the weekend and didn't undo any lines but after install my pedal had alot of play and only catches about an inch before bottoming out to the floor. . I've tried adjusting the rod under behind the pedal and as of right now it's adjusted all the way out in which you think it would make it grab sooner but still only about an inch of resistance in the pedal. I've bled, bled & bled the line and it's air free. I need help getting my daily back on the road, someone please help! !

 

[Esotericimage]

Sounds like either the slave cylinder or clutch cylinder took a s**t.

Thats only if you know for sure you bled it correctly

 

[Colten EK]

I'm about 99% sure I have and I've tried 2 different methods, pumping the pedal, holding it to the floor then loosening the bleeder valve, tightening valve then releasing pedal and also tried holding pedal to floor, loosening valve with a small hose inside bottle of fluid, releasing pedal and repeat. . Both the master & slave were working fine before new clutch install

 

[Esotericimage]

ok let me understand this..

You want to open the bleeder valve, push on the pedal and when it hits the floor, close the valve. repeat, repeat while keeping the reservoir filled.

from your post, sounds like your doing it wrong

 

[Colten EK]

Similar to the way I first tried but instead I held pedal to the floor to build up pressure then released bleeder valve but it's still not making much sense that I only have about an inch of resistance on the clutch pedal and the rest is free play

 

[itzrivera]

Will it go into gear with the car on? Is there pressure through most of the pedal path?

If it wont disengage at all: I had a similar issue, except my clutch wouldn't disengage at all. Turns out there are two adjustments on the master cylinder rod: the metal "U" clip that grabs the pedal with a pin, and the adjustment of the actual rod, which is done once you have the "U" clip adjusted to your pedal. Make sure you have both adjusted.

 

[Colten EK]

It won't go into gear while running but while it's off there's no problem changing gears. I assisted the u nut all the way out to the end of the rod and still no change in tension of the clutch. I've tried to bleed the clutch many times but still I only get about an inch of resistance in the pedal, the rest is free play

 

[Esotericimage]

Ok

Get a water bottle and a vacuum hose. Put the hose on the bleeder valve and the other end goes in the bottle.

Have someone slowly push the pedal down to push fluid into the water bottle MAKE SURE THE HOSE IS SUBMERGED IN THE FLUID SO NO AIR COMES BACK

When it's close to the floor, quickly close the bleeder valve. Have the person lift the pedal back and refill the reservoir.

Do that all over again.. should take 3 try before it's done. If not, then your slave or master is shot.

 

[itzrivera]

You "assisted the U nut" but there is no mention of you spinning the rod after you adjusted the U nut. That is your issue, per my post above. I had the same exact problem.

Turn the actual rod (Not the U nut) to tighten it and hold pressure

 

[Colten EK]

I didn't figure the rod itself was adjustable, it seems the same as the clutch slave which is only a rod and the slave cylinder itself pushes the rod and it's not threaded or anything. Is the rod in the master threaded?

 

[itzrivera]

Per my PM to you, in case anyone has this issue when swapping to a new CMC:

I believe the master cylinder is threaded on both ends, as this is what I had to do for my pedal to have pressure all the way through the pedal. Trust me, I bought 2 masters and 2 slaves and bled that s**t for hours before I realized there was a second adjustment.

So, now that you have the U clip adjusted and connected to the pedal (with the pin going through and cotter pin in that) twist the actual metal rod on the master. When looking at the pedal from the driver seat, I twisted the rod clockwise until it started to get tight. Once it gets tight, turn the car on and try to put it in gear. You should be good to go after that. If you need pics or a vid, just shoot me a message, but you should be good.


This is for an RSX, but look at step #8. Its the same thing we're doing.
http://competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-8037-2.pdf

 

[Colten EK]

I tried and I'm pretty positive the push rod in my master isn't adjustable.. I turned & turned but it didn't adjust in or out unfortunately. This has got me very frustrated! Everything was working fine before new clutch install and I even put it in great at a rolling start and can tell the clutch is in way better working condition than my old. I just have to force it into gear. I need help!!

 

[itzrivera]

You didn't feel the rod tighen? Did you try turning in both directions?

If you did all that, then the issue MAY be that you installed the clutch disk on backwards. I would exhaust every possibility of the cmc and slave before you drop the trans, though.

 

[Colten EK]

Yeah I tried in both directions and I followed the directions on a video on YouTube to change the clutch. I'm probably gonna drop the tranny to make sure but I can put it into gear at a roll and it grabs good and feels better than my old clutch as far as it pulling better

 

[Colten EK]

Would the clutch still work properly from a rolling start because at a rolling start I forced it into first and it drove fine but when changing gears, you have to use a lot of force. I'm honestly thinking it's some kind of easy adjustment needing to be done I just don't know what. It didn't make any weird noises while driving either just very difficult to shift because the clutch isn't releasing completely.

 

[EdtheChipmunk]

Look for fluid coming out of the seal where the rod is coming out. If you see fluid it needs to be replaced. I just replaced the master and slave cylinder a couple of days ago. I'm actually having a similar issue. After reading this thread I am going to try turning the rod to see if that resolves the issue for me.

 

[Colten EK]

It has done nothing for me, the only way I can understand the pedal being adjusted is by loosening the nut behind the u nut then pulling rod from pedal and twist u nut in or out then connecting rod back to pedal but I've tried bleeding the clutch multiple times, adjusting the pedal etc.. But still have the same problem. The master & slave cylinder both were functioning properly before new clutch install so I'm very confused