Nitrous FAQ

wmertz

~multi-colored beast~
Registered VIP
5+ Year Member
Taken from various posts, thanks to members that provided this info.

Q: Is nitrous dangerous to you and your car?

A: The first misconception that needs cleared up is that Nitrous is an accelerant, its not flamable. It is like the oxygen in a torch. When the flame is there the oxygen makes it burn more. However it can be very dangerous for your engine and very hard on the rest of your car, it all just depends on how responsible you are. If you think you can just get any car and put it on and your good then your probably wrong, i would check everything before i would even try to install it I.E. Timing belt, Compression and all of the other fun stuff, i would also highly recomend getting a air/fuel gauge. Detonation sucks.

Q: Should I upgrade the fuel system before installing Nitrous

A: It wouldnt be a bad idea, at least install a air/fuel ratio gauge and see if your running rich or lean.

Q: I have a turbo, should i use wet or dry

A: Wet is the much safer way to go and what I would suggest, with the turbo its gonna be real hard to get the proper air/fuel ratio for it because your turbo is adding boost making your engine run more lean and if you have any more boost over stock and your trying to run a dry kit your probably going to run too lean and kill your engine.

Q: My car has over 100k miles is it still safe to spray?

A: From What i understand its still ok to spray but you may want to check your compression ratios and your timing belt first. You may also want to start off with a really small shot like a 35. I also wouldnt go over 55 with out a rebuild.

Q: Who makes the best kit

A: Well thats not easily awsered, i would personally go with the zex kits because of there saftey features. The only thing i would do is make sure you buy a quality kit.

Q: What type of fuel should I use when using Nitrous?

A: 92 octane or better, leaded fuel would be great but you cant use a cat. converter with it.

Q: Is it better to have a high or low compression engine when running lager amounts(100shot) of nos?

A: I would recomend having a slightly lower compression when running 100shot nitrous. The higher the compression ratio, the more ignition retard, as well as higher octane fuel, is required. But as to which is better for running low amounts i would say low is better.

Q. Is it illegal to have a nitrous system in your cars here in the US?

A. No, its not illegal, you can have a nitrous system hooked up fully, just as long as the bottle is not opened if the cops happen to pull you over. Atleast that is how it is here in Colorado, might want to check around your areas.

Q. What is nitrous?

A. Nitrous oxide is simply an oxygen-bearing chemical that has more oxygen then air. Injecting nitrous increases the oxygen density of your intake charge. In this regard, nitrous works like a turbo or supercharger. Nitrous is 36% oxygen by weight as compared to ari which is 23.6%.

Q. What do nitrous systems consist of?

A. A typical basic nitrous system consist of a high pressure bottle, high pressure braided steel nitrous lines, high pressure solenoid valves to control the flow of fuel and nitrous, and injection nozzles with adjustable, changable orifice sizes or jets.

Q. Do I need to modify my fuel system?

A. Its a must to modify the fuel system. This is to ensure that there is enough fuel being delivered. You will probably need to upgrade the fuel pump, plus the fuel lines, fittings and filters must be up to the task of moving the fuel.

Q. How big of a shot is ok to run on a stock engine?

A. According to SCC (Sport Compact Car) it is unwise to exceed 40% of the engines rated power, or 50 hp, whichever is lower. With any nitrous system, especially one intended for mild street use, the total single-use time should be kept to blasts of 15 seconds or less.

Q. What are the different categories?

A. Single point systems can be divided into two categories: wet or dry. Dry systems have a single nozzle and one nitrous solenoid. The nitrous is introduced from the solenoid through this single nozzle. To deliver the additional fuel needed to go with the nitrous, a special pressure regulator that increases the fuel pressure to the injectors while the nitrous solenoid is activated provides the needed fuel. The other type of single nozzle setup uses a fogging or mixing nozzle to mix the nitrous and fuel together before spraying it into the intake tract. To be safe a single fogging nozzle system shouldnt be run at more than 75 hp or unequal distribution of fuel may lead to problems.

Q. What else should be done to the engine to run nitrous safely?

A. You will need a good set of forged pistons and forged rods. Ignition retard control is also a good idea, an ignition timing control like those sold by MSD is extremely useful for maintaining normal performance and drivability. Pressure gauges allow you to monitor the system pressure. Its very important for tuning and for consistant runs. A good purge kit also helps because the nitrous in the line between the nitrous bottle and the solenoids tends to vaporize if the system is not used for several minutes.

Q. What is a good kit to buy?

A. It really all depends on what you are going for in the hp range. The Venom VCN-2000 is a good kit. They have an advanced, computer controlled dry system, probably the most advanced system on the market, which electronically controls the injectors for additional fuel. The VCN-2000 also electronically controls the nitrous flow by modulating the nitrous solenoid to ensure a stable mixture so no metering jets are needed. NOS also makes a very good single nozzle wet system. It is very safe too. ZEX also has a good kit too. There is so much info out there about these two kits, but if you would like I can type all of the info on these two kits
 

oc_civic

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Decent.. but i have to disagree with a couple points..

wmertz said:
If you think you can just get any car and put it on and your good then your probably wrong,
Most typical off the shelf nitrous kits with a small shot ARE actually made for stock applications..

wmertz said:
i would also highly recomend getting a air/fuel gauge. Detonation sucks.
unless its wideband its useless...

wmertz said:
A: It wouldnt be a bad idea, at least install a air/fuel ratio gauge and see if your running rich or lean.
if its a wideband sure it would be usefull.. but you are also suggesting a $250+ gauge.. most typical nitrous kits have some type of fuel presure safety switch.. and although i personally like gauges and agree that they are usefull.. they are definately not needed in a typical off the shelf application

wmertz said:
Wet is the much safer way to go and what I would suggest, with the turbo its gonna be real hard to get the proper air/fuel ratio for it because your turbo is adding boost making your engine run more lean and if you have any more boost over stock and your trying to run a dry kit your probably going to run too lean and kill your engine.
a boosted motor should not be running lean.. it should have some type of fuel management already.. adding nitrous to a boosted motor can be risky.. and yes.. wet IS the answer.. but my understanding of why wet is the answer is slightly different.. "boost" is craming air into the motor.. well its now also craming nitrous.. with a dry kit there is potential for uneven nitrous distribution.. the nitrous may go more to one cylinder than another.. with a dry kit the fuel is added equally per runner.. with a dry setup you end up with equal fuel.. BUT heavy nitrous due to the additional pressure created by the turbo... since a wet kit sprays nitrous AND fuel so even if it is forced to the back of the intake manifold we hope for the best and assume the nitrous and fuel will be mixed well enough to protect against detonation OR even an overly rich situation (sometimes caused by dry kits where the injector is running more fuel but NOT seeing any nitrous due to poor distribution)

wmertz said:
A. Single point systems can be divided into two categories: wet or dry. Dry systems have a single nozzle and one nitrous solenoid. The nitrous is introduced from the solenoid through this single nozzle. To deliver the additional fuel needed to go with the nitrous, a special pressure regulator that increases the fuel pressure to the injectors while the nitrous solenoid is activated provides the needed fuel. The other type of single nozzle setup uses a fogging or mixing nozzle to mix the nitrous and fuel together before spraying it into the intake tract. To be safe a single fogging nozzle system shouldnt be run at more than 75 hp or unequal distribution of fuel may lead to problems.
pretty good simplification although there are many variations..

wmertz said:
Q. What else should be done to the engine to run nitrous safely?

A. You will need a good set of forged pistons and forged rods. Ignition retard control is also a good idea, an ignition timing control like those sold by MSD is extremely useful for maintaining normal performance and drivability. Pressure gauges allow you to monitor the system pressure. Its very important for tuning and for consistant runs. A good purge kit also helps because the nitrous in the line between the nitrous bottle and the solenoids tends to vaporize if the system is not used for several minutes.
i strongly disagree.. ive run nitrous 50-70 shot on a STOCK internaled y8 for 5+ years now.. you by no means need to build the motor.. the same rules for ANY power adder apply here.. if you go after SERIOUSLY high levels of power.. YES you will need to build the motor.. but a 50 shot on a stock b16 could probably run till the end of the world..the FEW things i recomend are a better clutch because that tends to be the first thing to go.. and MAYBE a better fuel pump.. food routine maint of the car.. and the other s**t i outline in the nitrous discussion in the archives.. some of the things you outline are DEFINATELY nice to have.. but not a need item IMO

wmertz said:
Q. What is a good kit to buy?

A. It really all depends on what you are going for in the hp range. The Venom VCN-2000 is a good kit. They have an advanced, computer controlled dry system, probably the most advanced system on the market, which electronically controls the injectors for additional fuel. The VCN-2000 also electronically controls the nitrous flow by modulating the nitrous solenoid to ensure a stable mixture so no metering jets are needed. NOS also makes a very good single nozzle wet system. It is very safe too. ZEX also has a good kit too. There is so much info out there about these two kits, but if you would like I can type all of the info on these two kits
id keep it WAY simnpler than that..

if you want a wet kit.. get the NOS or NX wet kit..
if you want a dry kit.. just get the NOS kit..
if you want direct port id probably go with the NOS kit..

all of that computer stuff is fine but IMO over kill.. it takes something simple.. drives the price through the roof and at the end of the day.. does the same thing..


decent info.. just wanted to point out a few things i disagreed with.. no disrespect intended.. :D
 




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