DIY: Install FastBrakes 11" 4 Piston Front Brake Kit Install
Front Brake Kit (11" brakes) from www.fastbrakes.com
Applicable Years: 92-00 Honda Civic, 90-01 Acura Integra
Difficulty: 2 out of 5
Estimated Time: 2hrs
IMPORTANT: 15” wheels are required to clear calipers
Required Parts
2 4 piston aluminum calipers with performance brake pads
2 11" OEM quality brake rotors
2 caliper adapter brackets
4 3/8 bolts
4 washers
2 braided steel brake lines
2 hub centric rings (if necessary)
Required Tools
Jack
Jack stands
Something to block the rear wheels from moving
10mm flare nut wrench
12mm ratchet
Brake cleaner
Loctite
Steps
Jack up the front of the vehicle and place on secure jack stands. Block the rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement. Remove the front wheels
Disassembling the front brakes. This procedure is the same between the right and left sides.
Remove the bolts holding the brake hose to the steering knuckle. And remove the brake link from where it meets the hard line. Use a 10mm flare nut wrench to prevent stripping the brake line nut.
Remove the bolt attaching the brake hose to the caliper. Be careful of the dripping brake fluid.
Remove 12mm bolts holding the caliper to the steering knuckle, and remove the caliper. SAVE THE BOLTS THEY WILL BE USED TO ATTACH THE NEW BRACKET.
Remove the 2 screws holding the rotor to the hub. NOTE: You will need to use an impact driver to loosen the screws. If rotor does not come off easily, use 8x1.25 bolts threaded into the rotor to push it off the hub
Remove any rust from around the hub using a wire brush
Installing the kit.
Do not allow any grease, oil, or brake fluid to contact the brake rotor or brake pads. If any parts become contaminated, clean them with brake parts cleaner.
Install the hub ring if included. The beveled side goes toward the hub. Install the rotor making sure it seats against the hub. The screw WILL NOT be used to hold the rotor to the hub. Use a lug nut to hold the rotor in place.
Place the caliper adapter bracket on the knuckle, behind the rotor with the raised part facing the engine. Using Loc Tite 242, torque the bolts to 40 lb-ft. DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE BOLTS!
Clean the rotor using brake cleaner to ensure all grease and oil are removed.
Install the caliper over the rotor.
Secure the caliper using the 10mm bolts and loc-tite. Tighten the bolts to 30 lb-ft of torque. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
Install the brake pads on each side of the rotor. Install the pad retaining pin from the outside of the caliper. Bend pin ends.
Install the brake line adapter fitting into the caliper using Teflon tape or liquid. Tighten sufficiently to prevent leakage. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, CALIPER WILL CRACK. Attach the brake hose to the adapter fitting. Do not overtighten.
Attach the brake hose to the suspension upright and tighten.
Repeat the installation procedure for the other side.
Tighten all 4 brass bleeder screw fittings on each caliper to prevent leakage. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Bleed the brakes using the 2 bleed screws facing upwards on each caliper, starting with the inner screw, according to normal procedures.
NOTE: Some wheels may require a spacer to clear the outer caliper body. Minor trimming of the caliper body to provide wheel clearance can also be done.
TEST THE BRAKES PRIOR TO REPLACING THE WHEELS. Check for any leaks. Retighten all fittings if a leak is detected. You should have a firm brake pedal before driving the vehicle, if not, BLEED THE BRAKES AGAIN until you do. Brake pedal travel may be long until pads are bedded in.
Review:
After the kit was installed my 15x6.5" +40 Rota Slips and LS Mesh rims didn't fit due to the caliper sticking out further. I ended up getting some 15x7" +38 Kosei K1's with 3mm spacer to clear the caliper. While doing the bigger brakes up front I also changed out my stock brake booster for a 1" version from an ITR. The braking is like night and day compared to my old setup consisting of powerslot rotors and hawk pads.
Front Brake Kit (11" brakes) from www.fastbrakes.com
Applicable Years: 92-00 Honda Civic, 90-01 Acura Integra
Difficulty: 2 out of 5
Estimated Time: 2hrs
IMPORTANT: 15” wheels are required to clear calipers
Required Parts
2 4 piston aluminum calipers with performance brake pads
2 11" OEM quality brake rotors
2 caliper adapter brackets
4 3/8 bolts
4 washers
2 braided steel brake lines
2 hub centric rings (if necessary)
Required Tools
Jack
Jack stands
Something to block the rear wheels from moving
10mm flare nut wrench
12mm ratchet
Brake cleaner
Loctite
Steps
Jack up the front of the vehicle and place on secure jack stands. Block the rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement. Remove the front wheels
Disassembling the front brakes. This procedure is the same between the right and left sides.
Remove the bolts holding the brake hose to the steering knuckle. And remove the brake link from where it meets the hard line. Use a 10mm flare nut wrench to prevent stripping the brake line nut.
Remove the bolt attaching the brake hose to the caliper. Be careful of the dripping brake fluid.
Remove 12mm bolts holding the caliper to the steering knuckle, and remove the caliper. SAVE THE BOLTS THEY WILL BE USED TO ATTACH THE NEW BRACKET.
Remove the 2 screws holding the rotor to the hub. NOTE: You will need to use an impact driver to loosen the screws. If rotor does not come off easily, use 8x1.25 bolts threaded into the rotor to push it off the hub
Remove any rust from around the hub using a wire brush
Installing the kit.
Do not allow any grease, oil, or brake fluid to contact the brake rotor or brake pads. If any parts become contaminated, clean them with brake parts cleaner.
Install the hub ring if included. The beveled side goes toward the hub. Install the rotor making sure it seats against the hub. The screw WILL NOT be used to hold the rotor to the hub. Use a lug nut to hold the rotor in place.
Place the caliper adapter bracket on the knuckle, behind the rotor with the raised part facing the engine. Using Loc Tite 242, torque the bolts to 40 lb-ft. DO NOT OVERTORQUE THE BOLTS!
Clean the rotor using brake cleaner to ensure all grease and oil are removed.
Install the caliper over the rotor.
Secure the caliper using the 10mm bolts and loc-tite. Tighten the bolts to 30 lb-ft of torque. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
Install the brake pads on each side of the rotor. Install the pad retaining pin from the outside of the caliper. Bend pin ends.
Install the brake line adapter fitting into the caliper using Teflon tape or liquid. Tighten sufficiently to prevent leakage. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, CALIPER WILL CRACK. Attach the brake hose to the adapter fitting. Do not overtighten.
Attach the brake hose to the suspension upright and tighten.
Repeat the installation procedure for the other side.
Tighten all 4 brass bleeder screw fittings on each caliper to prevent leakage. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Bleed the brakes using the 2 bleed screws facing upwards on each caliper, starting with the inner screw, according to normal procedures.
NOTE: Some wheels may require a spacer to clear the outer caliper body. Minor trimming of the caliper body to provide wheel clearance can also be done.
TEST THE BRAKES PRIOR TO REPLACING THE WHEELS. Check for any leaks. Retighten all fittings if a leak is detected. You should have a firm brake pedal before driving the vehicle, if not, BLEED THE BRAKES AGAIN until you do. Brake pedal travel may be long until pads are bedded in.
Review:
After the kit was installed my 15x6.5" +40 Rota Slips and LS Mesh rims didn't fit due to the caliper sticking out further. I ended up getting some 15x7" +38 Kosei K1's with 3mm spacer to clear the caliper. While doing the bigger brakes up front I also changed out my stock brake booster for a 1" version from an ITR. The braking is like night and day compared to my old setup consisting of powerslot rotors and hawk pads.
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