DIY: Install theretrofitsource Mini H1 4.0 Projectors Into 96-00 Civic
This DIY is for the Mini H1 4.0 projectors off theretrofitsource.com. They are now called the Mini H1 4.1. I don't know what the difference is. I think you can get a different shroud or something. Regardless, the install should be the same.
Applicable Years: 96-00 Coupe, Sedan, Hatchback
Difficulty: 3 out of 5
Estimated Time: 1-3 Hours (Depends how picky you are, how slow/fast you work, if you make a mistake, but generally should take a couple hours at most)
Required Parts: Depending on what you bought, at most you'll need the projectors, HID kit, and relay harness.
Required Tools: (may vary depending on your car and what screws/bolts are being used to hold the car together)
- Conventional Oven
- Hot pads, gloves, etc. (to handle hot headlight)
- Flathead screwdriver (variety of sizes)
- Philips screwdriver (variety of sizes)
- 10mm socket with extension and socket wrench
- Flat surface with sufficient space to work on
I didn't include pictures for EVERY step. Some are self-explanatory.
Before we begin, I know the projectors are already in. My passenger side headlight was building up condensation inside so I had to pull them apart to re-seal them. I figured while they were apart, I would write a quick and easy How To!
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Step 1:
Begin by parking on a flat surface with a flat wall ahead of you (this will come in handy later). Ideally, 20-25 feet would be great. But if it's 10-20, no big deal. You don't want to be much closer than that (explained why in step 17).
Step 2:
Remove your front bumper and upper grill.
Step 3:
Remove your headlights.
(I only removed my passenger one since that's the one that needed to be worked on):
Step 4:
Set your oven to 225 and wait until it's ready (you can also do this while you're taking your car apart if you've done it before and can do it quickly).
Step 5:
Remove everything you can off of the headlight and then put it in the oven for 10 minutes.
Step 6:
CAUTION: THE HEADLIGHT WILL BE HOT. USE HOT PADS, GLOVES, ETC.
Once 10 minutes are up, pull the headlight out and onto your flat work surface. Take a smaller flathead screwdriver and start to pry open the headlight. Don't worry if you break the little tabs that help hold them together. It happens. The sealant does most of the work anyways. Pry the tabs up and off from the headlight cover and then pull the cover and back part away from each other.
This would also be a good time to put in your other headlight! Just don't forget about it!
You should have this when done:
Step 7:
Once you have your headlight apart, take your 10mm socket and extension and a phillips head screwdriver and remove the 2x 10mm bolts and turn the far left one (adjuster) until the front reflector pops off. You may have to pull on the reflector cone while you turn the adjuster.
TAKE NOTE OF HOW FAR EACH BOLT GOES INTO EACH HOLE!!!! When you go to put them back together later, you'll want to put them in around the same distance.
You should have the following when you're done:
Step 8:
Take a phillips head screwdriver and remove the screw that holds on the halogen reflector.
(It's the bottom empty hole in the pic below)
When you're all done:
Step 9:
Now take out your projectors from the packaging and screw in the shrouds with the 4 long screws provided. Take your time doing it and put them in straight.
Step 10:
Now look at the back of the projector. Remove the big nut and the 3 tiny screws with a phillips head CAREFULLY. You have to apply pressure as you turn otherwise you'll ruin them. They're annoying to put in / take out. Be careful where you set the screws because they are small! Take off the little tab the screws hold on and set that aside with the nut and screws.
When you're done:
Step 11:
Once you have the back off, gather the following pieces in the order below:
Here is a mock up of how the parts go on the projector:
Step 12:
Before you put the projector into the headlight, be sure it's right side up! It may sound silly but it could confuse you!
. If you look through the front lens, you'll see a little metal flap with a spring below it. You want that to be on the bottom.
Once you've faced it the right way, take the biggest white rubber "washer" and put it on the back of the projector and slide it into the reflector cone (make sure you pull the wire through too!). Next take the H4 adapter plate and put it so the bulge (if you look at it sideways) is facing away from the projector. Then take the other little white rubber "washer" and put it on. Finally screw the nut back on.
Step 13:
After you've got the projector secure in the reflector cone, put the 3 tiny screws and metal tab back onto the back of the projector.
When you're all done, here is where you should be:
Step 14:
Now put the reflector cone back onto the back piece of the headlight in reverse method of taking it off. You don't have to go crazy with the bolts and adjuster. Just enough to they're at least in. You're going to have to adjust the headlights later anyways.
When you're done:
Step 15:
With the headlight cover still off, prepare to bolt the headlight back onto the car. Now would be a good time to hook up your HID kit and put the bulbs into the projector since it's easier to install the bulb with the headlight off.
Step 16:
When you're all set, bolt the headlight onto the car:
Step 17:
This is where parking on a level surface with a flat wall ahead of you comes into play. Turn on the HID's and make sure the cut off is horizontal on the wall. If it isn't, just grab the shroud and GENTLY turn the projector until it is horizontal like so:
You don't want to be too close since the cut off is distorted at a close distance. This is why I recommended 20-25 feet, as if you were going to aim your headlights normally.
They shouldn't be too far off to begin with. You really don't have to turn that much and hardly have to apply much pressure. Also remember that because of the H4 adapter plate that got put on the back of the projector, it locks the projector into one fixed position so there is very little room for the projector to move. DO NOT APPLY A LOT OF FORCE TO THE PROJECTOR WHEN DOING THIS PART!!!
Step 18:
When you have the cut off level, turn off the HID's, disconnect everything and remove the headlight. Now is a good time to wipe off any oil or finger prints your hands left when touching all the shiny surfaces. TRS should have provided an alcohol wipe. Do not make the mistake I did and use wet paper towel. It will leave streaks!!! Spray some windex onto a piece of paper towel if the alcohol wipe starts to get dry and you still need to clean more.
Step 19:
Push the headlight cover back onto the headlight as much as you can and then put it back into the oven @ 225 for 10 minutes.
Step 20.:
Once 10 minutes have passed, take the headlight out (CAUTION: THE HEADLIGHT WILL BE HOT. USE HOT PADS, GLOVES, ETC.), and work the headlight back together. Make sure you push the tabs back over the tiny flaps. The tabs may make a click sound when it gets pushed over a tab, you'll know that it's on.
If you feel like the sealant is getting a little hard and you've spent too much time diddling with it, put it back in the oven for however long (based on how cool the sealant is) and work it more again.
Step 21:
Once you're all set putting the headlight back together, put the headlight back on the car and repeat for the other headlight.
When you're done with both, be sure to aim them!!! Park on a level surface, 25ft away from a wall, perpendicular to it, and align them. I've adjusted mine over a dozen times at this point. It may take a few times to find the right spot. Keep driving around and seeing where your cut off lands on cars, signs, etc.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Review:
Overall, everything should go smooth. The MH1 projector was designed to be a plug and play projector. Keep in mind that you may have condensation issues because of this. The white washer that sits at the bottom of the projector does not create as tight of a seal as a halogen setup where the bulb meets the rubber boot. Also, I highly recommend a relay harness if you did not choose to get one.
For more reading, go here:
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=208090
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Enjoy your cut off!!!
.
This DIY is for the Mini H1 4.0 projectors off theretrofitsource.com. They are now called the Mini H1 4.1. I don't know what the difference is. I think you can get a different shroud or something. Regardless, the install should be the same.
Applicable Years: 96-00 Coupe, Sedan, Hatchback
Difficulty: 3 out of 5
Estimated Time: 1-3 Hours (Depends how picky you are, how slow/fast you work, if you make a mistake, but generally should take a couple hours at most)
Required Parts: Depending on what you bought, at most you'll need the projectors, HID kit, and relay harness.
Required Tools: (may vary depending on your car and what screws/bolts are being used to hold the car together)
- Conventional Oven
- Hot pads, gloves, etc. (to handle hot headlight)
- Flathead screwdriver (variety of sizes)
- Philips screwdriver (variety of sizes)
- 10mm socket with extension and socket wrench
- Flat surface with sufficient space to work on
I didn't include pictures for EVERY step. Some are self-explanatory.
Before we begin, I know the projectors are already in. My passenger side headlight was building up condensation inside so I had to pull them apart to re-seal them. I figured while they were apart, I would write a quick and easy How To!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Step 1:
Begin by parking on a flat surface with a flat wall ahead of you (this will come in handy later). Ideally, 20-25 feet would be great. But if it's 10-20, no big deal. You don't want to be much closer than that (explained why in step 17).
Step 2:
Remove your front bumper and upper grill.
Step 3:
Remove your headlights.
(I only removed my passenger one since that's the one that needed to be worked on):
Step 4:
Set your oven to 225 and wait until it's ready (you can also do this while you're taking your car apart if you've done it before and can do it quickly).
Step 5:
Remove everything you can off of the headlight and then put it in the oven for 10 minutes.
Step 6:
CAUTION: THE HEADLIGHT WILL BE HOT. USE HOT PADS, GLOVES, ETC.
Once 10 minutes are up, pull the headlight out and onto your flat work surface. Take a smaller flathead screwdriver and start to pry open the headlight. Don't worry if you break the little tabs that help hold them together. It happens. The sealant does most of the work anyways. Pry the tabs up and off from the headlight cover and then pull the cover and back part away from each other.
This would also be a good time to put in your other headlight! Just don't forget about it!
You should have this when done:
Step 7:
Once you have your headlight apart, take your 10mm socket and extension and a phillips head screwdriver and remove the 2x 10mm bolts and turn the far left one (adjuster) until the front reflector pops off. You may have to pull on the reflector cone while you turn the adjuster.
TAKE NOTE OF HOW FAR EACH BOLT GOES INTO EACH HOLE!!!! When you go to put them back together later, you'll want to put them in around the same distance.
You should have the following when you're done:
Step 8:
Take a phillips head screwdriver and remove the screw that holds on the halogen reflector.
(It's the bottom empty hole in the pic below)
When you're all done:
Step 9:
Now take out your projectors from the packaging and screw in the shrouds with the 4 long screws provided. Take your time doing it and put them in straight.
Step 10:
Now look at the back of the projector. Remove the big nut and the 3 tiny screws with a phillips head CAREFULLY. You have to apply pressure as you turn otherwise you'll ruin them. They're annoying to put in / take out. Be careful where you set the screws because they are small! Take off the little tab the screws hold on and set that aside with the nut and screws.
When you're done:
Step 11:
Once you have the back off, gather the following pieces in the order below:
Here is a mock up of how the parts go on the projector:
Step 12:
Before you put the projector into the headlight, be sure it's right side up! It may sound silly but it could confuse you!
. If you look through the front lens, you'll see a little metal flap with a spring below it. You want that to be on the bottom.Once you've faced it the right way, take the biggest white rubber "washer" and put it on the back of the projector and slide it into the reflector cone (make sure you pull the wire through too!). Next take the H4 adapter plate and put it so the bulge (if you look at it sideways) is facing away from the projector. Then take the other little white rubber "washer" and put it on. Finally screw the nut back on.
Step 13:
After you've got the projector secure in the reflector cone, put the 3 tiny screws and metal tab back onto the back of the projector.
When you're all done, here is where you should be:
Step 14:
Now put the reflector cone back onto the back piece of the headlight in reverse method of taking it off. You don't have to go crazy with the bolts and adjuster. Just enough to they're at least in. You're going to have to adjust the headlights later anyways.
When you're done:
Step 15:
With the headlight cover still off, prepare to bolt the headlight back onto the car. Now would be a good time to hook up your HID kit and put the bulbs into the projector since it's easier to install the bulb with the headlight off.
Step 16:
When you're all set, bolt the headlight onto the car:
Step 17:
This is where parking on a level surface with a flat wall ahead of you comes into play. Turn on the HID's and make sure the cut off is horizontal on the wall. If it isn't, just grab the shroud and GENTLY turn the projector until it is horizontal like so:
You don't want to be too close since the cut off is distorted at a close distance. This is why I recommended 20-25 feet, as if you were going to aim your headlights normally.
They shouldn't be too far off to begin with. You really don't have to turn that much and hardly have to apply much pressure. Also remember that because of the H4 adapter plate that got put on the back of the projector, it locks the projector into one fixed position so there is very little room for the projector to move. DO NOT APPLY A LOT OF FORCE TO THE PROJECTOR WHEN DOING THIS PART!!!
Step 18:
When you have the cut off level, turn off the HID's, disconnect everything and remove the headlight. Now is a good time to wipe off any oil or finger prints your hands left when touching all the shiny surfaces. TRS should have provided an alcohol wipe. Do not make the mistake I did and use wet paper towel. It will leave streaks!!! Spray some windex onto a piece of paper towel if the alcohol wipe starts to get dry and you still need to clean more.
Step 19:
Push the headlight cover back onto the headlight as much as you can and then put it back into the oven @ 225 for 10 minutes.
Step 20.:
Once 10 minutes have passed, take the headlight out (CAUTION: THE HEADLIGHT WILL BE HOT. USE HOT PADS, GLOVES, ETC.), and work the headlight back together. Make sure you push the tabs back over the tiny flaps. The tabs may make a click sound when it gets pushed over a tab, you'll know that it's on.
If you feel like the sealant is getting a little hard and you've spent too much time diddling with it, put it back in the oven for however long (based on how cool the sealant is) and work it more again.
Step 21:
Once you're all set putting the headlight back together, put the headlight back on the car and repeat for the other headlight.
When you're done with both, be sure to aim them!!! Park on a level surface, 25ft away from a wall, perpendicular to it, and align them. I've adjusted mine over a dozen times at this point. It may take a few times to find the right spot. Keep driving around and seeing where your cut off lands on cars, signs, etc.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Review:
Overall, everything should go smooth. The MH1 projector was designed to be a plug and play projector. Keep in mind that you may have condensation issues because of this. The white washer that sits at the bottom of the projector does not create as tight of a seal as a halogen setup where the bulb meets the rubber boot. Also, I highly recommend a relay harness if you did not choose to get one.
For more reading, go here:
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=208090
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Enjoy your cut off!!!
.
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