Painting my car white: spray paint

Jeff2000civic

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I wanna paint my car at home, to save money. Color of choice is white. Will it be easier than other colors to paint?

I plan on sanding the car down to the steel. And using only rust oleum primer paint and finish, all white coats.

Just need some advice on how to do this so it doesn't look bad. Thanks
 

jd12577

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paint

i did mine today i went with roll on ruustolium. i put the first coat on today turned out very well especially cause how cheap it was. i have reserched it alot and the roll on is the way to go in my opinion
 


fanaticx

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first there is no need to strip it that far! second cans can come out very inconsistent. 3 primer is needed. good luck though
 

jd12577

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paint

i agree spray is easy on small pieces but is very hard to keep consistent on a whole car
 


Jeff2000civic

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But I figure with white and the proper work and wet sanding by hand it shouldn't be bad. If worse comes to worst I'll say fkk it and take her to Maaco. But I would much rather spend 100 dollars on rattle cans then 500 on pro. You know?
 

jd12577

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lol i spent 48 bucks on mine and its turning out great. with the roll on its easy to keep it consistent. i went with black but i have seen it done white.
 

Billy.

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I would think white would turn out better since it hides damage/defects better than black, which acts like a mirror. Take pics of the process!
 

takeachance

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It's going to look ok but anyone will be able to tell you used spray or roll on paint, also with a complete color change you will have to take apart the whole car to get inside all the jambs and creases or else it will look like s**t. Best of luck can't wait to see this lol
 

cgpEJ6

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Don't go down to bare metal. There is no reason to do so and you'll be making your car more susceptible to rust. Factory paint is heat cured which helps prevent rust. If you take it down to bare metal, you're losing that protection.
 

HeX

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But I figure with white and the proper work and wet sanding by hand it shouldn't be bad. If worse comes to worst I'll say fkk it and take her to Maaco. But I would much rather spend 100 dollars on rattle cans then 500 on pro. You know?
Im no paint expert, but from my knowledge I agree with the guy who says rattle-canning a car is just too difficult to attain a uniform finish on such large sections. Secondly, Maaco paint jobs are simply awful. you actually wouldnt be much better off than just rattle-canning it.

It's going to look ok but anyone will be able to tell you used spray or roll on paint, also with a complete color change you will have to take apart the whole car to get inside all the jambs and creases or else it will look like s***. Best of luck can't wait to see this lol
Ive seen some online photos of roll-on paint jobs that looked great when the time was taken to achieve maximum results.

With that said, does anyone here have photos of their finished product of a roll-on job?
 

TokyoSkies

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Im no paint expert, but from my knowledge I agree with the guy who says rattle-canning a car is just too difficult to attain a uniform finish on such large sections. Secondly, Maaco paint jobs are simply awful. you actually wouldnt be much better off than just rattle-canning it.



Ive seen some online photos of roll-on paint jobs that looked great when the time was taken to achieve maximum results.

With that said, does anyone here have photos of their finished product of a roll-on job?
A buddy of mine roll brushed his car white. It looked like complete s**t. It looked like the whole car was covered in hardened white clay. He sanded/prepped pretty well, too. It took him about 2 weeks to complete.
 

HeX

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A buddy of mine roll brushed his car white. It looked like complete s***. It looked like the whole car was covered in hardened white clay. He sanded/prepped pretty well, too. It took him about 2 weeks to complete.
And your experience is why pictures cant always be trusted. Did he use clear coat though?
 

95coupeWI

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I've spray painted my old ek like 3 times lol i found that when i did it a beige color, that looked the best.. just wetsand a lot, and try to keep your coats even and it will be alright
 

TokyoSkies

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And your experience is why pictures cant always be trusted. Did he use clear coat though?
I was digging on Facebook for pictures. I don't think he even got pictures of it after it was painted. It was stolen one night after we did a b20vtec conversion on it (had a few dudes working with us, did the work in an apartment carport. Disassembled the head, and realized the b20 bottom end had been built for boost [low-comp pistons, cometic head gasket etc.]. Slapped on the head, and test drove it. Two days later, it was stolen.) He did 2 coats of really cheap and s**t clear. It looked awful. I'll keep looking for pictures.
 

Trekk

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This is why rattle cans suck.
Paint comes out super thin.
Tiger stripes like a mofo
Dries too fast.
You could just buy a gal of real SS auto paint for what you would spend in rattle cans.
Before I decided to just paint mine with real auto paint, I rattle canned the roof, it took like 4 cans, and didnt look that good. You can see what i did in my sig.

If you want to be cheap do the roll on paint job. Do not sand down to the metal or you are going to have all kinds of problems.
 

jd12577

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i am on my second coat of my roll on. its turning out good did your friend use 100% mineral spirits useing the is critical. go to youtube and type How to paint your car with Rustoleum. The right way. this in. it will show you how to do it step by step the supplies cost me 48 bucks. if you want good results do it this way.
 

2slo4u

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should just do the spray on plasti-dip
 

Oem>

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Im still playing around with it but ive painted my front end rattle can and its working out nice. DONT sand to bare metal, i made that mistake its just a waste of time. Sand off clear if any then spray with Rustoleum Sandable Primer. Buy the yellow sanding block at autozone or something and smooth out the primer with that. Lay down ur white coats, wait to try then spray Rustoleum Clear coat. Now wetsand with 1000/15000/2000 grit, i like 3000 because it smooths it down nice but its personal preference. To be Safe wait a week for it to dry before you wetsand but u can do it in a couple of days. After that buff it out with Meguires Ultimate Compound and wait a day or two to dry. Guarantee itll look almost oem. The paint job will look shitty up untill ur wetsanding the clear and buffing it so dont loos faith!!

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound/dp/B001O7PNNM

http://www.amazon.com/3M-03070-Premium-Automotive-Sponge/dp/B004MEADQ6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1343326104&sr=1-11&keywords=3m+sanding+block

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249418-Automotive-12-Ounce-Sandable/dp/B003CT4AMU/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1343326144&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=sandable+primer+rustoleum
 

Trekk

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If you do that much sanding and buffing to rattle can clear you won't even have any clear left unless maybe you put down like 8 coats. Even then rattle can stuff doesn't have a hardener in it.
Yes you can make something like a bumper look ok, but when paint a huge flat area like a hood with a little fan that a can has you are going to get dry edge and tiger stripes all over it. You could put a crap load of coats down then try to sand it smooth but the effort it would take to do an entire car would just be crazy.

Just another heads up most people ignore if you choose to rattle can your suppose to only use about 50% of the can then toss it out. The reason is the pressure drops in the can and you start losing the consistent fan pattern.
 


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