Passenger Power Window No Power Not Working

canadian_l3acon

New Member
Hi there, I am in serious need of help. I have done alot of working on this passenger window and still no luck. Its a 1998 Honda civic EX 2 Door

I have done the following:

- checked possible blown fuses
- checked continuity at the motor for 12v (it reads 12v on both depending on which way the switch is engaged)
- replaced Motor and Regulator
- then checked if the Motor and Regulator are working both and the new unit and one previously installed, both work fine.
- replaced master switch driver side, still no luck

The driver window works fine, passenger window does not show any signs of power. I am thinking its a ground issue, but all the plugs in the master harness are in there fine (not loose).

Would I be correct in thinking its a ground issue?
 

eugee

New Member
could it be the motor?

or the brush? if i'm not mistaken about the term
 


RonJ

Banned
Run power and ground wires directly from the battery to the motor. Does it now run?
 

canadian_l3acon

New Member
Thanks for the responses

"- then checked if the Motor and Regulator are working both and the new unit and one previously installed, both work fine."
I should have clarified, but that is exactly what I did to test the new and used motors/regulators
 


canadian_l3acon

New Member
Ok I will try that tomorrow. Thanks for your help! If the Ground wire is broken, can I just splice a wire from the master switch to one of the bolts (ground)? If so, which black wire should I splice? There are two leading to the master switch
 

RonJ

Banned
canadian_l3acon said:
Ok I will try that tomorrow. Thanks for your help! If the Ground wire is broken, can I just splice a wire from the master switch to one of the bolts (ground)? If so, which black wire should I splice? There are two leading to the master switch
Click to expand...
It doesn't work that way. Each of the two motor wires serves as both power and ground depending on whether the window is going up or down.

Have you tested the passenger switch?

You need to learn to do diagnostic electrical testing. Come away from a strategy of replacing parts as a way to diagnose and fix problems.
 

canadian_l3acon

New Member
The reason I was saying I thought it could be the ground wire is because the master switch is grounded. This allows the switch to throw either wire negative (-) depending on which way the switch is flipped. Or am I incorrect in saying that?

How do I go about testing the switch? and the master switch does not show any results in getting it to work either.
 

RonJ

Banned
The master switch works through the passenger switch and vice versa. Ohm test the passenger switch. If it's fine, then check for a broken wire in both door jambs.

 

Attachments

canadian_l3acon

New Member
Will do! I will post back with results tomorrow morning. I see you post alot on this site. Thanks for being such a help in the civic community.
 

canadian_l3acon

New Member
Just an update. I found the following this morning:
-The switch is good, the resistance matches what it should be on each of the positions.
-I hadn't heard this until this morning, but the motor does react to the up switch position, but not the down. Down is the issue.

I have not yet checked voltage and ground of the switch or if there is a break in the wire somewhere along the line.

Ok. So I tested voltage at the switch. The master switch does not give a voltage read on the window up switch. But window down switch is fine from the master switch. From the passenger switch the voltage on the postitive end is good. Everything checks out, but the neg (ground) Does not read any voltage from the switch down position which explains why there is no reaction when the switch is pressed.

To sum it up: 2 issues. No ground to the motor when switch is pressed down. And no power making it to the passenger switch from the master switch when the switch is pressed on the up position.

My theroy is broken wires, but I tried pulling the door jam rubber out, how in the world am I supposed to diagnose where the break in the wire is when it goes up into the dash and way out of sight? Do you have to tear the whole dash up to find the break?

Just wanted to add this: I just bought the car so I do not know the history. I removed the factory stereo, would that have any affect on the ground of the window? or is that a completely separate circuit
 
Last edited by a moderator:

RonJ

Banned
canadian_l3acon said:
Ok. So I tested voltage at the switch. The master switch does not give a voltage read on the window up switch. But window down switch is fine from the master switch. From the passenger switch the voltage on the postitive end is good. Everything checks out, but the neg (ground) Does not read any voltage from the switch down position which explains why there is no reaction when the switch is pressed.

To sum it up: 2 issues. No ground to the motor when switch is pressed down. And no power making it to the passenger switch from the master switch when the switch is pressed on the up position.
Click to expand...
The passenger switch in the passenger door receives voltage independently of the passenger switch in the driver door. The passenger switch in the passenger door gets ground through the passenger switch in the driver door.

Both your voltage and ground problems point to a broken Blu/Yel wire that runs between the driver and passenger doors.

What you need to do is post what wires (colors) you voltage tested what you used for ground in those tests.

 

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RonJ

Banned
canadian_l3acon said:
I tried pulling the door jam rubber out, how in the world am I supposed to diagnose where the break in the wire is when it goes up into the dash and way out of sight?
Click to expand...
The wires break on the door jamb side of the connector where they flex back and forth when the door opens or closes. The wires don't break on the dash side where they never move.

 

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canadian_l3acon

New Member


I hope this uploads. Here are the results. the numbers are the voltage read. I used the battery terminals to get a read on each of the ports. Let me know if it makes sense to you.

...This is a test from the passenger side window. Were you looking for the driver side? I just read your first post
 

RonJ

Banned
canadian_l3acon said:
...This is a test from the passenger side window. Were you looking for the driver side? I just read your first post
Click to expand...
What are the differences between columns B-C, E-F, and H-I?

I used the battery terminals to get a read on each of the ports.
Click to expand...
Does this^ mean you used the battery (-) post as ground for all of your voltage tests?
 

canadian_l3acon

New Member
The difference is the position of the passenger side switch. sw up is switch up for example. I tested the V through the back side of the switch as I pressed them.

Yes i tested with the - terminal of the battery, will this skew the results?
 

RonJ

Banned
canadian_l3acon said:
The difference is the position of the passenger side switch. sw up is switch up for example. I tested the V through the back side of the switch as I pressed them.
Click to expand...
What does the + versus - mean in each column heading? For example, sw up- versus sw up+?
 
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