Due to a recent increase in questions and threads on alarms and remote starts, here is a list of sources and info that everyone considering an alarm should read over.
Q: What alarm should I buy?
A: One alarm doesn't fit everyone, and you then have to ask yourself some other questions:
1.What is my budget, how much am I going to spend?
Depend on the features you want, but expect anywhere from 200 to 600+ installed
2.What brand should I look for?
Probably the best thing to look for is Quality, most DEI (Directed Electronics) alarms work great, others like Compustar are also great.
3.What features do I want?
A 2way-pager systems have become a lot more affordable, but make sure you look into one with a security feature (rolling codes ect), a good range, adjustable sensitivity, and expandability (in case you want to add a trunk release, window modules, or door poppers).
4.What about remote start?
Remote start is great to have in the winter and summer, but there are a few quirks to it... In most states it is illegal to have it on a manual transmission vehicle for safety reasons. There are some manual transmission compatible remote starts, but finding an installer who will do it becomes the issue.
Q: Where should I buy my alarm?
A: Briefly, where ever you feel comfortable, and can get a good price.
Q: What about installation?
A: If you trust best buy, circuit city, tweeter, thats your call. Personally I would only get it done by an MECP certified installer, better yet someone who is certified and has years of experience under their belt. Some smaller shops have guys like that, and you can always ask to see the certifications and request a certified technican does the job.
Q: Ok I think I can install it myself, what if I need help?
A: Do some research before you start to considering installing it. Try places like www.the12volt.com and www.installdr.com for some great references and wiring diagrams. Just remember the only person responsible for any damages and mistakes in the installation is you. http://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/carsecurity.asp
Q: Where can I get add on parts?
A. Directed makes a lot of good stuff www.directed.com Check them out for trunk switches, window modules and door poppers
Feel free to add to sources to this and other tips
Q: What alarm should I buy?
A: One alarm doesn't fit everyone, and you then have to ask yourself some other questions:
1.What is my budget, how much am I going to spend?
Depend on the features you want, but expect anywhere from 200 to 600+ installed
2.What brand should I look for?
Probably the best thing to look for is Quality, most DEI (Directed Electronics) alarms work great, others like Compustar are also great.
3.What features do I want?
A 2way-pager systems have become a lot more affordable, but make sure you look into one with a security feature (rolling codes ect), a good range, adjustable sensitivity, and expandability (in case you want to add a trunk release, window modules, or door poppers).
4.What about remote start?
Remote start is great to have in the winter and summer, but there are a few quirks to it... In most states it is illegal to have it on a manual transmission vehicle for safety reasons. There are some manual transmission compatible remote starts, but finding an installer who will do it becomes the issue.
Q: Where should I buy my alarm?
A: Briefly, where ever you feel comfortable, and can get a good price.
Q: What about installation?
A: If you trust best buy, circuit city, tweeter, thats your call. Personally I would only get it done by an MECP certified installer, better yet someone who is certified and has years of experience under their belt. Some smaller shops have guys like that, and you can always ask to see the certifications and request a certified technican does the job.
Q: Ok I think I can install it myself, what if I need help?
A: Do some research before you start to considering installing it. Try places like www.the12volt.com and www.installdr.com for some great references and wiring diagrams. Just remember the only person responsible for any damages and mistakes in the installation is you. http://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/carsecurity.asp
Q: Where can I get add on parts?
A. Directed makes a lot of good stuff www.directed.com Check them out for trunk switches, window modules and door poppers
The12Volt.com Glossary said:Active Arming - A method for arming a security system that requires some action such as pressing a button on a remote transmitter or entering a code on a keypad.
Passive Arming - The ability of some security systems to arm without requiring any direct action from the operator of the vehicle.
Back-up Battery - A separate battery added to the security system as an alternate power supply to serve as a backup in case the vehicle's main battery should be disabled by a thief.
Accessory (position) - Refers to the position of the key in the ignition switch; A wire showing 12 Volts (+) when in this position.
Constant 12 V (+) - A lead, wire, or connection point that shows positive 12 volts regardless of ignition key position or any other switch; Positive terminal of 12 volt battery.
Ground - An electrical line with the same electrical potential as the chassis of the vehicle, most commonly negative 12 volts DC.
Normally Closed - Refers to the electrical state in which a switch may rest. Its contacts are held together or closed so that current is allowed to flow through its contacts.
Normally Open - Refers to the electrical state in which a switch may rest. Its contacts are held apart or open so that no current flows through its contacts.
Door Lock Solenoid - The proper name for the electric bi-directional actuator used to provide powered control vehicle door locks. Also called a Door Lock Actuator.
Pin switch - A simple spring-loaded mechanical switch used in many different vehicles designed to turn on interior lights when doors are opened. Pin switches are also used in the installation of most security systems in the hood or trunk/hatch as a means of triggering the system should these points be opened.
Proximity Sensor- Triggers an event when the user gets within some specified area (within proximity) of the item. An event can also be triggered when the user leaves this area.
Shock Sensor- Detects and reacts to movements, used most commonly to dectect possible intrusions and glass breakage. Commonly adjustable to prevent false alarms.
Relays- See http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp
Hertz (Hz) - The unit of measurement for frequency. 1 Hz is equal to 1 cycle per second.
Kilohertz (kHz) - 1 kHz equals one thousand hertz or 1,000 times per second.
Joule - A unit of energy equal to one watt per second.
Volt - The unit of measure for electrical potential, Voltage- The difference in electrical potential between two points in a circuit. It's the push or pressure behind current flow through a circuit.
Watt (wattage) - A measurement of real power. The product of voltage and current in a resistive circuit.
Decibel (dB) - A unit of measurement for the ratio of loudness. The threshold of hearing is 0 dB. One dB SPL is the smallest audible difference in sound level.
Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) - A type of digital display made of a material that changes reflectance or transmittance when an electrical field is applied to it.
LED - Light Emitting Diode.
MECP - Mobile Electronics Certification Program.
Multimeter - A common term used to describe a VOM (voltage ohm meter). A multimeter usually has the ability to measure volts, resistance (ohms), and amperes or milliamperes.
Feel free to add to sources to this and other tips
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