Replacing core support.

[Joe Mason]

Hey squad, I am gathering parts to replace the radiator/core support for my 99 LX. I've seen a few OLD OLD threads here about it. I have the core support, new headlights, new splash shield, new inner fenders. I am aware the job will require a spot weld drill bit and some welding. My question is, has anyone done this work recently and if so, can you offer any insight? Such as specific problems that came up or anything wonky that might help to know ahead of time? Thanks for any input!

 

[HeX]

After a brief search, I didnt find anything too recent either. You can be the latest one to create an up-to-date thread as its clearly needed. I believe you'll need some seam sealer as well.

 

[2slo4u]

I would just add in, make sure your drill is fully charged and if you have replacement batteries and another drill, make sure they are all fully charged as well. Let your drill cool off if you feel it get too hot. The best advice I'd have to give is to make sure the drill bit is new that way it'll drill through the welds quicker. It might also be easier to have the car up on jacks at a level that is comfortable for you to sit. Wear shoes, I know a lot of guys like to wear flip flops or whatever, but a hot piece of metal on your skin is never fun. Have a big flat head or some sort of pry bar to help further break the welds.

 

[R3dline]

do you have a means of using a air compressor? if so, air drill, and air hammer would make your job 1000x better.

 

[R3dline]

oh and air grinder too, to grind down the factory welds, but if you use a grinder, you really wont even need a drill , just go in there with the air hammer and flat chizel my nizzel , and pop em right up. Im a lazy ex body man, so im giving the easy way. -thumbs up-

 

[dancam]

A drill that plugs in shouldn't overheat. My suggestion would be to bend things as little as possible, it makes it a lot easier to get it to look nice when your done. So dont drill right through, just drill the panel your takin off. Or grind it if you dont mind burning the paint. Anywhere thin if you drill stick a block of wood behind it so you dont bend it when you press on the drill. And use a stiff putty knife or thin chisel. The less bending of the panel that stays on the car you do the better. Air chisels are nice but if you have never done it before you can make a big mess in a big hurry.


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[Joe Mason]

Thanks for the replies. I've got an air drill and cordless drill. Also got two spot weld cutters. @HeX I'll try to do some documentation and take some pics. Depends mostly on if my friend comes over to help! The plan is to get it all done this Sunday.

 

[HeX]

Good luck.

 

[Joe Mason]

Work is complete. Didn't get to take many pics and fully document the work due to time constraints.
However, I can tell you I opted to replace only the lower cross member. There was about 20 spot welds holding it in place. A chisel, mallet, and angle grinder were also required. I drilled the welds out of the new part to get the lower member off and welded it to the car. Lesson learned though. You get what you pay for. The new material is super cheap. The car is together but the fitment isn't perfect. I am certain the fenders and hood are aftermarket so it's as good as it's going to get for now. Installed new headlights, rotors, pads, and did an oil change. All in all it was a successful day and a good learning experience.

 

[HeX]

Well, congrats on getting it done. Its a shame you have fitment issues. What brand did you order that feels flimsier that OEM, as you eluded?

 

[Joe Mason]

Thanks man, it was a lot of work and a very good learning experience. I got that cheap @ss support off EBay. I'm happy enough!

 

[HeX]

Ah. Then we have further confirmation of another poor quality ebay part. Learning is what this forums all about.

 

[2slo4u]

ebay doesn't have anything to do with the product. I've used ebay parts to fix front ends before and the fitment was great. The picture below is the After photo. I changed the fenders, hood, core support, and headlight.

 

[HeX]

There are plenty of unbranded eBay parts of poor quality, and I stated this part is one of them according to his experience. I did not say all parts in eBay are poor quality as thats conpletely untrue.

 

[Joe Mason]

ebay doesn't have anything to do with the product. I've used ebay parts to fix front ends before and the fitment was great. The picture below is the After photo. I changed the fenders, hood, core support, and headlight.

Yeah, I'm not implying eBay manufactures these parts. It's just a colloquial way of describing the poor quality of cheap aftermarket parts. The radiator support I bought being the example.

 

[2slo4u]

IDK if it matters much but when I look for parts, I make sure they are CAPA certified. Not saying you don't have the skill set, but many times people will just slap parts on without really paying attention to the OEM mounting positions or lining it up good. The parts I used were definitely not expensive parts nor were they OEM. They were the cheapest I could find on ebay. I know what you mean by "cheap" core supports/parts though, I've done many front end repairs and conversions and could tell the difference just by touching the part. But I guess thats part of doing things yourself and saving some $$$?

 

[Joe Mason]

IDK if it matters much but when I look for parts, I make sure they are CAPA certified. Not saying you don't have the skill set, but many times people will just slap parts on without really paying attention to the OEM mounting positions or lining it up good. The parts I used were definitely not expensive parts nor were they OEM. They were the cheapest I could find on ebay. I know what you mean by "cheap" core supports/parts though, I've done many front end repairs and conversions and could tell the difference just by touching the part. But I guess thats part of doing things yourself and saving some $$$?

Yeah, absolutely man. CAPA is nice, and a bit more $. The car is together and at least now I can secure the bumper and splash guards! Woot!