Spun rod bearing and rebuild needs to begin

[mikeM]

Ok guys I fell victim of the d16y8 rod bearing failure and need to rebuild. I would like to bum the power a bit since I have the chance I have a z6 block in my trunk given to me by a friend everything looks useable except for the pistons. I have a good start but I wanna try to release a couple of ponys from the d. I would really like to keep the price below 2k if I can. I don't wanna boost or try to push 250 hp yet cause it is my dd for now. Any input would be great guys. 98 ex coupe

 

[AlaskaB16]

I don't believe you'll gain much (if anything) from building the block alone if that's what you're wondering? FYI, A boosted Civic can easily be a daily driver.

On a side note, I may end up transferring to New Iberia next year.

 

[Failsafe88]

Hmm well you can rebuild motor for boost and start getting parts together to boost

 

[mikeM]

I was planning to boost in the future but for now I would settle for a lil beefier internals and some head work. Id say my goal for now is to have around 150 hp nithin much cause the kids and wifey ride in it too...lol

 

[AlaskaB16]

Forged internals aren't going to give you more power. They're just going to handle more power. There's nothing wrong with going boost now on a stock block as long as you have it tuned right. Family in the car isn't going to make any difference either. Just don't drive like a dumb @$$. Just because you have a 1000000 HP car, doesn't mean you have to go WOT throttle at every stop light. It's called self control man! LOL...

Don't waste your money doing NA bolt on's if you're just going to boost it later. Building for a stronger motor is wise, but it's not going to give you more power alone. Do a head gasket capable of holding boost, ARP head studs, install turbo, then go find a tuner. That should cure your need for power and keep you on an easy budget plan

 

[mikeM]

I serously wanna boost it but all the cash I have to spend is 2000

 

[mikeM]

I have to fix the motor first spun rod bearing

 

[AlaskaB16]

You know rod bearings are under $50 right? Drop the oil pan and depending on what bearing it is, you may be able to get it with out too much extra effort. I just did a z6 block tear down yesterday and was trying to see how difficult it would be to change bearings with out taking too much apart. You may have to remove the lower crank "housing thinga majig" (Yes, that's the official Honda term) to reach all the rod bearings, but it's not a hard task. Should take a few hours and maybe 4 - 6 beers on a Saturday afternoon. There's plenty of help around here to knock this baby out with out paying a dime to any shop (other than tuning after you go boost of course)

 

[JeffBel]

Bearings are easy. Drop the pan, take off the oil pickup, windage tray, girdle and take off the rod bolts. You can do it in only an hour or two. Take the spark plug out so it makes it easier to move the piston up and put the rod to the side

 

[mikeM]

So after I do the bearings I can slap in the z6crank right? Or do I need new rods too cause I thought the only difference was the z6 has 2 oil holes instead of 1. So with the left over I can bolt up a decent turbo kit and get it tuned. Should I go chrome or is there something better to use and is there a way to chip the ecu diy. Thanks for all the help guys I'm kinda new on the honda thing.

 

[JeffBel]

Not sure about the crank. I'm a b-series fool, d-series are a little confusing to me. Chrome is the cheapest route for tuning. But you have other options like Neptune and hondata.

 

[AlaskaB16]

So after I do the bearings I can slap in the z6crank right? Or do I need new rods too cause I thought the only difference was the z6 has 2 oil holes instead of 1. So with the left over I can bolt up a decent turbo kit and get it tuned. Should I go chrome or is there something better to use and is there a way to chip the ecu diy. Thanks for all the help guys I'm kinda new on the honda thing.

I have a butt load of pics I did from my z6 tear down this weekend so I can show you exactly what you're dealing with. As for tuning, CROME (no H) is something loaded to a chipped ECU and can not be changed on the fly like Hondata and others. Any good tuning shop familiar with Honda tuning can tune on CROME which should be plenty good on a stock block. When you start getting into a full on build, you'll probably want to get into Hondata which is more advanced.

 

[mikeM]

Thanks for the help guys appreciate it lots. Now all I need is a parts list and check the prices and let the build begin. Prolly wont be able to start the build till march but it gives.me a good headstart on savin my money..lol
Id really like to get rid of these heavy 18s and go with si rims or something lightweight. Dont get me wrong I like the look of em its just they rub way too much.