starting motor for first time.....

got traction

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so by the end of today i should be able to start the beast up....any tips/tricks/ideas of good things to do when you fire a new engine up for the first time??
 

Ls-HatchBoy

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make sure you have all your fluids in i guess?
 


got traction

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i ment like proper way to prime the oil pump to make sure that there is oil in the motor before we start...etc...
 


12.8:1 Ls/vtec

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Take off the coil wire or the plug wires and spin the motor over until the oil light goes off, then there is oil through the motor.
 

Going-West

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Turn the key to accesories (the 2nd one) and let the fuel pump prime, to get fuel in all the lines. That way it doesn't have to crank and crank and crank, it'll just start right up. Other than that, make sure all fluid's are topped off and bolts missing (I blew a hole in my VC doing that :smackself ), ect ect. But I'm sure you knew all that. GL, can't wait to see updates :thumbsup
 
got traction said:
so by the end of today i should be able to start the beast up....any tips/tricks/ideas of good things to do when you fire a new engine up for the first time??
check, then double check your fluids.
and, give the fuel pump a minute to pressurize the line with the key turned half way
 

Trbolvrcrx

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When I finally cranked mine I primed the motor. I cranked it up and held it at 2000 RPM's while my friend checked for leaks, coolant and oil level for about 5 min. Then I shut it down changed the oil and filter. Restarted back up held it up to 3000 RPM's for about 10 min agian checking for leaks coolant level, and oil. Then I changed the oil and filter agian. Then everything checked out, after that I went for a drive went from here to a little past atlanta (checking oil and coolant on the way), then back, checked my oil and coolant when I got back, I went ahead and changed it agian but I am crazy like that. after 500 miles was on the engine, I started getting on it, and changed my oil at the first 3000 miles. Then I installed my turbo.

BTW on a brand new engine get the cheapest non synthetic 10W30 so everything can seat correctly.
 

12.8:1 Ls/vtec

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Well, maybe not the cheapest oil, but use only conventional oil b/c of the larger molecules. Synthetic oil has smaller molecules, and might leak out of seals and will be slicker and it will take the molecules a lot longer to wear in. Thus, you may end up damaging your engine by beating on it prematurely(ha ha).
 

got traction

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Trbolvrcrx said:
When I finally cranked mine I primed the motor. I cranked it up and held it at 2000 RPM's while my friend checked for leaks, coolant and oil level for about 5 min. Then I shut it down changed the oil and filter. Restarted back up held it up to 3000 RPM's for about 10 min agian checking for leaks coolant level, and oil. Then I changed the oil and filter agian. Then everything checked out, after that I went for a drive went from here to a little past atlanta (checking oil and coolant on the way), then back, checked my oil and coolant when I got back, I went ahead and changed it agian but I am crazy like that. after 500 miles was on the engine, I started getting on it, and changed my oil at the first 3000 miles. Then I installed my turbo.

BTW on a brand new engine get the cheapest non synthetic 10W30 so everything can seat correctly.
we're breakin it in with boost, but just not going to get on it....the wastegate is currently set at 7.5psi and i have a basemap that has turned off the o2 sensor. we had a little confusion about the timing on the cam, so im waiting for a friend to come over and look at it once he gets off work. other than that i think its ready. so once cam is fixed im going to fill it up with oil (should i really use 10w30?? i bought 5w30) and hopefully crank it up with the charge pipe off. let it run for a few min, shut it down and change the oil.
 

AliasNeo

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also let it run for 15-20 min idling then shut it off and change oil with regular non synthetic oil. and do the break in period for the motor.. make sure NOT to use synthetic oil
 

Trbolvrcrx

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got traction said:
we're breakin it in with boost, but just not going to get on it....the wastegate is currently set at 7.5psi and i have a basemap that has turned off the o2 sensor. we had a little confusion about the timing on the cam, so im waiting for a friend to come over and look at it once he gets off work. other than that i think its ready. so once cam is fixed im going to fill it up with oil (should i really use 10w30?? i bought 5w30) and hopefully crank it up with the charge pipe off. let it run for a few min, shut it down and change the oil.
I would strongly recommend not breaking in your motor with the turbo installed, because if there is many metal shavings they will end up in your turbo, and that is not a good thing.

I dont see why 5w30 wont work I just used 10w30 (wal-mart brand) as long as it is not synthetic, but you need to give it some RPM's so the rings can seat properly that is the most important.
 

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Trbolvrcrx said:
I would strongly recommend not breaking in your motor with the turbo installed, because if there is many metal shavings they will end up in your turbo, and that is not a good thing.

I dont see why 5w30 wont work I just used 10w30 (wal-mart brand) as long as it is not synthetic, but you need to give it some RPM's so the rings can seat properly that is the most important.
i thought that and me and my friends came to this conclusion:::: cars that come turboed from the factory are not broken in without the turbo... :shock:
 

Trbolvrcrx

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got traction said:
i thought that and me and my friends came to this conclusion:::: cars that come turboed from the factory are not broken in without the turbo... :shock:
Thats true, however car manufacturers, are dealing with brand new blocks, that have to pass dozens of inspection and mesurement tests. I am not saying that it wont work, I am just saying that I would not do it.
 


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