ok ive got a b16 stock internals with a blox itm and a jdm itr ecu. i have a dinky narrowband afr gauge and it is pegged at rich during all driving. sometime when i come off the gas it will bounce up to mid range but then jumps back to full rich. what could cause this? ive checked all the usual suspects and found no air leaks, i just put the itm on with a hondata gasket but it was fine for a week after i did the swap, im at a lose here, HELP!
suddenly running rich
- Thread starter orioncivic
- Start date
dont use P73 ITR ecu. or buy a piggy back or a chipped ecu and tune it.
why not? it was running great for a few months till just recently, when i installed the blox itm is when my prob. started. i do have a apexi neo, i could tune it with that for now. im just waiting to save for chrome and all the stuff for that as well as a wideband afr.
what do you have the gauge hooked up to?? the o2 sensor? if so then thats why....you actually need a wideband system to make it read correctly.....hooking it up to the o2 sensor is just making it a light show lol
yeah i know bought it a long time ago but it will give u a idea of the afr correction the ecu does. meaning the way the honda ecu constantly corrects the a/f from rich to lean to obtain a balance. but it has always worked and now the gauge is peged in the rich. you can smell it too, i adjusted the a/f correction on my neo and i can change the idle quality but its not very precise and it still seems to run better with the a/f correction turned off(using as a vtec controller right now)
so my question is why is the p73 not a good ecu to use for my setup? and what would make the a/f go rich and stay rich? im leaning on the idea that the primary o2 sensor is going bad and can no longer tell the ecu what and how to correct the a/f but im not getting any codes. sorry for the long winded answers but i feel the more info i give the better you all can understand the situation.
so my question is why is the p73 not a good ecu to use for my setup? and what would make the a/f go rich and stay rich? im leaning on the idea that the primary o2 sensor is going bad and can no longer tell the ecu what and how to correct the a/f but im not getting any codes. sorry for the long winded answers but i feel the more info i give the better you all can understand the situation.
sounds like the o2 sensor might be bad....but if it was bad it should throw a check engine light.....
turned out to be the iat sensor, i had to rewire it to another location and the teminals where touching. i put some insulation between them and it works fine now. still need to get a wideband though