suggestions please

[stealthy]

ok short and sweet, i'm building my eg hatch to race.ultimate plans are ls motor with homemade turbo (not sure how much psi probably around 15...)and zex 75shot of nitrous.

what would you do first as far as turbo and nitrous goes....which one would you add first?

what mods would you do before the first upgrade (whether it be nitrous or turbo)?and then between the first and second upgrade.

basically, in what order would you build this motor and how would you mod it.i just want to hear different peoples routes to do this with this setup, i'm looking for options and what would be the best way.i also dont know much about building up a bottom end.

for reference, lets make the budget around 5-6k (without cost of motor swap) i figure around 2000-2500 for homemade turbo kit and 1000 for nitrous goodies,so leaving 2-3k for things such as pistons,cams,injectors,clutch and whatnot.

this could be fun just to see how different people could spend 5-6k on motor work

 

[Mr. Lin]

First thing's first.
Build your block.
Turbo all you want but if your motor can't stand boost, what good is it.

1. Get it sleeved
2. Get new pistons, rods, crank, etc.
3. Turbo
4. Tune turbo
5. Nitrous if neccessary

 

[Handlebars]

get the correctly sized turbo, and f**k the nitrous.

 

[evan2]

you dont need a new crank sucka, you can build a ls for boost all you want
but the ls tranny sucks plain and simple.
long gears n boost no thank you

you dont have to build the block persay, but it depends what you mean by race

you could make a nice 250whp on a stock ls block with proper fuel n tunning
if you want more power then build the block
buy turbo kit, buy fuel, buy tunning

put it on

tune it

drive

win

 

[stealthy]

handlebarsfsr : as of now, i'll be using a t3/t4 turbo but if i can get a good deal on a t66 i'll take it

i'm only doing a 55-75shot of nitrous so that i dont have to do alot of upgrading for it, yet still have that extra bang without a huge cost, i've never really been into nitrous but lately it seems as if it is an affordable way to lower your et

evan2 : eventually i'd like to ditch the ls tranny and get a gsr, however i dont know much about it just that the gsr is better, so more info on that would enlighten me

also i'm shooting for atleast 300 whp around the 12 second mark...11s would be even better heh heh

Mr. Lin : at what point should i sleeve it? a certain amount of psi before it is needed? would block posting be an ok alternative to sleeving?

 

[Handlebars]

a large t3/4 can support nearly 600 whp (think precision sc61) , a t66 is a waste, it will slow you down with all that lag. the nitrous is a waste because its a huge pain in the ass to tune with the boost, and that extra hp is far easier to get by simply pushing up the boost than adding nitrous. a stock b series bottom end is good for about 300 whp with a really good tune, however if your going to rebuild it with forged internals, theres no way you shouldnt sleeve it. get a very good tuner, and push as far as your willing to risk it.

 

[evan2]

gsr tranny has shorter gears, much better for quicker accel
you could always just get a b16 for even shorter but id still with the gsr and a lsd....

t66 yea stay away, i think a good 57 trim t3/t04e would do you good
you dont want 11s, you will need a cage

 

[Handlebars]

gsr is definitely a good tranny, but honestly, ls is really not that much longer.

Integra LS/GS/RS S80/Y80 1994-2000 B18B1 hydro no 3.23 1.9 1.269 0.966 0.714 0 3 4.266
Integra GSR 1994-2000 B18C1 hydro no 3.23 1.9 1.36 1.034 0.787 0 0 4.4

 

[stealthy]

alright, t3/t4 sounds good....what i really want to do is get the turbo running good, then start building the motor up and slowly turning the boost up more without me having to worry about damaging anything.not to mention, a stock ls and turbo pry wont be putting out over 300whp so like handlebarsfsr said, it should be ok if tuned good.

so you dont think i could go the block posting route instead of sleeving, or atleast to start with?

i think i'll hold out on trannys for a while,money is an issue and i'd rather do other things than swap trannys

and yes....i DO want 11s
a roll cage is not a good enough reason to turn me away from that, i work at a machine/fab shop so it wouldnt be too hard plus cost me probably nothing hehe

 

[Handlebars]

once you post the block.. you cant take them out really, you drill holes in the block itself. just run it stock first, then when you have the $ to build it, build it right. and if you want to drag so bad.. why not just buy something rwd with a bigger motor, it'll be far faster and cheaper than any honda drag car.

 

[stealthy]

once you post the block.. you cant take them out really, you drill holes in the block itself. just run it stock first, then when you have the $ to build it, build it right. and if you want to drag so bad.. why not just buy something rwd with a bigger motor, it'll be far faster and cheaper than any honda drag car.

well i'll still drive it on the street and all, i just like proving to people that hondas arent always slow and that they can smoke v8s and if they dont believe it i'll show em...more less bragging rights more than anything and more than wanting to drag race ya know?

 

[Mr. Lin]

Mr. Lin : at what point should i sleeve it? a certain amount of psi before it is needed? would block posting be an ok alternative to sleeving?

If you're looking for about 300whp, you should be able to get away with block guards.
However, like Mike said, if you're gonna tear your block apart, you might as well sleeve it anywho.
You might have to run something like 10-15lbs of boost, but with good timing and a nice fmu, you'll be able to pull it off. Remember, the T3/4hybrids are a decent sized turbo and don't suffer from extreme amounts of lag.

 

[evan2]

never use a block guard, any real racer will tell you not to
id do what handle said and stick with stock block about under 11lbs of boost with good fuel and tunning, trust me you will enjoy it

i would rather build the block first then put it all on then rip her apart again
might as well do it all at once, thats how i get down up to you

keep the ls tranny or even just dont get a ls ahah, you want 300whp tahts simple with a gsr and 10lbs stock internals and head
but still wont get you 11s

well if you work in a fab shop then i hope you can make a bunch of other things you need for the set up, will help you out big time
ie piping, dp hell even manifold

 

[stealthy]

yeah i'll be making all my piping for turbo and if i cant make a manifold my buddy makes tons of them (equal length ones too).