turbo h23/vtec

stealthy

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i got my h23 the other day, and got it all tore down to the bare block. my plans are to completely build it and sleeve it for turbo.oh, and its going to be a h23/vtec btw....

i'm kind of up in the air about how i should build it since i'm not running it til its completely built, however once it is, i'm going to run it until i get money for turbo.i dont want to rebuild it over and over, so i'm not real sure what i should do about pistons....get 9:1 now or something higher compression now and and get 9:1 later.how much of a difference should i expect?is there anything else that i would have to change once it comes time to turbo?

if you could, please suggest which parts YOU would put in the motor, like brands and whatnot.links and prices would be great, thanks
 

importlegions

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man i never hear about the h23 non V, can u tell me a lil about it right quick?/threadjack
 


stealthy

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importlegions said:
man i never hear about the h23 non V, can u tell me a lil about it right quick?/threadjack
i'll pm you now....

*back to topic*
 

child_racer

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sleeves, low compression pistons, thick metal headgasket, piston rings, connecting rods, Large cams with high lift/duration, dual valve springs, retainers, valves, Adjustable cam gears, port and polish, 3 angle valve job, compression test and leak down to make sure everything is set. It'll be pretty sluggish feeling until you finally boost it, but when you do, you wont be limited to stock boost (avg. of 5-8 psi)
 


stealthy

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child_racer said:
sleeves, low compression pistons, thick metal headgasket, piston rings, connecting rods, Large cams with high lift/duration, dual valve springs, retainers, valves, Adjustable cam gears, port and polish, 3 angle valve job, compression test and leak down to make sure everything is set. It'll be pretty sluggish feeling until you finally boost it, but when you do, you wont be limited to stock boost (avg. of 5-8 psi)
thanks, thats pretty much what i've gathered too, as far as parts.any brands you recommend?how much boost could i run?if i DO decide to get higher compression pistons til i turbo, when i do turbo would i need to change anything else other than pistons?

oh and what about engine management?i've yet to think about this, as i dont know much about it
 

racerx661

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so how you like my avatar
just got enlarged and feelin mighty fine
 

stealthy

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racerx661 said:
so how you like my avatar
just got enlarged and feelin mighty fine
thats nice,has nothing to do with the topic.see ya
 

child_racer

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engine management is KEY to F/I power. AEM is perf (big bucks though), GReddy E-Manage is good but only at low boost (no more than 8 psi before it starts giving you problems), and stand alone EMS will work fine.

pistons = Arias
rods = crower
valves = Skunk2
valve springs = Skunk2
retainers = Skunk2

if you go high comp. first, then you might end up boring out your block for some oversized pistons......It may take a lil more money and work to prep the block for turbo later. As far as maximum boost.....who knows. Its going to start relying on TUNING to tell you that.....but the engine will be strong for high boost conditions, lowering the probability of detonation
 

io_303

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fourdoor92 said:
thanks, thats pretty much what i've gathered too, as far as parts.any brands you recommend?how much boost could i run?if i DO decide to get higher compression pistons til i turbo, when i do turbo would i need to change anything else other than pistons?

oh and what about engine management?i've yet to think about this, as i dont know much about it
Engine management there are a couple routs you can take
MoTec
HalTech
Hondata
Do it Yourself
Zdyne
AEM
I know there are others, but this is a start
 

stealthy

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child_racer said:
engine management is KEY to F/I power. AEM is perf (big bucks though), GReddy E-Manage is good but only at low boost (no more than 8 psi before it starts giving you problems), and stand alone EMS will work fine.

pistons = Arias
rods = crower
valves = Skunk2
valve springs = Skunk2
retainers = Skunk2

if you go high comp. first, then you might end up boring out your block for some oversized pistons......It may take a lil more money and work to prep the block for turbo later. As far as maximum boost.....who knows. Its going to start relying on TUNING to tell you that.....but the engine will be strong for high boost conditions, lowering the probability of detonation
awsome,i'll just build for turbo now instead of later.what is the apexi thing?i think vafc??can you tell me about that, as i said, i'm not real knowledgable when it comes to the management of things
 

child_racer

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digital fuel controller that allows optimal fuel enrichment and VTEC engagement control.............helps you make adjustments for cases where you 'up the boost' and start running lean...you just dail in and stablize your air fuel mixture to stop premature detonation
 

stealthy

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child_racer said:
digital fuel controller that allows optimal fuel enrichment and VTEC engagement control.............helps you make adjustments for cases where you 'up the boost' and start running lean...you just dail in and stablize your air fuel mixture to stop premature detonation
ok so i should get that as well??
 

stealthy

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oh and any suggestion on cams?
 

child_racer

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those Buddy Club stage III cams kick ass in a B16, I dont know if they have 'em for the lude though. I'd stay away from JUN even though they are good, i've heard tons of stories about them snapping in N/A engines. As for the fuel computer......if you get a good EMS you'll be able to adjust your fuel maps and all through there. But if you run a less sophistocated EMS like a Hack, then yeah. It never hurts to be able to monitor and adjust your car's vitals
 

stealthy

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cool man, thanks for the help
 

Handlebars

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why didnt you make your life easy and put h23 crank in rods in a h22a block, it does the same thing and you dont have the issues associated with ls/vtec.

childracer- please, shut the f**k up. n/a high lift and duration cams SUCK for turbo- they cause nothing but problems, and you lose lots of hp.

you DO NOT want to run a very large bore on a high pressure turbo, you want the sleeves to be as thick as possible to withstand the extreme pressures of a race turbo setup.

a vafc is a shitty way to tune a stock turbo motor. it does nothing but change the vtec crossover point, and modify the map sensor signal to allow rough tuningin with larger injectors. it does NOT allow for fine adjustment, to modify the fuel maps or ignition maps, and at any more than 8 psi or so, the inability to change ignition timing creates a huge risk for detonation

what works for n/a does NOT work for turbo. skunk2 retainers are terrible, and have been reported many times over to be poor quality and to have failed, taking the whole head with them. ask buzzbombtom about retainer failure. skunk 2 parts are NOT great for tubo.

please, for the sake of the site, you dont know as much as you think you do, and givign your misinfomation is helping no one. just stop. now.
 

stealthy

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handlebarsfsr said:
why didnt you make your life easy and put h23 crank in rods in a h22a block, it does the same thing and you dont have the issues associated with ls/vtec.

childracer- please, shut the f**k up. n/a high lift and duration cams SUCK for turbo- they cause nothing but problems, and you lose lots of hp.

you DO NOT want to run a very large bore on a high pressure turbo, you want the sleeves to be as thick as possible to withstand the extreme pressures of a race turbo setup.

a vafc is a shitty way to tune a stock turbo motor. it does nothing but change the vtec crossover point, and modify the map sensor signal to allow rough tuningin with larger injectors. it does NOT allow for fine adjustment, to modify the fuel maps or ignition maps, and at any more than 8 psi or so, the inability to change ignition timing creates a huge risk for detonation

what works for n/a does NOT work for turbo. skunk2 retainers are terrible, and have been reported many times over to be poor quality and to have failed, taking the whole head with them. ask buzzbombtom about retainer failure. skunk 2 parts are NOT great for tubo.

please, for the sake of the site, you dont know as much as you think you do, and givign your misinfomation is helping no one. just stop. now.
i got a good deal on the h23, thats the reason i'm not putting the crank and rods in a h22.what cams do you suggest?as well as retainers/valves/cam gears?

as far as fuel/vtec controlling goes which is a good buy?and same thing with engine managment for my application
 

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well, before you can choose cams, you need to figure out your goals. how much hp do you want, what times, mph, etc. then you get a rough idea of the turbo you want. then you do a lot of research of people with similar setups, goals, etc, and see what works and what doesnt. i dont know what you want, so i cant give you an exact cam. i can say that crower makes a few very popular turbo specivic grinds, and their parts in general are well regarded- but i have no personal experience with any of them, as im using a stock motor for my turbo.
 

stealthy

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handlebarsfsr said:
well, before you can choose cams, you need to figure out your goals. how much hp do you want, what times, mph, etc. then you get a rough idea of the turbo you want. then you do a lot of research of people with similar setups, goals, etc, and see what works and what doesnt. i dont know what you want, so i cant give you an exact cam. i can say that crower makes a few very popular turbo specivic grinds, and their parts in general are well regarded- but i have no personal experience with any of them, as im using a stock motor for my turbo.
as crazy as it may sound, i want 10-11 seconds.this isnt a street car by any means.i will have turbo and a shot of nitrous to help spool up the turbo quicker.500whp.i'm just looking for good brands that work well with turbo and nitrous, and like you said about skunk2 not being good with turbos, thats the best kind of info i'm looking for right now, brands and what works well with my plans
 

child_racer

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handle - maybe you should read what i write a lil more closely and try to comprehend what im saying. And you mean to tell me that ITR cams which are high lift and duration cams, are shitty for turbo and cause problems?!? ......thats why 10 and 11 sec drag EK's have 'em huh :roll:
I never said the VAFC is a good way to tune or to use it with high boost situations.......but I do remeber saying AEM stand alone EMS was. (you might not have read that though) Also, I didnt mention to bore out an engine for boost, but i did mention it for his N/A build question.

you always wanna correct people........just take your time and read first
 


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