turbo parts list help

coops92hatch

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ok i hav looked at every site, sticky, and forum on the internet and hav come up with alot of good information. but basically i figured id come 2 all of you for the rest. ok so this summer wit my summer job and all i decided to go turbo and i hav a buddy that has a eclipse gst turbo that he will give me for $150. i kno all the piping and fittings and intercooler and bov imma get. but im having trouble finding a manifold to fit it. and also a downpipe. i heard u can get a hf manifold and a adapter plate which costs like $30 but i dunno where to find a hf manifold. i jus need some help on where i can get the parts i need for cheap or what car i can take it off of. i read a sticky on here bout it and they said it was a 14b turbo. but im kinda stumped on that 2. thanks for any input. and yes i did search. and found all the stuff i need but basically it was worded to hard for me.
 

rickles8099

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you can get a hf manifold off of ebay or check on homemadeturbo.com in their for sale section and see if anyone is selling one there.
 


coops92hatch

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thanks man..theres none on ebay but imma check homemadeturbo.com righ now
 

coops92hatch

u kept up....until 5k rpm
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ok...so i hav most of my parts lined up for me to buy, the turbo is a t25, wit an internal wastegate, wut is it set at stock? but neways im buying a gst downpipe that i will hav to mod for $10, and a smic for $10, from one of my buddies, im getting some charge pipes and silicon connectors for $30, and now i basically jus hav to get a fmu, manifold, and mayb an adapter plate. but as far as fuel management goes, wut would be the best way to do it for the cheapest price? i would jus think a fmu then later on in like a few weeks or w/e save a lil more money and get a safc.
 


Inigo Montoya

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uberdata is cheap. real cheap, in fact its free. then 51$ for willems burner shipped from ebay, approx. $2/chip, and another $5 for zip, jumper, and 2 resistors (1-1.2 ub). also is handy to get a $5 quick release zif... also brings the eprom up a bit higher from the other ecu components.

fmu = ghetto tune.
 

stealthy

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inigo...good hmt work =)
 

coops92hatch

u kept up....until 5k rpm
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Inigo Montoya said:
uberdata is cheap. real cheap, in fact its free. then 51$ for willems burner shipped from ebay, approx. $2/chip, and another $5 for zip, jumper, and 2 resistors (1-1.2 ub). also is handy to get a $5 quick release zif... also brings the eprom up a bit higher from the other ecu components.

fmu = ghetto tune.
ok so basically ur sayin i can buy an uberdata chip off of ebay, chip my ecu wit it, and i dont hav to do nething else to my fuel system and it will work better than an fmu? but thats all i need to do?
 

Inigo Montoya

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coops92hatch said:
ok so basically ur sayin i can buy an uberdata chip off of ebay, chip my ecu wit it, and i dont hav to do nething else to my fuel system and it will work better than an fmu? but thats all i need to do?
uberdata is a program that helps you create the timing & fuel maps. its not a chip. if you are really computer savy, you could write your fuel map in binary. Not advised.

The chips are 28 (or 32.. requires conversion) pin EPROMS. 27c256 chips work great. I just picked up some AT27c256 chips that are PLCC (32 pin, square instead of rectangle, can be burnt up to 100,000 times). Get the 28 pin one's though. I wish I would've ;) And you need 70-90 ns speed. The regular chips are UV-erasable. Meaning, you erase them with UV light.

Chipping allows you to EXACTLY tune your fuel curve and ignition map. Whereas FMU's dump extra fuel in regardless of the load (from the fuel return line). FMUs cause you to run PIG rich, and most tuners don't recommend going over 8psi with these ghetto tunes.

You need bigger injectors as well. 340's or 440/450s will work great.
Also need a better fuel pump. Walbro 255 works perfect.

Manifold: HF, HX, STD Civics/CRX's. These are two piece header designs. You only take the top manifold (leave the B-pipe). Go to your local pull-apart. HMT and Ebay are going to charge you a GRIP for this stuff. I got my HF mani for $20. Not bad.

Turbos: 14b, 15g, 19g, T3, T25, IHI, KKK all are good candidates for the D-series. Some t3/t4's work... don't get anything over .60 A/R. Also, your friend is ripping you off. I wouldn't pay more than $50 for a used turbo. Go to your pull apart... if the wheel spins freely and has no play (doesn't wiggle back and forth), then your golden. Look for Starions, Conquests, Probes, Eclipses, Talons, Volvo, Saab.... all have stock turbo cars.

Save yourself some coin and get a 1st gen DSM BOV as well.
Also save yourself $225 and get an internally wastegated Turbo.
Also also save yourself more cash by getting a used SMIC. Work great, stealthy, less plumbing, and shouldn't be more than $50.

IC piping -- jc whitney or local exhaust/plumbing shop. 16gauge.. 2" MIN/2.5" TOPS for charge piping (IC) and no larger than 3" for DP. 2.5" is plenty big for turbo D's.

Feel free to ask anymore questions.

For quality, rebuilt turbos with warranty check out www.tacomaturbo.com.

jake//MRD
 

Inigo Montoya

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DSM 450's also require a resistor box. Don't do the shitty inline resistors that some ppl do. There has been many of cases where there is too much load and the plastic/wires melt.

DSM have resistor boxes, and CRX/older Hondas also have resistor boxes. $25 tops... check eBay.


and lastly DO NOT BUY SSAUTOCHROME stuff. There turbos are s**t quality bonded together with GLUE.
 

stealthy

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wow......im......flabbergasted....
 

Andrey

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Inigo Montoya said:
DSM 450's also require a resistor box. Don't do the shitty inline resistors that some ppl do. There has been many of cases where there is too much load and the plastic/wires melt.

DSM have resistor boxes, and CRX/older Hondas also have resistor boxes. $25 tops... check eBay.


and lastly DO NOT BUY SSAUTOCHROME stuff. There turbos are s**t quality bonded together with GLUE.
u should make a writeup and mods shud make it :thumbs up sticky
 

coops92hatch

u kept up....until 5k rpm
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damn man, thanks for all that info. great write up. but ya im gettin a smic for $10 from one of my buddies, and a gst downpipe for $10 that imma hav to cut and make work, and the t25 im gettin is internally wastegated which helps out alot. but im still kinda stuck on fuel system choices. i guess imma go ahead and run a program. but im still kinda confused about the uberdata and chipping thing. i kno uberdata is a program and not just a chip, but in the second paragraph u were talking about chips. ru talking about different programs there? is there neway i can just buy a ebay chip or something that i can just run a chip and not hav to use a laptop or ne other extensive programs. im not bad with computers or nething. i just dont really wanna go into all that at the moment. so with fuel i should get a walbro 255, bigger injectors, and wut else. sry for being difficult. but thanks for all the help
 

Inigo Montoya

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yeah that will run, although its a base map and wont be nearly close to tapping all of the power out of the motor, aside from running pig-rich.

and you'll still have to chip your ecu.

actually upon closer inspection, that chip is crap. You DO NOT RUN boost on stock injectors. Sure it'll work... for a while... and when your fuel delivery system craps, it usually results in a cataclysmic catastrophe.

None of the parts that I listed have "programs" on them. The only thing that gets a "program" on it is the 27c256 chip.

when you source all your parts, you should pm me. I will see if I can find a T25 map out there (shouldn't be a problem) or I can possibly make you one. My burner is going to be here as soon as this Friday, as late as next Friday.

Again, I'll need a SPECIFIC setup though... e.g.:

d16y7 block stock pistons/rods
d16z6 head
DSM 450's etc.

Note on tuning:
Retardation is key. However, low rpm/boost retardation prevents power. Over retardation after peak tq prevents power.
 

coops92hatch

u kept up....until 5k rpm
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alright man, thanks for all of the help, i should hav all of my parts in the next few weeks so i will pm u with my mods then
 


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