Thanks for the advice and yes I'm a noob too lol but if I was to buy a used turbo I don't even know where to start also does any one have a list or link for complete list of what I need for turbo setup a long time ago someone told me they had a eagle talon turbo on there civic would that really work how would I get a manifold to fit it to my y8 plus dp I guess that's where the custom parts come uh
Droidx,97CIVIC
You really need to do a lot of research before you delve into this. Read as many articles as possible, read through forums, and continue asking questions. I'll give you some very basic information.
Basic parts you'll need:
Turbo. I'd go with a t3/t4, or a t25 (little smaller, less turbo lag). Some good name brands are GReddy, Garrett, AirResearch (subsidiary of Garrett) etc.
Wastegate (disregard if you use something like a Talon/Eclipse turbo that's internally gated). DO NOT SKIMP OUT. Go with a name brand. Pay the extra money, get the piece of mind.
Manifold (Stay AWAY from eBay mani's. You WILL regret it. Go with something like Peakboost. Ramhorns are awesome, but be prepared to spend money). This selection will depend on your build. Want A/C and Power Steering? There are manifolds that will retain that stuff. Do research.
Charge piping. You can get this off eBay, surprisingly, and they aren't bad. Just go with as many solid pieces (minimize couplers) as you can. It will be easier on you in the future.
Down pipe. Once again, check eBay, or your local exhaust shop. Get a flex pipe attached to it right before the exhaust.
Intercooler. A lot of options here. The eBay ones are surprisingly really good. If you've got the extra cheddar, you can get a Spearco, but I don't see why you would. DON'T get a giant intercooler. a 3-row is plenty for your turbo's size. If you go too big, you risk detonation.
Dump Tube. This dumps excess exhaust from the back of your wastegate out of the cabin of the car. Kind of an overlooked part.
Steel Braided Lines with A/N fittings. Do NOT overlook steel braided lines. They make a big difference, particularly if you're planning to boost over 10lbs (don't on a stock block).
Injectors. This is a bit dependent on your build. I wouldn't go any lower than 440cc. You'll want to talk to whomever is going to tune your car before you make a selection. Get this part last.
Blow Off Valve. You were waiting for this part, huh? This is a no-brainer. Make sure you get a name-brand, not a knock off. Too many horror stories of people seizing BOV's, being lazy and driving with it, getting BAD compressor surge (that CH-CH-CH-CHHH sound is NOT good), and killing their turbo. Ouch
.
Tapped Oil Pan. You can either buy a pre-tapped oil pan (I'd recommend it, as they're usually a little bigger to accommodate a quart or so more oil for your turbo), or you can tap one yourself. Once again, USE A/N FITTINGS/STEEL BRAIDED LINES.
Vacuum Block. Blox makes these, and they are very over-looked. Don't get ghetto and use a bunch of plastic T-valves to hook up your vacuum lines. Get one of the Blox ones, mount it to your firewall, and look professional. They're super easy to install, provide more than enough vacuum sources, and look nice!
There is a bit more to it, but those are the basic parts you'll want to acquire. As you do research and get these parts, you'll figure out the other things you'll need.
The absolute, hands-down MOST IMPORTANT part of any turbo'd car: The tune.
Do NOT get a pre-chipped ECU, do NOT cut cost or skimp out. Get your car dyno tuned by a professional. I'd recommend a Hondata system (which one is dependent on your budget, and your plans), and to find someone in your area familiar with tuning Hondas for boost.
DO NOT slap your turbo components on the car and just drive around. It's tempting, but DON'T do it.
Some very basic info about owning a forced induction car:
DO NOT run anything under 91 octane in the car. People do it, but you're playing with fire. Your car is going to run richer now naturally, and the turbo is going to be causing your car to burn more fuel. 91 octane is necessary for it to function properly (debatable, but I swear by it).
I would do an oil change ever 2k-2.5k miles, and always with full synthetic.
Don't go over 10lbs of boost on a stock block.
A turbo timer and boost controller are two good things to invest in, particularly if the car is your DD.
Please don't run open turbo. Put a filter, or at the very least, a screen on your turbo.
Recommendations:
These aren't crucial, but will help with the overall performance of your car, and are strongly recommended.
Go with a 3in exhaust, from downpipe back. If you can, run without a cat. If that's not an option, get a high performance, high-flow 3in cat.
If you plan on going over 10lbs, build your block! Talk to your local tuning shop (that you trust!) about this. There's a hell of a lot more that goes into it after you decide to build.
You're going to go through axles. I broke axles like every 2 months. If you can get ahold of some upgraded axles, get em.
Upgrade your brakes.
Change ALL of your gaskets (head gasket, manifold etc.) to Cometic, or something to the like. I fried several exhaust manifold gaskets using typical crush gaskets.
This is a very rough, very basic guide to getting you started in the world of boost. I'm by no means a professional, just someone trying to help you get started. Most importantly, do your research like crazy. I spent MONTHS researching before I delved into this. Good luck! PM me if you have questions.
