How To: Install Skunk2 Shifter w/ Shift Bushings

[stolibears]

This how-to involves replacing the shifter knob, stick, and the OEM rubber bushings with Polyurethane ones. I re-use the OE shifter boot, but you can add your own if you got one. Just as a warning, there are a crap load of pictures on this install so I pity the fool who is looking at this on dial up.

Application: This was done on a 2000 Civic SI. The round bushing on the extension rod is different from other models, so make sure you get the right ones for 99-00 SI bushings and not 96-00 bushings, other then that it should be the same.

Symptoms: You've had your fun with the old shifter, but now you want something with a little less throw and more feel for the car itself. Tight is better the loose...at least for this and maybe other things.

Honda mechanic says: "if it ain't made from honda, I'm not touching it. Some manual Acura Integras 94+ has dual bend shifters. Get me one and I'll install if for you for about $60 if I'm in a good mood, $80 if I'm not."

Choices:

• If you wanted to stay OEM, then find that Integra shifter, and use these instructions to kind of guide you.
• Splurge on one of the nicest 3rd party shifters and knobs out there..Skunk2. Also highly recommended is the Energy Suspension Shifter Stabilizer for the 99-00 SI.

Skill:

This is a little more involved then installing header, exhaust, or Intake, but it's not all that hard to do yourself. It took me the afternoon, but then I was taking pictures and watching TV at the same time. I estimate that it could be done in a couple of hours with the right tools.

Tools/Materials Needed:

• Socket set with an extension and 10-14mm sockets
• Some regular wrenches 10-14mm
• Zip or plastic ties (for putting the shift boot on)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Vice grips
• 4 Washers (can't remember sizes) to be used for the shifter knob but all need to be same size, 2 have to have smaller width.
• Flash light or shop light so you can see what you're doing.
• Grease; silicon if you have it, other wise lithium or polyurethane based. I had some brake grease lying around which I used which was poly based.

Skunk2 Short Dual Bend with Knob and Energy suspension Part #16.1101 for the 99-00 SI

Procedure:
PART I. INTERIOR BREAKDOWN

1. You have to take out the arm rest and the console with the shift boot. To do this you have to take all the screws out from the arm rest to the center console. I think there are 10 screws total.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. After you've taken out the arm rest, you'll need to detach the pleather boot from the plastic console. There are 2 metal tabs that are on one side and 2 screws on the other. You need to take out the screws first and then slide the boot tabs out and it should come free. At this point the boot is still attached to the shifter. Pull the boot inside out over the attached shifter knob.
   
   
   
   
   
3. Use some wire cutters or a knife to gut off the zip tie that holds the boot to the shifter knob.
   
   
   
   
   
4. Unscrew the knob from the shifter with the boot still on.
   
   
   
   
   
5. Pull off the rubber dust boot off the bottom of the shifter.
   
   

 

[stolibears]

Procedure (continued)
Part II: Removing the Extension Rod

1. If you haven't already, put your front end of the car on jack stands or ramps.
2. Look for the shiftlinkage which runs above your exhaust pipes. What your looking for is where you shift lever is attached to the Shift Rod. Match the pic below with what you are looking for.
3. Loosen the bushing bolts and the bolt connecting the shift lever to the Shift Rod. You'll need to use 2 wrenches to free up the shift lever bolt.
   
   
4. Remove the bolts
   
   
5. Remove the rubber washers/spacers
   
   
6. What it should look like once you take off the bushing bolts
   
   
7. Now go to the other end of the Extension rod and take out the bolt holding the extension rod to the Tranny.
   
   
8. Slide back to the shifter end and pull the extention rod to the floor. You may have to navitigate it past the exhaust pipe. NOTE: This maybe a little more tricky if you still have the catalytic converter with heatshields attached. This install had the heat shields already off, so if your having trouble freeing up the rod you may have to remove the heat shields first.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
9. Now work the other end (tranny end) off by taking off the concave washer first, then the rod and bushing, leaving the big flat washer on the tranny.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
10. The rod should come free, just take it out from under the car. Find a comfortable place to work cause the next steps we will be upgrading the bushings and shifter.
    
    

 

[stolibears]

Procedure (continued)
PART III: Upgrading the stuff

1. Working with the shfiter end, we need to take out the 2 bolts holding a black metal collar looking thing to get the old shifter out. This is where you need the vice grips. Use the grips to hold the flat part (top part) of the bolt down, whild you loosen the bolt underneath.
   
   
   
   
   
2. Once you have loosened it, grab the bolt using the vice grips to hold it steady while you take out the nut on the other side.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. Once you get the bolts out, the collar and the shifter should slide out.
   
   
4. Pull off the metal collar
   
   
5. LUBE TIME!!! To help prevent any tearing of the rubber boot on the shifter, grease that part good. Lube the bottom of the stick AND the rubber itself.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
6. Lube the new stick and slide that rubber peice on, just like it was on the old one.
   
   
7. Now just in reverse order, put the new shifter and collar back on the extension rod.
   
   
   
   
   
8. Take the black metal bracket attached to the bushing off
   
   
9. Lube the tip of the extension rod and pull off the old bushing.
   
   
   
   
   
10. Take out the 2 metal spacers in the old bushing and put them in the new one.
    
    
    
    
    
11. Now push the new bushing on the extension rod.
    
    

 

[stolibears]

Procedure: (continued)
PART IV: Getting the rod back on and putting it back together

1. On the other end of the extension, lube the doughnut looking bushing and push that sucker out. IMPORTANT, make sure to pay attention to which side the concave end of the bushing is, you'll need to put the new exactly like it.
   
   
   
   
   
2. More lube on the new one and push it in.
   
   
   
   
   
3. Back under the car with you and your rod. Just like you took it off, put it all back together again.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Double check to make sure the bend bends toward you.
   
   
5. This step is specific to the SKunk2 Dual bend shifter, with the bolt that you get, it comes with 2 washers that I installed with it inserted in the bearing. I'm still checking with Skunk2 to make sure this is correct.
   EDIT: 02/16/07 got an email from Skunk2 that this is the correct way for this bolt.
   
   
   
   
   
6. Since there is a slight space with the new shifter and the fork, I reused the rubber washers/spacers to make sure there wasn't any play in my shifting.
   
   
   
   With the new Skunk2 bolt that came with the shifter, you have to use an allen wrench on one side and a regualar wrench on the other to tighten the lock nut down.
   
   
7. Back on the inside of the car, put the rubber dust boot back on the bottom of the shifter. Reference Part 1, step 5.
8. I went to Lowes and picked up 4 washers that would fit on the new shifter. 2 of them were slightly wider. I put the nut on the bottom (that came with the shifter) one large washer, 2 of the smaller ones, and then another large washer. I then test fit the shifter knob on to make sure the number went the right way.
   
   
9. put the shift boot on, inside out and put the new zip ties around the washers where the 2 smaller ones are. This way the tie will tighten down on these, and the two larger ones on either side will prevent the boot from slipping off.
   
   
   
   
   
10. All DONE!! Put all the interior back together and try it out.
    
    
    
    
    Credits/Resources:
    http://www.lcounderground.com/honda_civic_transmission/honda_civic_how_to.html
    http://importnut.net/shifter.htm
    http://www.hazone.com/hshortshift.htm

This has been

 

[JohnS.]

Nicely done .

 

[Jbuck2KCivic]

Kick ass writeup, this is definently going to help when I go with the same setup this spring.

 

[stolibears]

thanks guys. I've done my good deed for CC for the year

 

[lilwhitecoupe]

thank you!

 

[ImportFan1]

nice writeup. hope to use this really soon with my single bend.

 

[Trey99EK]

Probably the best write up I have seen on this.

 

[Civic EK9]

great job!

 

[norybg3]

so whats the difference between the double bend and the single bend??? just ordered an ebay short shifter, I know not as nice as the skunk 2 but will do for me.

 

[stolibears]

so whats the difference between the double bend and the single bend??? just ordered an ebay short shifter, I know not as nice as the skunk 2 but will do for me.

it's a preference thing. dual bend puts the shifter knob a little more angled forward and the single more toward the driver. the important function of both though (for any short shifter) is you get a smaller distance shifting gear to gear.

 

[norybg3]

cool, Im definitely looking forward to use your writeup tomorrow when I get my short shifter delivered.

 

[aaren99]

Nice write up, however I'm a little confused with the 2-16-07 edit at the bottom. To clarify, you use the metal washers provided and OE rubber washers together?

 

[stolibears]

Nice write up, however I'm a little confused with the 2-16-07 edit at the bottom. To clarify, you use the metal washers provided and OE rubber washers together?

yeah, that's what I had to ask the skunk2 people about. I test fit everything the kit came with, but there was still some space left inside the fork (inside where the fork is supposed to connect to the bottom of the shifter). I probably should of used regular washers now that I think of it instead of the rubber ones to give it a tighter feel, but I was in the moment and worked with what I had. I later emailed the folks at Skunk2 about it and their response was sort like "yeah, looks right to me [whatever]" so I kept it.

 

[ImportFan1]

any idea on the torque specs on the bolts? i cant find them.

 

[stolibears]

any idea on the torque specs on the bolts? i cant find them.

I kinda guessed. I too had a hard time finding the exact torque specs so I guessed on some and used some other numbers from the other DIY referenced above. The numbers I used were 40lbs on the bolts that bolt the shift lever collar to the chassis. 18-20 lbs for the bolt that holds the linkage to the tranny, and the rest was just bolted until tight and made a judgment call in making sure it wasn't going to come off, but not too tight that it would be impossible to unscrew either.

 

[Matt.]

there is no need to remove the shift boot zip tie, I don't know why you even say to do so.

 

[RedLine42]

Good write up, It took me about 2 hours one night to install my Skunk2 single bend and im 17 and it wasent as hard as installing my exhaust due to a s**t load of rust.