I was told it was a $1500 amp
That is definitely a nope, nothing PG makes right now carries that type if price. Tantrum is the bottom of their line. I think the 1200.1 goes for 600 buxs
High Output Alternator Question, I Keep Blowing Amps!!
- Thread starter Jasdip
- Start date
That is definitely a nope, nothing PG makes right now carries that type if price. Tantrum is the bottom of their line. I think the 1200.1 goes for 600 buxs
but still thats a nice amp^^^^
it shouldnt be doing what its doing.....i say rewire it all.......they must have somethen f**kin up and grounding out or something.....what size fuse are you running to your battery from the power wire?
it shouldnt be doing what its doing.....i say rewire it all.......they must have somethen f**kin up and grounding out or something.....what size fuse are you running to your battery from the power wire?
They are dual 2 ohm voice coil subs....I've been through several amps such as...Kaption 700.1, Kaption 250.2, Phoenix Gold Xenon 1200.1, Pheonix Gold Tantrum 1200.1....each one has blown at least once...
I took it to a guy from another shop (recommended to me by one of the guys at the shop i got my stuff done from)...and he told me that i would either have to switch to a 4ohm load, or upgrade my alternator/battery/1 guage wire from battery....the second option he said would prob cost me about $2000 which i am not willing to spend....it'd rather buy sum rims and switch the system to 4ohms....only problem is, he can't o anything until me amp is back from repair again which is like 8 weeks
I took it to a guy from another shop (recommended to me by one of the guys at the shop i got my stuff done from)...and he told me that i would either have to switch to a 4ohm load, or upgrade my alternator/battery/1 guage wire from battery....the second option he said would prob cost me about $2000 which i am not willing to spend....it'd rather buy sum rims and switch the system to 4ohms....only problem is, he can't o anything until me amp is back from repair again which is like 8 weeks
A while ago, one of my subwoofers blew out (voice coil blew)...my car was filled wit smoke etc. anyways...that sub was replaced under warranty; however, do you think since both of my subs are wired in series that the other one that wasn't replaced would be damaged as well.. and is now causing the amplifier to blow?? Someone told me that at certain frequencies the voice coil in the other sub might be vibrating the wrong way and shorting something and causing the amp to blow...could this be true? Personally, it makes sense to me that if one were to get totalled, the other one was very close to being totalled as well but just survived but may still have issues...if there is any way to prove this, i may be able to get that one replaced too..
you should test all the individual coice coils to make sure they are 2-2.6 ohms. Then check the overall impedance load at the amp by putting the multi meter on the wire at the amp. The positives on the positives and the negatives on the negatives, This load should also be 2
Hey man I love subs and amps, I get into reasearching them and just saw your post about the amp... check your speakers and make sure they are at the proper ohm level. By that i meancheck the wires on the actual subs. I have a hiphonics 1600 watt 07 nedition with polk momo 3thou watt rms and they bridged down to 1 ohm and my amp is one ohm stable I have 4 guage leading to the amp you might want to go w another amp of possibly changing that 10 guage to get more juice to your amp. if the wires on the back of your subs are wired black to the black on the opposite side then red to red with separate wires leading off of the pos and neg to your actual supply that the amp hooks to<<< the thing your wires go into on the outside your box >>>> then they might not have realized they took your 2 ohm stable to one ohm due to the way they wired the speakers might holla at me if you have any questions kinda confusing
Hey this is how the subs are wired...I beleive they're wired at 2ohms, and the tantrum amp is 2ohm stable...The wire running from the battery to the amp is 4 guage...
Both of the reds connect together into the amp's postive, and both of the blacks connect into the amp's negative..
By jasdip_1 at 2007-06-25
Alrighty,,,,,
So lets go over this.
Your blowing the amp cuz that box is crap.
Situation #1. They have the setting on the deck right and the phase on the deck is reversed. The subs in that particaler system need to fire backwards. They are not great for output just showing off. So with the limited output you are turning the volume up to get more bass, thus bottoming out the woofer damaging woofer and amp.
Plus I have a feeling even though it is wired up at 2 ohms it is dropping way below that threshhold in true impedence because of the box design.
Who told you to put those subs like that anyways? That is not they enclosure to use to get a decent bass response. Flip those subs into the box and fix it.
So lets go over this.
Your blowing the amp cuz that box is crap.
Situation #1. They have the setting on the deck right and the phase on the deck is reversed. The subs in that particaler system need to fire backwards. They are not great for output just showing off. So with the limited output you are turning the volume up to get more bass, thus bottoming out the woofer damaging woofer and amp.
Plus I have a feeling even though it is wired up at 2 ohms it is dropping way below that threshhold in true impedence because of the box design.
Who told you to put those subs like that anyways? That is not they enclosure to use to get a decent bass response. Flip those subs into the box and fix it.
I bought my system and got it installed "professionally" at the same time...the guys who were installing it told me to install it this way because it looked nice and would produce better/more bass inside the car...I have TONS of output from the subs...that isn't an issue at all....I do keep my volume pretty high...but thats because I have stock speakers inside...but at the same time, the gain from the deck is between 0 and +2 max (out of +/- 6 total) for the subs...also, at lower volumes, i still get a lot of output from the subs and after a certain point while turning the volume up, i can't even notice the bass gettin louder, only the speakers...
There is a setting on my deck that indicates that the subs are reversed or normal....should I be setting that to reversed? The installers said it didn't matter
and the output sounds about the same...I have the DEH-P8MP deck...Hey guys, I got my hands on a multimeter and tested the resistance on the connection...Also, my amp should be reinstalled on Friday so I can do tests with it after that..
I tested all the voice coils on the subs and I got a reading of 2ohms...I even checked the reading at where the amp is suppose to be (checked the wires) and the reading is 2ohms down there as well That can't be the problem...Is there something that I should check after I install the amp back in like the resistance while the subs are producing output or is that not possible?
Also, I looked for where the amp is grounded; however, the ground wire just goes down underneath my rear seats and dissapears...I know how to take out the back parts of the rear seats but not the bottom part that you sit on, does it just lift out after?
I tested all the voice coils on the subs and I got a reading of 2ohms...I even checked the reading at where the amp is suppose to be (checked the wires) and the reading is 2ohms down there as well
That can't be the problem...Is there something that I should check after I install the amp back in like the resistance while the subs are producing output or is that not possible?Also, I looked for where the amp is grounded; however, the ground wire just goes down underneath my rear seats and dissapears...I know how to take out the back parts of the rear seats but not the bottom part that you sit on, does it just lift out after?
The problem is that the subs are 2 ohms when wired. Impedance changes as the woofers move. By firing them into the box you cover any and all distortion. Box"s with reversed subs are meant for show, not output. If you flip those subs around I bet you will find that you will acheive the same amount of bass you have now using less overall power from the amp. Thus not overdriving it and burning it up. You may have got it done at a shop, but by no means is that a professional install. I am not trying to bash it, only trying to help with the situation of your amps. For your listening habits those subs should be in a ported or sealed enclosure. The fact that you haver gone through soo many amps should be an indication to the installersthat there is something going wrong on the outputs of the amp. Adding a second fuse was completely unnecessary.
My advice, insist they flip the subs. set the sub out to normal not reversed. The setting now should be reversed in that partuclar set up as it is now.
The subs job is to move air. Right now your bass is being created through negative energy vs positive. The subs are firing into a sealed enclosure, filling that enclosure up with pressure making the woofers and the amp work harder. Thus blowing out the outputs.
My advice, insist they flip the subs. set the sub out to normal not reversed. The setting now should be reversed in that partuclar set up as it is now.
The subs job is to move air. Right now your bass is being created through negative energy vs positive. The subs are firing into a sealed enclosure, filling that enclosure up with pressure making the woofers and the amp work harder. Thus blowing out the outputs.
Normal is the subs are moving foward. Firing into the the box. You may still hear bass, but thats not right at all. Reverse is reverse polarity, which means your subs will move backwards, technically that is how that set up is to be ran. The risk is bottoming out your subs. Slamming the voice coil into the bottom of the motormechanism. The set up is not right for you at all at the volumes you are listening to it at all