how much is this costing u anyways
Petey Peeeeeeete v2.0 (56K Step Carefully)
- Thread starter Genuine Rolla
- Start date
Genuine Rolla
Its PETEY PETE, y0!
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its all done...i'm picking it after work today. Wheels got delivered so as soon as i'm out of work, i'm heading to where it is, taking off all the tape, putting the headlights and taillights back on, mirrors, sideskirts, etc. and then go get the wheels mounted.
)Genuine Rolla
Its PETEY PETE, y0!
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Its all done but I have some more work to do. Since I didn't have enough light on the sides of the car, I thought i had two good even coats on the doors etc. When I pulled it out of the garage yesterday evening, I saw spots that I didn't get completely so I gotta re-do the doors over and whatn0t 
I'm not stopping till I get it right. Oh..and I got tons of orange peel..mainly because I didn't have the gun set right and I didn't really know how to lay down the clear. I ended up running out of paint just as I was able to cover the whole car with color. I'll get some pics up this afternoon after I get the wheels mounted and put on the car so you guys can see what i'm talking about. Let it be known...this paint job will come out decent...I am determined....
I'm not stopping till I get it right. Oh..and I got tons of orange peel..mainly because I didn't have the gun set right and I didn't really know how to lay down the clear. I ended up running out of paint just as I was able to cover the whole car with color. I'll get some pics up this afternoon after I get the wheels mounted and put on the car so you guys can see what i'm talking about. Let it be known...this paint job will come out decent...I am determined....
Genuine Rolla
Its PETEY PETE, y0!
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i'll have pics to show ya guys, it really looks horrible
I'm thinking about just taking it to a shop, drop it off and tell 'em to fix it....
I'm thinking about just taking it to a shop, drop it off and tell 'em to fix it....
Means u should'a let me paint it.
Genuine Rolla
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yeah, I just might..I dunno, I just want it done at this point.
yea doggy i told ya the most stressfull part is clearing, if u have the funds go ahead and try to re- clear it but take off the doors dude its a whole lot easier! did u do a 75% overlap? Don't give up u did all that work to go take it to a shop they will laugh at ya and even charge u more to fix the mistakes!
not bad progress.....you need to get a y8 mani on that thing
Genuine Rolla
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Teaser On Page 1
Okay, it is funny to watch people do amateur body work and painting. I just got back from competing in the national level of collision repair in VICA. I won the state and placed 5th in the nation so not too bad. That really doesn't tell you how much I know or how well I can do things. Tell me what products you are using if you don't mind.
Clear?
Base?
Primer?(also, is it laquer(crap) or is it a urethane 2k primer)
Also, allow proper flash time and if the paint is metallic, which it is, open your spray pattern a little more an back off to about 7-8 inches from the panel so the mottling doesn't look too bad and so the metallic doesn't streak. Also, how is the temp of where you are painting. By just guessing, it is pretty hot. So I'd say go with a slow hardener/reducer b/c it will tend to melt in better and dryspray less with your clearcoat. But be warned, this will make it more apt to run also. Which type of clear did you buy. Is it a spot clear or an all over clear. And sorry to burst your bubble on your "dried" coat wording. It is called a "guide" coat, makes more sense doesn't it. At least that is what all the products that they have on the market are calling it and what I have called it for years. Also, let your paint flash about 10 minutes between coats and 20-30 minutes before spraying clear. One last tip being as though you are not spraying in a controlled booth, is that if the temperature and humidity added together equal 180, most paint manufacturers recommend you don't paint or add more flash time between coats.
Clear?
Base?
Primer?(also, is it laquer(crap) or is it a urethane 2k primer)
Also, allow proper flash time and if the paint is metallic, which it is, open your spray pattern a little more an back off to about 7-8 inches from the panel so the mottling doesn't look too bad and so the metallic doesn't streak. Also, how is the temp of where you are painting. By just guessing, it is pretty hot. So I'd say go with a slow hardener/reducer b/c it will tend to melt in better and dryspray less with your clearcoat. But be warned, this will make it more apt to run also. Which type of clear did you buy. Is it a spot clear or an all over clear. And sorry to burst your bubble on your "dried" coat wording. It is called a "guide" coat, makes more sense doesn't it. At least that is what all the products that they have on the market are calling it and what I have called it for years. Also, let your paint flash about 10 minutes between coats and 20-30 minutes before spraying clear. One last tip being as though you are not spraying in a controlled booth, is that if the temperature and humidity added together equal 180, most paint manufacturers recommend you don't paint or add more flash time between coats.
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Petey already got all that info from me but i think he apprecaite it anyway! O what state u in and what school u go to? I didn't make this years competition but i will next year holla!
dude those look like the gunmetal version to my old rims! Are they 16's grids or raze? Looks good dupe car look like it came out cool wait six months to really wax and buff that bad boy and she will look flawless!