car just wont accept boost

[BoostinEX]

hey guys, I started the thread of having my car in the shop for over 4 weeks... I think I'm up at like 6 now but in my mind I dont even have a car anymore, I'm just so used to it. Anyway, the problem they are having NOW, is the car just doesnt like boost. It's tuned with apexi, they have tried tuning it all over the place they said but still no luck. Heres the issue: After it gets a little boost, it just trips out the motor and it starts to run like s**t and you have to shut the car off and turn it back on in order to drive it any farther. They cant seem to figure it out, I mean I know the car obviously doesnt like the boost, but it doesnt really seem to be a problem for anyone else. It's only a Garrett T25 so its not even producing much boost, it happens when the boost barely hits too.

Any ideas? Thanks for everyones time I apprciate it, as I need all the help I can get.


CJ

 

[Steven.]

apxi what? if its a hack of anysort, get rid of it for a chipped ECU or standalone

 

[xxsenceo89x]

map sensor?

 

[ryan89crx]

map sensor?

ding ding ding, i believe we have a winner!

 

[Steven.]

the hack isnt helping any

 

[got traction]

ding ding ding, i believe we have a winner!

 

[Phantom Civic]

map sensor?

That is the ABSOLUTE answer. We're not saying that yours is bad but that Honda map sensors will not accept boost.

An option that you could have is a missing link or check valves, but I wouldn't suggest it.

Take your car to a shop who knows what they are doing, because at the rate they're going you won't have a car after you get it back for long.

 

[slowhatch]

mine would do the same thing but would throw a code and run like s**t. i fixed it with a missing link.

if you do have an afc, make sure you dial in the fuel and get a msd timing master or your car is going to be dog slow out of boost, because you will have to manually retard the dizzy to prevent detonation.

your car wont make as much power with the afc than it would with hondata or a chipped ecu, BUT you can run it with the afc for awhile until you get it chipped or the hondata unit. since my build is getting financed i might do a comparison dyno between the afc and crome/hondata (still haven't decided).

 

[BoostinEX]

if I shouldnt do a missing link then what should I do? I guess I have my share of reading to do.

The owner of the shop says it's because the internal wastegate wont go lower then 10 psi and thats just too much for the motor so its tripping it out. He said its fine at 6psi its just when it gets really high that it does that. But I know that when I was driving it, it was dying out at less then that, hell I never came close to 6psi, never had a chance.

It's tuned with a Apexi II its a $300 dollar part....I thought that was the way to go when tuning????


Thanks for the help guys, take it easy everyone, happy boosting

 

[slowhatch]

if I shouldnt do a missing link then what should I do? I guess I have my share of reading to do.

The owner of the shop says it's because the internal wastegate wont go lower then 10 psi and thats just too much for the motor so its tripping it out. He said its fine at 6psi its just when it gets really high that it does that. But I know that when I was driving it, it was dying out at less then that, hell I never came close to 6psi, never had a chance.

It's tuned with a Apexi II its a $300 dollar part....I thought that was the way to go when tuning????


Thanks for the help guys, take it easy everyone, happy boosting

what gear are you trying to boost in? before my missing link if i tried to build boost in 3rd, or higher, it would cut out at about 2psi.

 

[BoostinEX]

mine would do the same thing but would throw a code and run like s**t. i fixed it with a missing link.

if you do have an afc, make sure you dial in the fuel and get a msd timing master or your car is going to be dog slow out of boost, because you will have to manually retard the dizzy to prevent detonation.

your car wont make as much power with the afc than it would with hondata or a chipped ecu, BUT you can run it with the afc for awhile until you get it chipped or the hondata unit. since my build is getting financed i might do a comparison dyno between the afc and crome/hondata (still haven't decided).

But I have read so much online of so many people using AFC's, Why wont it work? Is it necessary to get a hondata then?

 

[slowhatch]

But I have read so much online of so many people using AFC's, Why wont it work? Is it necessary to get a hondata then?

it Will work. as i stated before it wont make as much power and, if not dialed in correctly, will cause damage to your engine.

 

[BoostinEX]

what gear are you trying to boost in? before my missing link if i tried to build boost in 3rd, or higher, it would cut out at about 2psi.

doesnt seem to matter, I know I had some trouble in 5th gear on the freeway and just driving around town maybe in the higher gears 3rd-4th-5th as you said. Well It sounds like I should get this missing link thing then?

Thanks

 

[slowhatch]

doesnt seem to matter, I know I had some trouble in 5th gear on the freeway and just driving around town maybe in the higher gears 3rd-4th-5th as you said. Well It sounds like I should get this missing link thing then?

Thanks

yeah, the missing link will sort of solve the problem. its called a band-aid fix since the correct way to fix it would be to get a 2.5 bar map sensor and chip your ecu blah blah blah, but what it sounds like is your itching for boost like i was.

just be careful because its very easy to blow your engine especially since the ecu cant see the boost and since your engine isnt tuned to 4th and 5th gear (i've been told the ecu advances timing in those 2 gears).

 

[BoostinEX]

Interesting, this is all news to me. I just searched for a 2.5 map sensor on ebay and I cant find any for really all that much money? Should I assume these are knock offs or are they really just under 100 bucks? Thanks again for your help! Just trying to get back to focusing on school and such.

*nods*

 

[got traction]

get a 3bar map sensor and call it a day...then get something to really tune your car with...not just some half ass hack

 

[mike@synapse]

the problem isnt the map sensor iteself. the map sensor can read up to 10psi without any issues. the problem is the stock honda ecu cannot do anything with figured above 0 psi.

if you want to get the job done right you need a chipped obd1 ecu and a professional tune. it seems pretty obvious that there is no missing link and the stock honda ecu is freaking out not the engine. it sounds like the shop the car is at doesnt have a clue about turbocharging hondas.

an safc is meant for minor fuel adjustments for n/a cars or already boosted cars. when you turbocharge a honda you need to remap the entire ecu for a safe and accurate tune.

 

[mike@synapse]

Interesting, this is all news to me. I just searched for a 2.5 map sensor on ebay and I cant find any for really all that much money? Should I assume these are knock offs or are they really just under 100 bucks? Thanks again for your help! Just trying to get back to focusing on school and such.

*nods*

a real gm 3 bar map sensor is about 75-85 dollars, and most 2.5 bars are similar. but like i said above its not the map sensor itself that is the problem, its the ecu that cant do anything with positive values.

 

[bizoneoeh]

if I shouldnt do a missing link then what should I do? I guess I have my share of reading to do.

The owner of the shop says it's because the internal wastegate wont go lower then 10 psi and thats just too much for the motor so its tripping it out. He said its fine at 6psi its just when it gets really high that it does that. But I know that when I was driving it, it was dying out at less then that, hell I never came close to 6psi, never had a chance.

It's tuned with a Apexi II its a $300 dollar part....I thought that was the way to go when tuning????


Thanks for the help guys, take it easy everyone, happy boosting

Of course it's your map sensor and if the people at the garage you have your car at can't figure that out then I suggest you get your car the f**k out of there. They should even know how to solve your problem, here's how I solved my map sensor problem....


All I did is added som one way check valves to the vacume line to the map sensor. The check valves are from a fish tank and you can buy them at any pet store It only cost me a few bucks and I haven't had ANY problem since I added them. I'm only running 8psi with a DSM 14b turbo with an internal wg. Don't waste your money on a missing link, I bought two different ones and they bothe failed.



I know it's ghetto but it works

 

[BoostinEX]

Thanks for the help guys, I guess I'll just lose out on 2 grand and go back to stock I cant afford any more parts let alone an ecu. Thanks again