b18b1 turbo build

the mooch

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dismantling of the b18 has begun, and now it's time to start to think about ordering some better parts. my goal is to build a fun, quick, reliable, daily driven turboed vehicle. my question is what internals are going to need to be changed out to achieve this? i'm not looking to run 500+ hp. and to be honest, i don't know how much boost i plan to run. is it necessary to put in new valves, pistons, springs, retainers and cams? as of right now my shopping list includes:

BDL fuel rail
MSD wires
ARP rod bolts
NGK plugs
BDL block guard
Buddy Club timing gears
BDL fuel pressure regulator
Venom injectors

what else should i add to the list of "to-do's"? the motor will be going in an EG civic.

thanks
 

senatE

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if your not building for high boost you dont really need a block gaurd. and you need arp head studs
 


FRODO

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dismantling of the b18 has begun, and now it's time to start to think about ordering some better parts. my goal is to build a fun, quick, reliable, daily driven turboed vehicle. my question is what internals are going to need to be changed out to achieve this? i'm not looking to run 500+ hp. and to be honest, i don't know how much boost i plan to run. is it necessary to put in new valves, pistons, springs, retainers and cams? as of right now my shopping list includes:

BDL fuel rail
MSD wires
ARP rod bolts
NGK plugs
BDL block guard
Buddy Club timing gears
BDL fuel pressure regulator
Venom injectors

what else should i add to the list of "to-do's"? the motor will be going in an EG civic.

thanks
Drop the fuel rail and block gaurd and go for some better injectors from RC. Valve train is always a plus for FI and would greatly prolong the life of the engine and its reliability.
 

civicsi94

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I agree with what is said, it comes down to peace of mind and how much you are willing to spend. you can have a fully built motor and not be content or have a semi-built motor and be happy. IMO. do some headwork and look into but only if you are serious about the bottom end. only if you are power junkie may crank the boost here and there hehe but seriously. looks good. some minor tweaking and you are set. keep doing your homework one parts
 


the mooch

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so drop the fuel rail, but what about an adjustable FPR? and i've been trying to figure out if those block guards are really worth it. anyone running one or have any opinions? and what about pistons, rods, rings, valves, springs and retainers? i've been spending alot of time at the NOPI online store and looking at all the measurements for pistons and rods and such gives me a migrane. are forged pistons going to be a smart buy for what i'm trying to accomplish? and if so, what the hell measurements should i go with?
 

jason_guy_yeah

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Tell you what, if you plan on doing 300 hp or less. Stock internals are fine, a very good tune is the most inportant. And please!, chip your ecu with hondata, uberdata or what ever the tunner specifies.
 

Billy.

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all good advice in this thread.

FYI my ls/vtec turbo made 260whp on 6lbs of boost with stock compression and 87 pump gas, and its sooo much fun to drive. shooting for 280+ on 8lbs later this week, and maybe a 10lb tune later this year
 
Last edited:

ryan89crx

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so drop the fuel rail, but what about an adjustable FPR? and i've been trying to figure out if those block guards are really worth it. anyone running one or have any opinions? and what about pistons, rods, rings, valves, springs and retainers? i've been spending alot of time at the NOPI online store and looking at all the measurements for pistons and rods and such gives me a migrane. are forged pistons going to be a smart buy for what i'm trying to accomplish? and if so, what the hell measurements should i go with?
adjustable FPR isnt necessary as well...

what are your hp goals? that will help a lot with advice people are going to give you
 

the mooch

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5+ Year Member
my hp goals are to be around the 300-350 mark. i stopped by a shop tonight that deals with turbos and motor swaps and the dude told me to raise compression to 10:1, forged rods/bolts, skunk 2 intake manifold (or similar), high flow injectors, 225 fuel pump, and to upgrade the valve springs/retainers. he also said that stock valves are rated to 500hp. does any of this sound accurate? i figured i would replace the valves anyways since i would be right there with some titanium ones. but i was under the impression that turbos needed lower compression. stock is 9.2:1.....think this dude is full of it?
 

ryan89crx

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my budget b18b1 build would be:

Eagle rods
SRP pistons - 9.0ish compression
stock head/cams/IM
OEM bearings/seals
OEM HG
ARP headstuds
tubular manifold
.63 a/r 57trim t3/t4
big ebay fmic
chipped ecu running Crome Pro
550-650cc injectors
2.5bar map sensor
255lph fuel pump

should be able to hit that goal pretty easy. sohc guys can 400hp that snail around 25psi, an LS will make that with less boost
 


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