Its pretty easy Trunks but the gaps need to be perfectly within spec.. Which isnt too hard even when the valves predictably move out of spec when there tightened up.how do you do a valve adjustment on a d15b2?? and what do i need to do the valve adjustment
great info man!Its pretty easy Trunks but the gaps need to be perfectly within spec.. Which isnt too hard even when the valves predictably move out of spec when there tightened up.
Heres a detailed howto for 6th gens: http://www.georgebelton.com/6g.civic.tech/valve.clearance/index.php
Specs for valve lash are different if you drive something else. Get a helms manual and your good to go just take your time and realize this stuff is moving fast so if something isnt on right it could mean death for your engine.
Do you have another link? This one ^^ is dead.Its pretty easy Trunks but the gaps need to be perfectly within spec.. Which isnt too hard even when the valves predictably move out of spec when there tightened up.
Heres a detailed howto for 6th gens: http://www.georgebelton.com/6g.civic.tech/valve.clearance/index.php
Specs for valve lash are different if you drive something else. Get a helms manual and your good to go just take your time and realize this stuff is moving fast so if something isnt on right it could mean death for your engine.
Download the 96-00 Civic manual at either link in my signature.Do you have another link? This one ^^ is dead.
Which section is valve adjustments under. I have a hard time finding the sections as it is since the book has so many pages.Download the 96-00 Civic manual at either link in my signature.
Chapter 6: Cylinder Head/Valve TrainWhich section is valve adjustments under. I have a hard time finding the sections as it is since the book has so many pages.
So not retorquing wouldn't mess up the timing? I should just leave it alone when I'm done, adjusting the valves?It's unnecessary to retorque the crank bolt after a valve adjustment because the bolt is on soooooo tight, making it very unlikely to come loose.
When you adjust the valve clearances, you must turn the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise (CCW) from the crank bolt. As turning the bolt CCW has a remote potential to loosen the bolt, the manual is warning you that the bolt could come loose. In reality, the dreaded crank bolt is so damn tight that you are as likely to be struck by lightning as you are to loosen the crank bolt while turning the crank pulley to adjust the valve clearances.So not retorquing wouldn't mess up the timing? I should just leave it alone when I'm done, adjusting the valves?
Gotcha. But eventually, after various valve adjustments, it would need retorquing, I assume.When you adjust the valve clearances, you must turn the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise (CCW) from the crank bolt. As turning the bolt CCW has a remote potential to loosen the bolt, the manual is warning you that the bolt could come loose. In reality, the dreaded crank bolt is so damn tight that you are as likely to be struck by lightning as you are to loosen the crank bolt while turning the crank pulley to adjust the valve clearances.
Again, highly unlikely. When you eventually need to remove the crank bolt to replace the timing belt, you will see how tight that bolt is. You will work VERY hard to loosen it.Gotcha. But eventually, after various valve adjustments, it would need retorquing, I assume.